i had a drain that was on a hirozanl unit it had a pee trap that someone had made the blower motor was down stream of the evap coil the unit was a goodman ever thing looked level would not drain remove pee trap water ran out it was not double trap so why would nt drain
read install instructions and it should become clear.
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from an excerpt by Paul Jacob in Sun City, AZ
is the outlet of the p-trap lower than the inlet?
I've seen newly installed systems that had the drain line going uphill.
If you push down on the drain line it would drain.
Sometimes the p-trap has a clog in it too.
Too much glue can effectively narrow the drainpipe.
Poor p-trap design can cause it to fail too.
I've seen a vent installed between the p-trap and the coil. With a negative pressure drain, as you described, the vent will allow the blower to suck in air with enough pressure to stop the condensate from draining, just one continuous air dam until the blower shuts off.
You can have a clean out at the top of the p-trap, the clean out must be capped for a negative pressure drain to operate. Without the cap the clean out turns into a vent with the previously described issue.
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― Benjamin Franklin
There is a certian amount of water held in or back by the trap. When you cut it out, there will be a small flow of water. Often if I have a clogged drain, it's because they put a trap in too far up line. I put them in at the outlet of the drain usually. Esp if it's a down flow unit. Also, did you put a level on it? Many times things "look" level or "feel" cool until you verify.
The drain line should be 3/4". The wier of the trap should be a min of 4". The line coming out of the trap should go into a tee with the top of this tee open to air. The line coming out of this tee should be sloped to a drain. If all conditions are met, it will drain.
I like putting unions in, before and after trap to make cleaning the trap easy.
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Iif the blower is before the coil (down stream ) and there was no vent tee before the trap you had a vapor lock. The air and water come out the some hole(drain line) when the air hits the water iin the trap it turns around and goes back in the drain hole and creates an air dam thus not allowing the water to drain.
some manufacturers say if you have a 2vapor inch trap no vent tee is needed however that is for a system wiith perfect static pressures. I always put a vent before the trap and leave cap off on positive pressure drains and cap it on negative pressure drains
Brian, if your installing a vent BEFORE the trap, then your effectively negating any benefit of the trap.
Originally Posted by brian.nc
A single trap will not create vapor lock. It would have to be double trapped.
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Code dictates we put in a trap. They say it prevents radon from entering the house.
I would prefer no trap.
Right. If you have a vent on the unit side of the trap, attached to the suction side of the blower, it is pulling air in through that vent, right into the unit, and spreading throughout the house. The trap is there to keep the mech room air and the conditioned air separate, while still allowing condensate to flow out. The vent should be on the side of the trap AWAY from the air handler.
Originally Posted by brian.nc
The only reason to even have a tee between the unit and the trap, is for cleaning out the trap... and after cleaned, it should be sealed with a cap.
Please explian why a vent is not needed before trap with a gas furnace below the e-coil.
I don't want to do this wrong
As previously mentioned, a trap is there to keep a slug of water to separate the air in the unit, and the air in the space. If you have a vent in between the trap (the slug of water), and the unit, then the slug of water is doing nothing to separate anything. There's not really a reason for a vent downstream of the trap, aside for a path for flow out of the unit if the drain becomes plugged, so it doesn't back up into the unit.