Just going to make a stab at it that you work for Sears/A&E Factory service?
Originally Posted by 54regcab
That is why the indoor coil ought to have enough space under it to get a good view of the coil & fins. That makes it possible to spray the coil from both sides, use a soft brush, & catch the run-off in a pan.
Originally Posted by fearlessfurnace
It is good practice to use evaporator coil cleaner at intervals that will insure optimal heat transfer - efficient performance.
Blower wheel blades must also be kept clean, & mark where the balance weights are in case they're knocked off.
Last edited by udarrell; 09-09-2011 at 11:54 PM.
Reason: Blower wheel blades...
As somebody who has repaired TV's for 20yrs we had to start picking up appliance work a few years ago due to the low cost of TV's nowadays. Warranty rates are dropping for both TV and appliance work, that's why I'm looking into doing something else. It's getting as bad as what the home warranty companies are doing to HVAC contractors.
Originally Posted by darctangent
Nope, I work for an independent shop. The techs at A&E/Sears do basically the same thing we do.
Originally Posted by ryan1088
A question related to charging correctly ...
When a tech came to repair a leak in my indoor coil (TXV valve connection leak), he added refrigerant based on the pressure readings of his gauges connected to the low and high side ... is this an accurate way to charge?
a very important part of one.
Originally Posted by mroberts
It's hard to stop a Trane. but I have made one helluva living keeping them going.
Seems like we are saying the same thing, really. I read both manuals. Both say to add refrigerant by weight per foot of line set beyond 15 feet. Both also say to verify proper charge by superheat and or subcooling after start up. That is essentially what I said earlier.
Originally Posted by hvacrmedic
I never said that it was the "preferred" method. I said manufacturers recommend weighing in charge on installation. PAge 6 of the Goodman manual says to. Page 14 of the Rheem manual says to. They recommend it both times.
Where is the discrepancy?
It's not rocket-science...
It's electromechanical thermodynamic engineering
i know that most manufactures say weight in the charge . although is the evaporator coil that is installed is that the coil that the refrigerant charge was based on . if you put a larger coil to increase the seer you will need more refrigerant. mabey its just me but i have measured line sets and weighed in the charge and i never come up with the correct subcool or superheat almost always short on gas
dont forget this assumes th the factory actually weigh the correct charge in the condensing unit b4 it was shipped!
after installation verifing proper SH & SC many times reveils low charge and recently i've found drastic over charges.
weigh in is a starting point. the equipment isnt installed in a lab setting. charge must be set to operate with in the enviroment its installed.
if your not testing, your guessing
my boss thinks its possible to repeal the laws of physics
I was working as a "tan" tech when the fed building was bombed in Oklahoma City. I fixed tv's and appliances, particularly those using refrigerant. I vividly recall getting a trailer load of RCAs with bad picture tubes. I had worked through them about halfway when RCA (Thompson) said we should stop the process and ship them to some warehouse in New Jersey.
Its true. Its almost impossible to make a living in appliance repair. The units are so cheap that replacement costs less.
[Avatar photo from a Florida training accident. Everyone walked away.]
2 Tim 3:16-17
RSES CMS, HVAC Electrical Specialist
AOP Forum Rules:
I have a question to add to this thread. When they say to : "If line set
exceeds 15 feet in length, refrigerant should be added at .6
ounces per foot of liquid line." If one accounts for the additional line set and properly charges the unit. Then when one measures the sub-cooling do you still base your charge off the manufactures chart? ( sub-cooling number vs outdoor temperature?) Is the manufactures sub-cooling chart independent of whatever the line set length maybe? I mean would it matter? Or is the sub-cooling chart calculated already with X amount of line set? (example the 15 ft manufactures are mentioning in the manual). I am kind of asking would one go with the chart or some other way after accounting for the additional line set?
I can't go too far on your question other than to say that measured performance is king, period.
Originally Posted by mofotech
To say more would flirt with breaking the rules.
What lies behind us and what lies before us are small matters compared to what lies within us.
Two pressures, four temperatures = SUCCESS!
Boulder Heating Contractor
For HVACR Professionals:
This and other questions are answered in the pro tech forums.
Originally Posted by mofotech