Thanks for all the input.
I thought I was getting down to the end of my estimates but now I guess I have to keep going.
I have a guy on his way over now & I will ask him how is is coming up with the size and request a load calc. I also scheduled Public Service (Out Gas & Electric provider) to give an estimate on the upgrade. I would hope that they would do a load calc and not just wing it. I will let you know how that goes.
There are 3 other houses in my neighborhood that are the same model built the same year - 1989. Two of them have had their HVAC updated in the last couple years, I understand that they may have been oversized but I am going to visit them later today & see what they had put in and their feelings on how well they work for them.
This is a 2 story house: zone 1 1st floor, zone 2 2nd floor. Insulation was R30? in the attic - About 6 inches of blown in insulation between the rafters? Never been upgraded but has compressed a bit over time.
@Beenthere - you asked:
"On the coldest nights, do both of your furnaces have to run 24/7 to maintain the temp you set your thermostat to? Or do they still only run for a few minutes each."
The best answer I can give is: We run Zone 1 during the day (family room & kitchen) and Zone 2 (bedrooms) at night. In the winter we set the zone we are not using to about 58-60 then a couple hours before bed it changes to about 68. Zone 1 at bedtime goes down to 58-60 and resets to about 68 a couple hours before we wake up.
So it would be rare that both systems are on at the same time ever but I guess on the coldest of nights, zone 1 could run at night to maintain 58 degrees.
During the coldest days, does the first floor furnace have to run continuous to maintain temp, or does it cycle on and off.
I had walked into my hvac class and my instructor was with some guy on a laptop and they were using that satellite program! They were saying its a accepted program for manual J. LOLL and it is accepted by FPL (Florida Power and Light) as a manual J calculation. I even overheard them about getting paid to use the program. LOLL. I guess that program is a bust. I was suggesting my instructor on the HVAC Calc but he kinda just rolled his eyes and said "thats nice". lol
Originally Posted by BaldLoonie
On the coldest of days my 1st floor furnace would run for extended periods to maintain 68 degrees. On an average winter day 35 degrees, it has been a while, but I think it would come on, run 20-30 mins, then shut off for about the same. This is to the best of my recollection.
Same for the AC in the summer.
Winter or Summer, I really can't ever remember units coming on and just running all the time or cycleing on and off frequently. My mom's house would run 2 mins then cycled off & back on. It drove me nuts when we visited so I am aware of that type of issue and would at least remember if our house ever did that.
I also checked with neighbors who have upgraded in the last couple years...same exact house...same exact exposer. They both had systems put in - 90-100,000 btu on each floor. AC 2.5 - 3 ton up and 3- 3.5 ton down.
I just got a quote from a guy who took all the measurements and noted windows/ doors, outside walls etc. His was the most expensive quote of them all!!! Almost double my lowest quote! He proposed 2 amana AMVC957040CX & 2 Amana ASZC160361A 16 Seer 2 stage heat pumpts.
Another guy that came Saturday said he would do a load calc for me and took all the info back to input to his computer in the office. I am waiting on his quote. I will respond when I get that too.!
Again, thanks to everyone for their input.
Those Amana units are "lifetime" complete unit replacment warranty units, so they'll have the best warranty of all proposed, and sounds like they are also closer in size to what you actually need. Regardless of cost, might want to consider them. Remember that heat rises, so putting the smaller AC upstairs is usually NOT a good idea, unless the upper floor is quite a bit smaller than downstairs. We see a lot of folks with two systems and the 2nd floor AC never shuts off due to the heat rising from lower floor.
Oh yes, make sure the communication/control system is included with these Amana units as they are the communicating models with variable speed blower and two stage outside units.
As above, those are higher end Amanas. The price reflects that, and probably higher quality workmanship.
Originally Posted by heaterman
YCJF42 Condenser 16 SEER 3.5 Tons
CE48 Evaporator coil
TM9X100C20MP11 furnace w/high eff motor 100,000 BTU 95.5% AFUE
YCJF30 Condenser 16 SEER 2.5 Tons
CE36 Evaporator coil
TM9X080C16P11 furnace w/high eff motor 80,000 BTU 95.5% AFUE
Hmmm, you said the TM9 series is 2 stage.
Not sure if I understand the definition of 2 stage then.
I was just told by a York sales rep that the models quoted are not 2 stage. They have a high eff motor but it is not 2 stage.
Nomenclature: For the new TM8X and TM9X models, the “X” in the fourth position indicates that the furnace is a single stage heat model equipped with a high efficiency DC direct drive motor. This high efficiency motor provides increased SEER ratings when compared to units with standard PSC motors as rated with split system outdoor equipment due to the significant reduction in blower watts used in cooling mode.
But thanks for trying to help.
That is not true. The "X" means it is an X-13 blower motor. The TM series is 2 stage. The TG series is single stage and the YP series is modulating.
Originally Posted by snj2000
You guys are the professionals and you may be right and I am probably confused...but....
I have the YORK brochures
TM9X:Single Stage operation, high-efficiency motor
TM9T: Two-stage operation
TM9V: Two-stage operation, variable-speed motor
So unless I am reading this wrong the TM9X is Single-stage.
You are correct. I got my letters mixed up. Sorry for the confusion I created
Originally Posted by snj2000
Originally Posted by snj2000
I wouldn't worry too much about the oversized factor, you got multiple quotes and neighbors confirming the size and size has very little impact on cost of the furnace (if you believe they are trying to make more money by selling you a larger unit then you need). Efficiency, warranty, brand and stages are the major cost factors.