Well here is the last bit that I know...
2 story, 2300 SQ foot house in Colorado
The duct work is 'professionally engineered' with hi/low returns in the master bedroom, the study area upstairs, a central hi/low return in the center hallway, and hallway to bedroom cross ventilation.
Downstairs there are two hi/low returns one in the 'great room' and one in the flex room/5th bedroom.
Upgrade options are... NO HEAT PUMP.
Lenox is the unit of choice.
2.5t 13ACX paired with the ML193
2.5t XC17 Single Stage paired with the ML193
1.5/3t XC21 two staged paired with the SLP98V variable capacity gas
The XC21 is not a 1.5/3 ton. It only has a 70% turndown on lo stage. Nice quiet unit.
Do you mind telling the reason for NO HEAT PUMP?
They are not offering it... I would loose much money if I tell them to not install anything and go with a 3rd party install. The price of the house would not reduce, and I'd have to spend 3-5k to install something outside their plan.... So, Im sticking with their plan.
Sorta... Its been painful actually. These builders are generally good if you fall in line and just buy in their box. Try and step outside it and its trouble... I should have just purchased a plot on my own...
Although, its a nice community with lots of great benefits.
builders have budgets, YOUR ideas don't coincide with there plan. especially if your plans will cost them money.
Originally Posted by Elwha101
although Im surprised your builder didn't jump on the chance to "bone you" on some up grades
My goal is to lose 10 pounds
only 15 more to go
OH they have... Granite is spendy...
They'll gladly upgrade the AC/Furnace at 33+% more than its worth..
Worth is a funny thing.
I'd get the best equipment offered or the worst. The best will probably work out quite well, and the worst will be less painful to throw away when you get fed up with the sacrifices associated with having it.
Anywhere in the middle is just bound to lead to years of regret and "I wonder if..."
Which makes more sense to you?
- turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
- leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%
DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!
Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org
, or RESNET
, and find an auditor near you.
I hope you are lucky enough to get a good duct system. Replacing equipment is nothing compared to a sucky duct system. Pay attention when the ducts go in and take pictures.
See pictures and explanations on Posts 37 and 38 at http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=910162&page=3.
The ductwork is sooo soo critical to getting it balanced, running quietly and efficiently. Bad ductowkr would be like building a race car with a really sweet 500HP Ferrari V12, and then slapping on the exhaust headers and pipes from a Jeep Wrangler, and a couple 1970's 2-barrrel carbs. You'd be lucky to get 200HP out of that thing.
Just changing the size of a couple ducts here and there can make all the difference.
Also, if you can, ask them to use higher quality supply grills. They have better throw, less restrictive and are quieter. But they cost 2-3X more than standard grills. I think they usually look better too.
It's a small job to buy replacement supply grilles. Rather than pay the builder's extra price, may be advantageous to buy replacements at a good price and just junk the standard ones. I did that on rooms where I wanted better airflow, my seller was Atlanta Supply. They are not the same brand as the ones (Hart and Cooley?) pros always seem to recommend but they have moveable metal vanes and look similar. Cost is up there by my homeowner standards.
While you are up on that ladder, I suggest you bring a tube of caulk and seal the duct box to the sheetrock. Odds are the builder will not have done that, and it represents a significant opportunity to suck in attic air -- if it's unconditioned space. I am reasonably sure no production builder is using sealed attics, am I right?
Hope this helps -- Pstu
Yes, it does help. Absolutly..