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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    59

    Mounting a compressor to foundation wall

    I am having my compressor (outdoor unit) moved from the back of the house to the side of the house. I have noticed that when the unit is leveled it operates nice an quiet but as soon as it gets out of level the noise level increases.

    In the old location I used thick rubber to insulate and level the compressor and that worked ok, but I am looking for pointers to any L type brackets that may have 4 leveling screws. The work will be done by a contractor, but I may want to supply a better quality L brackets ( they want to re-use the current brackets ). The type of L bracket I would love to see, is with screws that have rubber pads, that can be adjusted up or down.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    352
    Have a stand built for the unit so it is not attached to the foundation of the home. It will reduce noise and vibration transferrence. It may cost a bit more, but if it built properly, and leveled properly it will solve all of the problems you mentioned.
    It's not rocket-science...

    It's electromechanical thermodynamic engineering

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,060
    Quote Originally Posted by euroboy View Post
    I am having my compressor (outdoor unit) moved from the back of the house to the side of the house. I have noticed that when the unit is leveled it operates nice an quiet but as soon as it gets out of level the noise level increases.

    In the old location I used thick rubber to insulate and level the compressor and that worked ok, but I am looking for pointers to any L type brackets that may have 4 leveling screws. The work will be done by a contractor, but I may want to supply a better quality L brackets ( they want to re-use the current brackets ). The type of L bracket I would love to see, is with screws that have rubber pads, that can be adjusted up or down.
    it

    It looks like you have open brackets. If that is the case reuse the brackets and install cross supports and set it on a rubber pad.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    59
    The new location is on an edge of a walkway and may get finished at some point with patio stones, so I want to keep my options open. If the unit is put on a slab, I would have to pay again to have it raised if I want to finish things around it - I rather do it once and do it right.

    Also, from my experiments ( read applying small pressure from each side ), even small amounts out of level make a big difference to the noise level - with the rubber as in the picture, I don't even hear the unit sitting inside next to the wall where it is mounted - the rubber makes a huge difference !!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    59
    Second opinion - good idea, but I really love to have the ability to do a fine leveling of the unit. When they mount the brackets to the wall, there is only so much leveling they can do, and with time the brackets may move a bit.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Keokuk, IA
    Posts
    5,520
    Pros'. Should the noise levle change significantly if a unit is out of level. Recips? Scrolls?

    It jsut seem slike its' rare ot find a unit that's perfectly level unless a really... really good concrete pad was poured. Everything else will sink a little over time.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northern VA 38 degrees N by 76 degrees W
    Posts
    5,060
    Install cross plate to support the entire base of the unit on top of 5/8th inch bolts with double nuts and you can fine tune the platform.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    59
    I like this idea - I just hope my contractor has done something like this before

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    59
    On a related note - which is more important to install ( if any ):

    - line filter
    - line dryer

    The contractor has not mention if he plans to install either - should I insist on either ?

    Because he is going to re-use the existing lineset ( just make it about 1/2 shorter ), he mention that he does not use nitrogen while brazing - is this OK. I have seen videos that claim that as long as both ends are capped the amount of oxidation on the inside is minimal. Also people suggested that using CO2 is fine and cheaper - I would love some input on this issue.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Cincinnati, Oh
    Posts
    5,042
    Quote Originally Posted by euroboy View Post
    On a related note - which is more important to install ( if any ):

    - line filter
    - line dryer

    The contractor has not mention if he plans to install either - should I insist on either ?

    Because he is going to re-use the existing lineset ( just make it about 1/2 shorter ), he mention that he does not use nitrogen while brazing - is this OK. I have seen videos that claim that as long as both ends are capped the amount of oxidation on the inside is minimal. Also people suggested that using CO2 is fine and cheaper - I would love some input on this issue.
    Nitrogen is the only sweeping gas.
    I wouldn't worry about it on an old r-22 system.
    A line dryer and line filter are the same thing. It's called a filter-dryer. It's one device, not 2.

    Why don't you just set the unit on a slab?
    "Better tell the sandman to stay away, because we're gonna be workin on this one all night."

    "Dude, you need more than 2 wires to a condenser to run a 2 stage heatpump."

    "Just get it done son."

    Dad adjusted

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    59
    As for the slab please see the comment above - future use of the location where the unit is going is pushing me towards using L brackets.

    As for the filter, I saw two different types - one that goes on the suction line the other on the liquid line - the claim in the video I saw was that they are different. It said that liquid line filter is built into the unit, but if the line is cut and brazed later the filter should be replace. The other filter was suggested works to remove water from the system - this was a sales video, so that is why I am asking about it here

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Cincinnati, Oh
    Posts
    5,042
    Quote Originally Posted by euroboy View Post
    As for the slab please see the comment above - future use of the location where the unit is going is pushing me towards using L brackets.

    As for the filter, I saw two different types - one that goes on the suction line the other on the liquid line - the claim in the video I saw was that they are different. It said that liquid line filter is built into the unit, but if the line is cut and brazed later the filter should be replace. The other filter was suggested works to remove water from the system - this was a sales video, so that is why I am asking about it here
    You can have a suction line filter dryer, or a liquid line filter dryer.

    Suction is more for really badly contaminated systems, and should be removed at a later date.

    Liquid line filter dryers are ones that you would replace after opening a system.
    "Better tell the sandman to stay away, because we're gonna be workin on this one all night."

    "Dude, you need more than 2 wires to a condenser to run a 2 stage heatpump."

    "Just get it done son."

    Dad adjusted

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    34
    NEVER put CO2 into a refrigeration system. It can cause unexpected EXPLOSIVE consequences. A suction filter is used to catch any crap before it goes into the compressor. It is used usually on initial start up and after a system has had a bad burn out. A liquid line filter drier is used to absorb any crap moisture and non condenseables.

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