Hey,At the local gun club a member tried to sell us one and it's obvious the plates have lost the coating in splotches.It has the old kind with plastic coated distibutor etc.,and 502 still.Well since my labor is cheap($0) they want to know is there a way to come out winning with this machine.Owner wants $600,No way.I naturally told them no because of what I thought was nickel coming off,not sure.And because of a suspect leak,not freezing across the plate just on one end.11psi low side,180 high.Model and serial long worn and scratched off from moving.I need a little advice on this cuber.It has an old board with gear driven timer,large relays(I'm used to hoshizaki modern stuff)Obvious it has some kind of hot gas control for harvest.2 Evaporator model.Tell me it's JUNK,please.Any advice from experienced folks with these welcome.
Not necessarily junk... I have old Scotsman units with no nickel and have been that way for years. Still dropping ice and keeping up with small fast food units.
The old controls like that are cheap to replace too as they are not just OEM anymore... and they are easy to work on too.
I would think the question would be... is it worth 600?
Depends on the size (series) of the unit, rust factors and how close it runs to factory standards for that model.
Check out Scotsman's site for an old CME model
Thank you Sir!This is all I need.I will post the results of my findings later in this thread for those who may find themselves on the same path.
From the description, it sounds like a CM500. Go to the Scotsman Website, go to Tech Support > Service Manuals and there's a list of all their machines' service manuals in PDF format. There's another nameplate on these units inside the compressor section on the base. The book will tell you about this.
Scotsman evaps are notorious for the nickel plating flaking off almost immediately. It really has little effect on the operation. They will run forever with a bare evaporator surface.
Do a good leak checked on the machine. I'd first check the service shraders and caps. Then I found most CM cubers had leaking fan cycle controls at one time or another. The third most common leak point on these in my experience has been rub-throughs in the compressor compartment.....usually on cap tubes and such.
Find and fix the leaks and recharge with R402A (HP80) with about 90% of the nameplate charge and you should be go to go.........until more things turn up broken.
Is it junk? I suppose that would depend on who one is speaking to at the time.
We're not supposed to talk prices in this section, but since it's not working, I would give no more than half that amount for it considering the work that must be done.