Not necessarily, if your friend's apartment is further down the pipe circuit or if your friend requires a lot of cooling. The other side of that is that you blew out the pipe but you don't know what kind of calcium build up is inside and your not gonna get all the calcium out with a high pressure purge.
Originally Posted by PolarBearAir
Pop open one end of your pipe and let the water drain into a bucket for 10 secs measure the amount of water in Gallons and then times it by 6. That is a quick and dirty way but it will get you what you need.
If you're too "open" minded, your brains will fall out.
Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity.
You should have an access tee with a shut off valve somewhere on those water lines.
1st try BACK flushing the lines. (rinse out in opposite flow)
If that dont do anything, try some scale remover solution with a submersible pump.
If you resort to this, always reflush with some baking soda and water.
It neutralizes the chemical left over in the pipes, and stops corrosion in the future. I've experienced cracked heat exchangers from not doing this. Before you know it, you have a water breach. And then your changing a whole hell of alot more than you planned on.
What kind of pipe is it? If its copper pipe or pvc, you shouldnt need to use chemical.
But if its black pipe (schedule 40 or suttin), you can have alot of crud.
If I have seen further than others, it is by standing upon the shoulders of giants. ~ Sir Isaac Newton
I'm learning all the time, the tombstone will be my diploma!!!
Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?
Let's get the make and model of this thing maybe the manufacturer will let us freeze up the condenser to clean her up.
I agree with some sort of water flow issue. You most likely do have a strainer on the inlet water to the unit. Your lines could be crossed but not likely if it has been working for any period of time before you began working on it.
WSHP's are prone to having fouled/stopped up condensers if the tower water is not maintained properly. Based on what you have posted so far, I would imagine you have a stopped up strainer, mineral/crud build up in the condenser, or a combination of the two. As stated earlier, get it cleaned up ASAP but make sure you get all cleaning residue out of the system.......maintenance crew on an "unnamed military installation" near me cleaned 10 WSHP condensers and did not get cleaning residue out of them.........10 compressors went swimming from the inside..........and refrigeration oil in your condenser water is a little messy as well.
All that being said, it sounds like water flow issues of some kind. Not likely that your unit has any sort of automatic water flow control valve, but likely has a circuit setter. You should be able to check your pressure drops across condenser at PT ports (normally Trane supplies supply and return ball valves with built in PT ports along with flexible connnections for each unit). If the installing contractor did not buy the connection kits with the units, then hopefully they installed PT ports on the pipe somewhere near the unit supply and return connections.
Surely water flow issue. Just check the in and out temp, it will probably have a large td. Then like everyone said, check for strainer, purge both ways, and you'll most likely need a chemical soak and flush because thats some nasty water and the unit has clearly not been maintained. If you still dont have around ten degree td then its most likely a charge issue, but hooking up gauges with a dirty or clogged condenser is a waste of time. Check for gpm specs but if theres any damage to the condenser youll ned to adjust flow to get desired temps. And like johnny said, any cleaner that will work well is very acidic and needs to be thouroughly rinsed.
Have you checked the loop circ pmp discharge pressure? this should give you a starting point. Does the unit have a circuit setter? if it does it should have the test ports you can use.
Originally Posted by PolarBearAir
I have a water furnace heat pump
Model eal20 atv series and the high pressure switch light comes on shutting down the system
Is this a bad switch and how do I check it
Hire a tech
Originally Posted by tim long