Had TVA Home Experts and Performed a Blower Door Tst
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  1. #1

    Had TVA Home Experts and Performed a Blower Door Tst

    They said its one of the best homes they've tested in a while. Big thanks, in part, goes to some of the pros here for your help.

    2 problems though

    1) Guy said hot air was invading from the attic from exhaust fan in master BR. He said pop the face and pull "flapper" down. Problem was....the flapper was down..but I did feel the warm air coming in......what do I do.

    2) Some insulation was in a return in my daughter's room (the warmest room in the house)

    Appreciate in comments

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    6,231
    How tight is your home? Blower door test duplicate fresh air infiltration during the average winter day. A healthy home gets an air change in 4-5 hours to purge indoor pollutants and renew oxygen. During warm calm weather, the natural ventilation declines to near nothing.
    Thats when you need a specific amount of mechanical fresh air ventilation.
    You have a clothes drier, bath fans, and kitchen hood that all need make-up air to function.
    After you get the specific amount of fresh air throughout the year, you need to maintain <50%RH to avoid mold and dust mites.
    I suggest you look a ventilating whole house dehumidifier for green grass climates as simple way of get fresh air and keeping the humidity <50%RH when the a/c is not operating. It is always something.

    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    How tight is your home? Blower door test duplicate fresh air infiltration during the average winter day. A healthy home gets an air change in 4-5 hours to purge indoor pollutants and renew oxygen. During warm calm weather, the natural ventilation declines to near nothing.
    Thats when you need a specific amount of mechanical fresh air ventilation.
    You have a clothes drier, bath fans, and kitchen hood that all need make-up air to function.
    After you get the specific amount of fresh air throughout the year, you need to maintain <50%RH to avoid mold and dust mites.
    I suggest you look a ventilating whole house dehumidifier for green grass climates as simple way of get fresh air and keeping the humidity <50%RH when the a/c is not operating. It is always something.

    Regards TB
    Very, very tight. Doors and windows are all new and hi tech. Insulation is more than sufficient for mid south.
    I know we do need fresh air but I'd rather not pay more summer/winter on bills to achieve it. Fall and spring, air is too dry

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Western PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by AvantGarde View Post
    Very, very tight. Doors and windows are all new and hi tech. Insulation is more than sufficient for mid south.
    I know we do need fresh air but I'd rather not pay more summer/winter on bills to achieve it. Fall and spring, air is too dry
    Without proper fresh air ventilation, your health and your home could suffer some serious consequences.


    Controlling the amount, times and quality if air being brought in is key.

    Tb has great ways of explaining it better than I can.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Rochester NY
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    4,695
    Very very tight?

    Very well insulated?

    My 10 year old daughter isn't clinically obese, she's big boned.
    ...How much does she weigh?
    I dunno...


    Adjectives are difficult to quantify. We like to see numbers. We need to see them unless you just want "congratulations" as comments.
    Which makes more sense to you?
    CONSERVATION - turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
    ENERGY EFFICIENCY - leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%

    DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
    What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!

    Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org, or RESNET, and find an auditor near you.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by AvantGarde View Post
    Very, very tight. Doors and windows are all new and hi tech. Insulation is more than sufficient for mid south.
    I know we do need fresh air but I'd rather not pay more summer/winter on bills to achieve it. Fall and spring, air is too dry
    It is your choice. The correct amount of fresh air to purge indoor pollutants is not expensive or uncomfortable. Mechanical fresh air is only needed when the home is occupied and the natural ventilation is short.
    Consider that occupants add CO2 and moisture to the air in the home. You can tell how much fresh air a home is passing through the home by monitoring the CO2 levels and/or the moisture levels in the home. If the doors and windows were all open, the CO2 and the moisture levels in the inside/outside air would be the same. The moisture/CO2 levels outisde verses inside change with air change rate change. If we enclosed the home in a plastic bag with occupants in the home, the home CO2 levels would rise very high, becoming life threatingly short of oxygen, and saturated with moisute. With proper air change the CO2 and moisture leaving the home is slightly higher than the air entering the home. If interested in the expected increase, I will continue the post.
    Let me know.
    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Down by the river
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    1,604
    Quote Originally Posted by teddy bear View Post
    It is your choice. The correct amount of fresh air to purge indoor pollutants is not expensive or uncomfortable. Mechanical fresh air is only needed when the home is occupied and the natural ventilation is short.
    Consider that occupants add CO2 and moisture to the air in the home. You can tell how much fresh air a home is passing through the home by monitoring the CO2 levels and/or the moisture levels in the home. If the doors and windows were all open, the CO2 and the moisture levels in the inside/outside air would be the same. The moisture/CO2 levels outisde verses inside change with air change rate change. If we enclosed the home in a plastic bag with occupants in the home, the home CO2 levels would rise very high, becoming life threatingly short of oxygen, and saturated with moisute. With proper air change the CO2 and moisture leaving the home is slightly higher than the air entering the home. If interested in the expected increase, I will continue the post.
    Let me know.
    Regards TB
    I'm interested. or point me to a thread in the pro's side. I actually tried a search last night on ''fresh air'' last night, came up with nothing. Of course I am looking for more detailed measurement and how to, most likely to DIY for this thread.
    It's hard to stop a Trane. but I have made one helluva living keeping them going.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    southern california
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    Quote Originally Posted by Southern Mech View Post
    I'm interested. or point me to a thread in the pro's side. I actually tried a search last night on ''fresh air'' last night, came up with nothing. Of course I am looking for more detailed measurement and how to, most likely to DIY for this thread.
    Fresh air and proper ventilation has been determined by ASHRAE 62.1

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by acwizard View Post
    Fresh air and proper ventilation has been determined by ASHRAE 62.1
    For residential its 62.2.
    Make your expertise uniquely valuable.

    Make your influence uniquely far-reaching.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    south louisiana
    Posts
    3,123
    OP
    1) Guy said hot air was invading from the attic from exhaust fan in master BR. He said pop the face and pull "flapper" down. Problem was....the flapper was down..but I did feel the warm air coming in......what do I do.

    warm air is entering from oversized cut ceiling around vent fan.the cover of fan covers the gap.

    2. Some insulation was in a return in my daughter's room (the warmest room in the house)

    no wonder its warm.. the return is open to the attic thus the insulation inside the r/a

    seriously...don't these utility sponsered audits do more than point out problems?
    no solutions?
    oh yeah...free/low cost audit.

    what were the numbers?
    what size house?
    Tennessee?

    best of luck
    The cure of the part should not be attempted without the cure of the whole. ~Plato

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    In cold climates the best option for maintaining good iaq in a house is an HRV.

    In warm climates probably an ERV or ventilating dehumidifier.
    General public's attitude towards our energy predicament: "I reject the reality of finite resource depletion and substitute it with my own; energy is infinite, we just need an alternative storage medium to run the cars on. The economy can grow indefinitely - we just need to "green" everything! Technology is energy! Peak what?"

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