Rheem Package Heat Pump won't cool
Have Rheem 2.5 ton RQPL-B030JK installed in rental house, and also had 10-inches insulation blown in to attic, and then replaced all windows with energy star rated new ones. Had an old Carrier 2-ton package A/C that kept house cold, and would cycle off even during the hottest of days. This Rheem only cools air down by 13-degrees, even with outside temp at mid 80's. Generally, with thermostat set on 72, inside temp will be 78, with Rheem having been running all night and all during the day.
Installation Contractor contacted Rheem Field Service Tech, who said to replace expansion valve and filter. After doing this, still only had 13-degree drop, with 88-degrees outside. Then Rheem tech had Contractor check reversing valve for leakage, and this checked good. Rheem Tech is now contacting manufacture for further help.
In meantime, I went to electric company and looked up Kwh usage during summer months before and after Rheem installed. This showed before, usage was less in July and Aug. with old 2-ton Carrier A/C package, and before extra insulation in attic and before new windows.
I keep wondering if compressor at fault? I believe it is a scroll type. Has anyone run into this before? What else could it be? All the ductwork has been checked, and rechecked. Did I simply get a "lemon" package? Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
obviously heat load calcs weren't done. Why did you go from a 2 ton to a 2.5 ton if the 2 ton worked fine. Then you increased insulation. probably should have decreased to a 1.5 ton (just a guess). My guess unit partially freezing coil due to low air flow. Energy use is up due to oversized unit
was this a direct replacement? did the ducts on the side supply and return match up? are they insulated?is the return resticted?is the filter clean? supply ducts open/good condition and not restricted?what was the readings, pressure high and low?amp readings?super heat / sub cool readings? proper volts going to unit. need more info from your hvac guy?where are you getting the return air? is the return pulling in any hot outside air? hot attic air!
Hey MM#7, thanks for the interest. I will try to answer some of your questions. Yes, you can say it was a direct replacement. It is right where the older unit sat, and the duct work connection did not need much modification. Everything is insulated. The service tech checked the tube connections going out from the main trunk, and before this, I wrapped stick-on insulation around these connections, whether they needed it or not. There is not air leaks. One of the first things the service tech looked for was a leak in the return trunk.
The service tech sort of freaked me out when he stuck his temp probe right into the flex hose closest to the A/C output. I thought this would leave a hole in the flex tube. But he assured me it wouldn't.
I asked him, and also asked in the beginning, is the trunk and number of floor registers good enough for the 2.5-ton package. Three of the employees told me there would not be a problem. Then I saw the spec's on the input, saying something like "no less than 24 -inches square. Mine at the house has a filter size of something like 20x20x1. They said it would be fine.
I told the service tech I would be looking on the Internet. He said he is really frustrated with it, and wished me luck, saying he hopes I can find an answer here. He did what Rheem calls a "Field Service Report" twice. I'm sure when I try to call him tomorrow, having to first call the company secretary, who then calls the tech who has caller ID blocked, to ask him to call me bach when he is not busy. When I get those readings, I will scan and post them here.
All the duct work is under the house. The return air comes form an openning in the hallway, low to the floor, and then thru a trunk about 14 feet long.
MM#7, didn't mean to write so much. But let me ask you something? There is a booklet full of chart temp readings, for all of the Package Heat Pumps like the one I got. I can easily find the chart for my model number. And it has different outdoor temps across the top. I do not understand the numbers below this. But it looks like to me, it is showing how much the cooled air should drop by, from the warm intake air. Wonder if I scanned this and posted it you could help me understand it, and have further proof that the 13-degree drop it is making means the unit is not working correctly.
Hey, before I post it, I think you can see it as a .pdf at Rheem.con. I'll check and get back with you for a link.
Let me say the Big THANK YOU for your interest in helping me. Hope to see another post form you soon.
Going 25% bigger after greatly reducing the cooling needs of the home just doesn't make sense
But undersized ducting should make for some pretty cold air, not a 13 degree drop. Wonder if 1 element is on?
How about measuring your supply air and then the return air and see what you get and is the air "blowing" through the supply registers. That will tell you what you want to know. Thank you very much
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Does the indoor fan blow out the supply grilles with as much force or velocity as the old Carrier unit?
The split should be at the unit return and supply as close to the unit as possible. Is that where the 13°F split was measured? Measure also the air temperatures at the return and supply ducts. Ideally the return temp in the house will be the same as the temperature measured at the return duct at the unit. The supply ductwork should not gain much heat either.
Have you checked to make shure the electric heaters are not on during cooling cycle?
MM#7, seems like it takes for ever for Mike (service tech from local HVAC company that installed Rheem) to hear back form this Rheem Field Service Tech. First time, it took about 2-weeks for Rheem tech to come back and say change the expansion valve and filter. (Part of this may have had to do with Mike having to fill out Rheem's pressure report.) Then it took about 2 more weeks, or longer for Rheem tech to tell Mike to check reversing valve leakage. Come tomorrow, it will be 1-week since Mike did this, and Rheem tech said he was going to contact Rheem main office for further help.
elroho grande, the very first thing Mike checked was the contactors for the heat strip elements, and then through out his first 4-hour service call, he checked those contactors half a dozen more.
lynn comstock, I'm not sure about the velocity of air out the floor registers. If I had to guess, I'd say about the same, or if anything, maybe the old Carrier blew out a little more. As to where we've measured these temp differences, I'm using an infra red temp gun, mid price range, not the cheaper less than $75 ones, and Mike is using digital temp pocket prob. We have measured at return grill and floor vents, and he's measured cooled air at first flex hose from metal trunk under hose. All readings are the same. The only difference we had was in outdoor temp. ...mine being from a solid object like the ground or wall, and his probe in the open air, but this was only a degree difference. He also used his volt meter with temp prob.
This problem has now been being looked at for over 2 months. I'm still wondering about the compressor. And will be asking Mike for a copy of his pressure readings.
Any other possibilities? Great ideas so far. If it is the compressor, wonder how eager Rheem will be to admit to it? and then replace it? Wish I had gone with a more expensive brand. Cheaper is not always better, huh?
MM#7, just walked in from cutting grass, and you cheered me up with a good laugh. You would never, in a million years, guess all the troubles I've had with new A/C systems. It took 2 and 1/2 years for this same installer company to get the ductless mini splits at my house straightened out! First was ComfortStar (Chinese wanna bes) and next is LG (Supposed to be almost top of the line), and just had to wait a month for LG to ship out parts to fix one of the indoor air handlers that was only 4 months old when circuit board went. This Rheem problem is at my rental house. But, yea, they are Big, and hopefully will do the right thing.
But, MM#7, let me ask you this? Rheem's warranty is one year parts and labor, and then 10 years parts. I did not know the A/C was not cooling till after I had to evict the previous renters. It was installed Nov. 09. But, I'm saying it was not working right from day-one. The first winter, the heat pump seemed really high in electric bill. But everyone else had high bills also. So, didn't go any further. This past winter would make the second one, and the bills seemed super high again. Not till this second summer did I check the temperature of the A/C and called in the problem. The fact that it is not any other repairable fix shows it had to have been messed up from install.
So, I ask, who will be paying the labor charges for all the service calls the installer, Mike, has had to make, and yet, nothing is fixed? I've not asked the installer company about this, yet. And actually they've only sent one bill that they told me to not worry about (the first trip when everything was checked and Mike determind he needed to contact Rheem Field Tech for help. ...billed me $375 for his 4 hours and travel.) Later, when he went to put in expansion valve, said to not worry about this $375, that I'd get another bill for $600-something after the new valve goes in. Well, the valve did not fix it, and they have not sent the bill either.
Who is going to pay for all this work they have done, to not have it fixed yet?
[QUOTE=eddie27970;11047582]...And will be asking Mike for a copy of his pressure readings.
Any other possibilities? Yeah, one circuit of the evaporator coil might be restricted and not feeding. They may have mistaken this for a faulty TXV or drier problem as the split and pressure symptoms would work out about the same. Great ideas so far. If it is the compressor, wonder how eager Rheem will be to admit to it? and then replace it? Sure. ...QUOTE]Share the readings and other data before and after the TXV and drier were replaced.