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  1. #1

    Hobart FFW valve not closing and other questions

    I bought a used Hobart FFW and I am working on getting it running. So far I have hooked up my 220, hot water and drain. It runs wash cycles and drain cycle. I have a few issues though.

    1. The unit had 3 light gauge wires running through a conduit out the back. They trace to the valve by the booster tank right behind the gauges. Where are these supposed to go? I hooked a 110 plug up and plugged it in thinking it was some sort of rigged fix and it opens that valve pouring water into the wash area? It seems to cycle properly with our without this plugged in.

    2. The valve described above never closes fully even after a wash cycle, it dribbles out at a decent rate if not plugged in and pours out if the extra wires are plugged in.

    3. The primer for the detergent. I flip the switch and nothing happens does it need to be in a particular mode to work?

    4. There are two plastic tubes, one that comes from the detergent pump for detergent. Another goes under the wash basin and comes out the back with a threaded end. It dribbles rinse water during some of the wash cycle, what is this for?

    5. Finally after I get it all working my goal is to add a switch to the heat booster to be able to turn it off and on. (This is for residential use and often we will only need domestic hot water temp) My first thought is to interrupt the heating element with a heavy duty switch, perhaps off of a welder. Any thoughts here? Does this unit have any sensors that won't allow it to wash if my water isn't hot enough.

    Thanks for any suggestions!

  2. #2
    1- could be one of two fill solenoid (brass)which is behind panel and feeds water to booster or drain valve which goes to drain (drain solenoid white plastic) not sure of third wire unless its green then its a chassis ground. normally they would go to timer assy but sounds like someone modified it for manual fill or drain

    2-probably needs a rebuild kit if fill or drain body if drain

    3- manual says latch door, turn on, and hold switch 10 seconds

    4- soap injector either to back of tank (1/8 npt) or possibly into fill line which will have a connector which is threaded 1/8 npt

    5- just put switch in series with coil wire of contactor any switch would work. almost 100 percent sure there aren't any sensors as this is a mechanical timed unit

  3. #3
    Thanks for hitting each question directly. I did some more tinkering tonight.

    2. Its on the fill valve I believe. I shut my watersupply off and started taking it apart it does not close, at least all the way. Even just gravity flow from the boost tank pushes water through. I am assuming this should be shut unless its activated. I took the valve apart and nothing looks out of line, the rubber is not cracked etc. A rebuild kit is $100, any suggestions on what to look for before I spend the $?

    4. I am still not sure here. There is clearly the tube running from the soap pump to the fill line, appears to run through a valve likely a check valve? There is however a second tube of the same diameter running from a brown plastic piece located in the bottom of the wash tub. On other other end of the tube is small diameter threads. I can't see the use of this unless its to gravity drain out excess water in the wash tub?

  4. #4
    things to look for would be of course rubber torn but also any abrasions at all will let water thru also look at the plunger in the top. Is the spring on top? Does the rubber in the end look smooth or have a slight circle indentation from the brass grommet in rubber that you checked before and also how does sealing surface look under rubber it doesnt take much for a leak.

    I would be willing to bet they used that machine for chemical sanatizing or a rinse agent and that line went to a seperate pump on the wall. either way you do not need it and can install some kind of plug.

  5. #5
    I forgot to add to make sure plunger moves freely as they can hang and not close all the way. Just use a little scotch brite to polish plunger and body never sandpaper

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Over the river and through the woods
    Posts
    116
    Do yourself a favor and replace the solenoid valve. they usually decide to let go when you are not paying attention and you can end up with one heck of a flood. Additionally, your homeowners insurance may balk at paying a claim for having a commercial warewasher flood out your residential kitchen if the solenoid does fail. I personally cringe when I see one of those lumps in the field. They were a great unit 25 years ago, now not so much.

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