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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    27

    reverseing valve need help installing

    Can anyone of you guys please help me out i installed a reverseing valve on a trane split heat pump it was very difficult to weld in the vavle was very close to the outdoor coil just want to know if anyone has a easier technique and would be willing to share the knowledge i would be very thankful

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Rochester, NY, USA
    Posts
    14,288
    I usually hang a wet cloth on the coil to protect it from the flame.

    My suggestion to installing a RV, use Stay-Brite 5% silver solder. It melts at 436F, always try and point the flame away from the valve body, wrap the body with wet cloth, do one tube at a time then cool it off, if you try and do all of them you'll cook the valve.

    we all have our own opinions on how to do things, but that's what I do and it work for me

    Good luck
    The Last four letters


    American = I Can, Republican = I Can, Democrats = Rats


    any questions

  3. #3
    There is no easy way to install a reversing valve. They all will make you want a shot of crown!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    8
    sometimes it's easier to take the coil out, replace the valv, then put the coil back in.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    aiken s.c.
    Posts
    170

    Hmm

    I have found that sometimes it is easier to cut the old valve out and braze stubs in outside of the unit also. However this does bring up an interesting question; What do you guys use to braze reversing valves? I have always used Sil-Fos but I can"t help but wonder if there"s not something better?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    greenville , sc
    Posts
    718
    i use "gutter glue" ..NOT...


    i use either of the methods mentioned above just depends on the situation .

    i have to say though high heat and quick brazing usually gets me through.

    very hot very fast.... not to much heat transfer.
    catch a man a fish , feed him for a day.
    teach a man to fish , ruin a good business opportunity.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Rochester, NY, USA
    Posts
    14,288
    Quote Originally Posted by aikenite View Post
    I have found that sometimes it is easier to cut the old valve out and braze stubs in outside of the unit also. However this does bring up an interesting question; What do you guys use to braze reversing valves? I have always used Sil-Fos but I can"t help but wonder if there"s not something better?
    see post #2, Stray-Brite melts at 430F and has the same tensile strength as braze, the issue is the price. One pound costs a small fortune and you must use there flux.
    The Last four letters


    American = I Can, Republican = I Can, Democrats = Rats


    any questions

  8. #8
    Don't use solder on a 410 unit, the manufacturers say that the high side pressure is too high. Ive never tried it, but Ill take their word for it.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Rochester, NY, USA
    Posts
    14,288
    Quote Originally Posted by SwampTromper View Post
    Don't use solder on a 410 unit, the manufacturers say that the high side pressure is too high. Ive never tried it, but Ill take their word for it.
    time to put a call into Stay-Brite and see what they say. *supposedly* it has the same tensile strength as Sil-phos???
    The Last four letters


    American = I Can, Republican = I Can, Democrats = Rats


    any questions

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    las vegas
    Posts
    1,505
    i put 2 valves in earlier this year with sta brite on 410a systems
    & so far they are holding up well.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Houston area
    Posts
    1,493

    Never do it yourself

    Reversing valves are for helpers. Make him do it and then cuss him out real good when it leaks. Your helper will feel like crap and develop self esteem issues but you'll feel superior.

    Of course I'm just kidding. RV's can be (and usually are) a royal PITA. I have used 15% with success on both R22 and R410 systems but the liquidus temp is 1465F so you have to get it hot. Use an oxy/acetylene rig and hit it quick and clean. You should not have to have your torch on the tube for more than 15 seconds or so. Wrap the valve with strips of dripping wet cloth and do the tubes one at a time.

    jmac00 are you sure you're not referring to Stay-Silv 5% as opposed to Stay-Brite 8% ??? The Harris website doesn't list a Stay-Brite 5% but does list 8% with 430F liquidus
    The picture in my avatar is of the Houston Ship Channel and was taken from my backyard. I like to sit outside and slap mosquitos while watching countless supertankers, barges and cargo ships of every shape and size carry all sorts of deadly toxins to and fro. It's really beautiful at times.....just don't eat the three eyed fish....

    `. .` .>(((>

    `... `. .` .>(((>

    .` .>(((>

    LMAOSHMSFOAIDMT

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Rochester, NY, USA
    Posts
    14,288
    Quote Originally Posted by Cooked View Post

    jmac00 are you sure you're not referring to Stay-Silv 5% as opposed to Stay-Brite 8% ??? The Harris website doesn't list a Stay-Brite 5% but does list 8% with 430F liquidus
    my apologizes, you maybe right. I thought the guy said 5%, but it maybe 8%. All the roll says is "Stay-Brite....Silver-Bearing solder" RoHS compliant.

    I got this stuff to solder in a Modulating mixing valve. It did cost me $60freaking dollars for a one pound roll and $20 bucks for the flux

    I really like the stuff, low melting point, excellent flow, excellent tensile strength
    The Last four letters


    American = I Can, Republican = I Can, Democrats = Rats


    any questions

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Round Rock
    Posts
    3,549
    Charge them so much for the RV change that they buy a new unit.
    I like DIY'ers. They pay better to fix.

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