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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    23
    Hi,

    We're having a new Trane heatpump system put in in our vacation home. He're the specs that we've been given bids on:

    Heat pump - #2TWX4036A;
    Air Handler #TWE040E13F;
    New lineset;
    Non-programmable digital thermostat;
    R22 refrigerant.

    I think we're getting a reasonable deal from a reputable installer, IMO. Any hits or recommendations on this system?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Seabeck, WA
    Posts
    1,870
    Sounds good to me. 3 ton. I'd get a programmable stat, though.
    Live for yourself and ask no one to live for you.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Rochester, MN
    Posts
    5,304
    Lot of us do not suggest program/set back on heat pump, so stay with that.

  4. #4
    Senior Tech Guest
    Advice...learn how the system operates and start thinking about questions now...you'll have a bunch after it's been in operation.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    278
    Hey Chrisva, good brand choice. I just wanted to ask you a question. Is the A/H going to be installed vertical in a garage,closet or basement or is it going horizonal in an attic? The reason I ask is because I assume that the home is going to go long periods being unoccupied. My concern is with clogged drain situations and water damage while no one is around. Just make sure that you stress to the installers that all the precautions are taken pertaining to overflows... Ie.,aux pan,if horizonal, is leveled properly and the float switch is located at the lowest point. Sounds pretty basic, but I have seen this overlooked.The float switch is placed in the middle of the pan and the pan is set up so that it has a low point that just keeps dumping water into the ceiling because the unit never shuts off. If its vertial in a closet and a condensate pump is used, have them make sure that the secondary safety switch is actually hooked up to shut the system down in the event the pump fails. Also, make sure an additional safety device(SS2 or equivelent) is placed in the aux drain outlet next to the main outlet. This will ensure you have no surprises when starting your vacation. Nothing can be totally foolproof, but checking into what I suggested will make it that much more unlikely you will have any unexpected floods.......l8r

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SW FL
    Posts
    5,990

    Thumbs up Enhancements

    Originally posted by chrisva
    ... a new Trane heatpump system put in in our vacation home. - 2TWX4036A; TWE040E13F; New lineset;
    Non-programmable digital thermostat; R22 refrigerant.

    I think we're getting a reasonable deal from a reputable installer, IMO. Any hits or recommendations on this system?
    EXCELLENT choice ... however, for just a little more $:
    Review higher SEER R-410A heat pump if you think this may be a future retirement home,
    I.E. 4TWX6036A
    http://www.trane.com/residential/pro...mps/xl16i.aspx

    Look into 10-year Parts & Labor Warranty

    In a humid climate,
    the A/C needs to run on a humidistat
    at ~56% and ~ 82'F when no one is there.

    Summer energy cost/month might be in the range of
    $30 for 3 or 4 months. Need any specific additional info? .. write me.

    [Edited by dan sw fl on 01-29-2006 at 08:10 AM]
    Designer Dan
    It's Not Rocket Science, But It is SCIENCE with "Some Art". ___ ___ K EEP I T S IMPLE & S INCERE

    Define the Building Envelope and Perform a Detailed Load Calc: It's ALL About Windows and Make-up Air Requirements. Know Your Equipment Capabilities

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Rochester, MN
    Posts
    5,304
    I agree with Dan, look into the 10 years/labor warranity. Will give you a peace of mind.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    23
    Thanks for all of the responses. RE your specific questions, the AH is going in a closet, where the original one was, on the lowest floor of the house, and there is going to be a drain pan with float switch - forgot to mention that. It will be vertically mounted.

    We considered the programmable thermostat, but didn't go with it because when we, or other family, are there, the place is occupied for that time-frame (in other words, not a regular go to work/come home, schedule). And, the house is unoccupied for large periods of time, when the heat is simply set-back, or AC set "up." We will look at the humidstat, though, as the house is in a very humid coastal climate.

    About the R22 - both installers that gave us bids don't like it, b/c of the higher pressures involved, and they don't think there will be a problem with finding R22. Although finding R22 shouldn't be an issue, anyway, if the system is installed properly so there are no leaks. I didn't realize that we would get a higher SEER with R410, though, versus R22, for the same equipment. Does it make sense to go with the R22?

    What is a good setback temperature for heating and cooling when the house is unoccupied? We've always done 55 for heat, and 80 for cooling.

    Finally, what about running the fan in continuous mode to help with evening the temperatures out in the house. I've been reading that doing this reintroduces moisture from the coil back into the house when the compressor is not on, but doesn't the fact that the AH will run on low when there is no call for heating or cooling mitigate this somewhat?

    Thanks again...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    small island in the Pacific Ocean
    Posts
    558
    "both installers that gave us bids don't like it, b/c of the higher pressures involved"

    Installers that are afraid of 410a scare me a whole lot more than 410a




  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
    Posts
    33,392
    Unless it is very warm out or you have a grossly oversized pump, setbacks with a heat pump can cost more than they save. I don't care how "smart" the stat is, if the temp is near, at or below the balance point, it is IMPOSSIBLE for the pump alone to warm you back up. It can't be done through some will say theirs does it even in bitter cold temps.

  11. #11
    htingky Guest
    when R22 is phasing out, where will you get it?
    R 410 is the best way to go and the higher pressures are no big deal, its very simple to work on and it will dehumidify a lot better.
    Use a thermidistst type non prog and it will help immeasurably

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
    Posts
    33,392
    R22 will be made til 2020, available in recycled form for years after that, longer than a heat pump will be around. There are dropins available that work and probably better ones coming soon. I have no problems working with R410a, but don't feel it is time to write off R22 systems.

  13. #13
    R-22 is a perfectly acceptable and economical solution for anyone to consider now and until it's production phase-out begins, IMO Even after phase-out, you will have options so it's not like you're gonna' have to go out and buy another system if your R-22 system is still functioning. There are drop-in replacements for R-22 that are already proven to be reliable replacements.
    410-A is still quite expensive compared to R-22.

    410-A systems have been harder for me to sell because of the higher prices and the fact that I am in a resort area where premium systems are not normally considered for tenants. They are a great option for a year round resident or someone willing to spend a little more.
    I like em' and they are no big deal to install or service. Just haven't installed many yet, but we are starting to service them more frequently.
    Any of em' can control humidity levels right where you want them to be with the right combination of things.

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