no superheat, no subcooling

[ChaseAir]

If it has txv add r22 until you get 10 subcool or whatever the mfg says. Always (almost) check caps on a service call....and contactor.

[tipsrfine]

One more bit o advice I'd give to a new person is to visit the education forum on this site and read & watch the videos. Good stuff there. Get a digital psychrometer and learn the importance of taking the wet bulb temp of the return air entering the evap, so you can determine what your superheat should be when charging fixed metering devices. You need to know when the superheat should be 5 degrees and when it should be 30 degrees. (This is on the same system mind you).

[02powerstroke]

Thank you... I will check that forum out for sure.

[Capz]

Fan motor doesn't have any wiggle... it is aged, but not bad... Has some rust on it...

Contactor is new, looks to have been replaced recently... I will check it anyway...

Wiring looks good, no overheating signs... I will check motor amperage after I replace the cap

I shoot the temp with my infrared of every fan motor at residential A/C customers home as I am working on their unit. Good motors run at or about 104F on a typical 80F day in PA. I've seen a few read at 145F just prior to failure. Not sure if my theory works is 100% conclusive but its helps to know what may fail in the near future.

[flip67]

Here is the situation... Design pressures are 150/300psi with 12 degree subcooling...

Actual conditions are 92Psi liquid at a temperature of 69F. High pressure side is at around 220Psi and about 12F BELOW saturation temperature. Cooling isn't really doing much indoors and runs constantly.

Is the compressor on the way out or is there a charge issue here. Forgive me as I am fairly new to the service industry.

Thanks in advance guys

Air flow, check for blockage, blower speed every thing that has to do with air flow make sure all vent are open