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Thread: York DXS Heater

  1. #1
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    York DXS Heater

    So any tricks to getting a compressor heater out a DXS?

    I was almost temped to drill a 5/8" hole on the backside, so I could just hammer it out. But I went the long root and drilled the porcelain out. Then drilled the stainless sleeve out.

    There's got to be an easier way?

  2. #2
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    Actually, no, there's not.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ascj View Post
    ...I was almost temped to drill a 5/8" hole on the backside, so I could just hammer it out. But I went the long root and drilled the porcelain out. Then drilled the stainless sleeve out...
    that is how i do it. although i have never tried to heat the base of the compressor with a torch to see if it would break loose first. it might do more damage to the oil/refrigerant/motor windings before the heater might break loose...nevermind.
    How to lose weight fast...under-cooked chicken.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayguy View Post
    that is how i do it. although i have never tried to heat the base of the compressor with a torch to see if it would break loose first. it might do more damage to the oil/refrigerant/motor windings before the heater might break loose...nevermind.
    It don't hurt to heat it but that don't matter 'cause it don't help, anyway.....(at least not on the ones I've tried)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by klove View Post
    Actually, no, there's not.
    I concur get yourself a drill with the proper size bit and length and something that won't burn up while your doing it outside ones are better than the inside ones laying on your side in between the compressors when you install the new one put some never seize on that *****. (OMG)!
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  6. #6
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    What the heck is it with York and oil heaters? I have 2 older YS chillers (YS DB DA S2-CJA). One has a failed oil seperator heater that is stuck in the well. And it's located on the side of the seperator facing the compressor, where access is extremely limited. What freakin' engineer decided that! Local York guys have tried repeatedly to remove it, with no sucess. So, what is the planned fix(as suggested by the factory)? Recover oil and refrigerant, remove the seperator, set it on the ground, replace heater and well, reinstall seperator, evacuate and charge. All that for what should be a simple repair! I've seen some questionable engineering in my time, but this one takes the cake. Needless to say, the new heater will get anti-seize on it. And the annual service will include remove, clean, and inspect heater. Then apply new anti-seize and reinstall heater. Rant over (for now). Didn't mean to hijack your thread ascj, but your problem looked to be resolved, and I thought you might appreciate somebody else sharing your frustration.
    Last edited by Nuclrchiller; 10-07-2011 at 09:15 AM. Reason: clarify whose plan this is.

  7. #7
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    And if you think this is bad wait till you have to work on first generation YCIV compressor they are all up under the front of the machine you will need a hamster to work in there with you ! ( They design it but they will never service it)
    A mind is like a parachute. It doesn't work if it is not open.

    The best part of going to work is coming back home at the end of the day.

    Hard work spotlights the character of people: some turn up their sleeves, some turn up their noses, and some don't turn up at all.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ascj View Post
    So any tricks to getting a compressor heater out a DXS?

    I was almost temped to drill a 5/8" hole on the backside, so I could just hammer it out. But I went the long root and drilled the porcelain out. Then drilled the stainless sleeve out.

    There's got to be an easier way?
    No, but I have drilled them out like you did and used a tube collapsing spear to bend it inward once all the guts are out. Did a McQuay PE126 one time, 17 hours later....................
    "I'm from Texas, what country are you from?"

  9. #9
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    The problem was the 135 degree 5/8" bit I had, was getting wrecked by the porcelain. So I had to use a 1/2" masonry bit to drill out the center. Then go at the stainless.....which was a nightmare. Bit kept on catching. It's done, but it sucked. Just waiting for the overpriced heater to come in.

  10. #10
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    I think if I ever have this problem, I will measure the circumference of the comp. right by the foot with heater, and order a band type heater to fit. It would have to be better than the heater in the foot of the comp. That's alot of pot metal soaking up and dissipating heat, before the heat gets to where it's actually needed.

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