fresh air duct
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Thread: fresh air duct

  1. #1
    I'm in the process of finishing my basement. The furnace fresh air duct enters the basement ceiling and runs between two joists, then drops down and enters the supply duct. By dropping down, it breaks the plane of my planned ceiling and I am trying to minimize the amount of soffit work I need to do around ducts. Question is, does this have to enter the side of the duct versus the top of the duct. The damper blade has a counter weight, and I want to make sure that flipping this thing 90 degrees will not impair it's performance. Also, flipping this thing 90 degrees will cause a pretty tight bend which could obstruct a portion of the air flow. Does anyone know if they make a lower profile version for this application. And finally, upon inspection of the existing assembly, I noticed that the damper counter weights are somewhat resticted by the bulkiness of the surrounding insulation, protective covering, and plastic ties. Even leaving things the way they are, this needs to be addressed. I can open and close the damper by hand. But if it's normally closed and I move it to open, it doesn't automatically go back, and vice versa...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    You lost Me! are you talking draft damper (weights,Fresh air on supply?????????????????????)

  3. #3

    It's a black plastic insulated tube that runs from the main supply duct to the outside. The outside end has a hood. This contraption runs along side the pvc intake pipe. Before this black plastic flexible 6" diameter tunnel enters the main supply duct, there's a 6" diameter damper that remains normally closed by some counter weights. When the furnace is running, which is quite often in these single digit temps up here in the frozen tundra, Green Bay, WI, you can see that damper open slightly by watching the weights move. Furnace and home are 3 years old, and was professionally built.

    Anyway, this whole tunnel is nicely tucked up in between the ceiling joists and the only way for it to enter the main supply duct is by dropping down roughly 6" below the joists, which breaks the plane of my planned finished ceiling, then entering the sidewall of the duct. My thought was to relocate this to enter the top of the duct, keeping this whole tunnel up inside the ceiling joists. I thought I would have to turn the whole damper potion 90 degrees to get it to point down so it can enter the top of the main supply duct. Thinking maybe someone makes a 90 degree 6" damper that could replace what I have. Am now thinking of shortening the tunnel and putting a 90 elbow entering the top of the main supply duct, then attaching this damper to the elbow.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    10,000 for rebuilt engine! Sounds like a lot!!! You should be able to get a rebuilt installed for under half that!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Sounds like they put the fresh air on the supply! It can't work like this! Sounds like somebody goofed! The fresh air should be on the return!

  6. #6
    It should not be a problem to install the intake on the top of the duct. If you do not have the tools or supplies, any contractor in your area should be able to do this for you.

  7. #7
    It should not be a problem to install the intake on the top of the duct. Check your system again, this should be conncted to the return duct, not the supply. If you do not have the tools or materials, any contractor in your area should be able to do this for you.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    The skuttle fresh air damper you describe works in either horizontal or vertical applications just fine. It is best to use a 6" metal elbow to make the bend rather than the flexible duct. The height of the joist cavity limits vertical installations. If you have less than 16" from the top of the return air duct to the subfloor it won't fit.

    Go to and check out the installation instructions.

    It's a good practice to leave an access to the damper when putting up a ceiling.

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