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  1. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    9
    Yup. I guess I have 2 problems. 1) finding a contractor who cares and understands. 2) trying to find how the heat pump should be set up. At this point in time, all that I am left with are the factory defaults. What I do not understand at this point is why are York's factory defaults so different from Hitachi. My neighbour's Hitachi was installed with no installer configuration and it works automatically to control fan speed. Here the default is "hot heat pump", so that the fan puts out a constant 79F from the moment that the fan starts.

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    67,935
    Different brands do things differently.

    The unstalling contractor should have set everything up for you.

    Have them come back out, or find another York dealer to come and do it.

    Once its set up right, you'll be glad you had it done.
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    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    9
    Well, I managed to get a commitment from the regional York rep to come in with technical help on Jan. 6, 2006. He agrees that from my description of how the unit is working does indicate that the unit is not working correctly. I will let this site know the result of his visit.

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    9
    Well, I am happy with my heat pump now. The York technician finally showed. The problem, as many at this site suggested, was that the "hot heat pump" mode was not engaged. And, the Y2 wire was not connected so that the heat pump could control the fan speed. With these two changes the heat pump blows hot air at the register and heats the house adequately right down to 10F, which is about all that I was promised. At this point the gas furnace takes over.

    Here are a some of the things that I learned.

    1) "normal heat pump" mode is to be used only in climates where the temperature does not drop below freezing, or, ideally, below 40F. In colder climates, "hot heat pump" mode must be used.

    2) One reason for this is the nature of the new 410 refrigerant. It pumps more heat per compressor stroke when it is warm than when it is cold. So, if the gas is exiting the heat pump at say 150F then it will produce more heat per compressor cycle than it does when it is exiting at colder temperatures. And, these temperature can drop as low as the outside temperature at initial startup.

    3) With "hot heat pump" mode the heat pump does not turn on the furnace fan until the gas reaches, I believe, about 137F. With the fan off, even at the coldest outside temperatures, this will take about 5 to 15 minutes. Then, the heat pump continuously controls the fan speed throughout its operation to keep the gas temperature high, slowing and increasing the fan speed as necessary. While the air flow does drop, the air temperature at the register is maintained at 80F to 95F.

    4)In "normal heat pump" mode the fan comes on at full speed as soon as the heat pump starts and the gas temperature increases very slowing and does not reach the best operating temperature for something like 1/2 to 1 1/2 hours, depending on the outside temperature. In warmer climates this is usually sufficient to immediately take the chill out of the air. In colder climates it means that the heat pump will be blowing cold air for a very long time and with normal building heat loss at cold temperatures, the house will get too cold before heat is produced. And, this is precisely my initial complaint when I started this thread.

    My thanks to all who participated.


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