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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Hockessin,DE
    Posts
    88

    the guy said i don't have to pay until i'm fully satisfied

    i have paid him 1/3 so far... and he has been very conscious of doing the right thing so far.
    i hope he does the same when it comes to the liner

    he says he'll drain the condensate from the A/C to outside - but the humidifier is the one he wants to drain in the basement french drain.

    as far as the liner - I don't think he tried hard enough - he did not use any proving nose cone (even as a layman I could tell that was one thing that was needed).

    i will suggest trying to break mortar up is also a great idea...

    as far getting it through the bend - he has already sealed the flue-pipe from the furnace indoors with concrete - not sure how he is going to attach the liner to the flue.

    thanks again for the advice...
    i could mail you a gift card...and i mean it.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Bartlett, IL
    Posts
    6,619
    Bayvent kits are a different animal than Chimney adapter kits, and your explanation of it is correct, sometimes this is the only way though.

    I really don't know how much efficiency you'll lose, maybe 2% if that.

    If efficiency is the concern, why not a 90plus furnace, and pulling a 4" liner should be a breeze, if you have a gas heated water tank.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Bartlett, IL
    Posts
    6,619
    Oh, and I'll take you up on that gift card....

  4. #17
    I'm sorry but I don't care what they promised or said.Lets go back to the condenser that they installed on a new pad and said it must be pitched so it can drain. THANK YOU!!!

    pea gravel has many purposes and under a pad is one.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Bartlett, IL
    Posts
    6,619
    Originally posted by chicago tom
    I'm sorry but I don't care what they promised or said.Lets go back to the condenser that they installed on a new pad and said it must be pitched so it can drain. THANK YOU!!!

    pea gravel has many purposes and under a pad is one.
    Yeah, I do have to agree with ya on that one, WTF? "we have to pitch the condenser" OK........

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Northern Indiana
    Posts
    31
    The thermostat is in a good spot , you may need better return from your bedrooms,unless t-stat is close to entry door or outside wall , or windows that get lots of sun. As for chimney, if height is 30 ft, buy a 40+ ft liner do not strech out till after done, youll have more flexability turning liner from top letting gravity make it turn like a slinky, once youve reached the opening , 2 people twisting in opposite directions pull the liner till its extended. you will have excess but cheaper in long run.you may attach a weight with wire to cone also, just be carefull not to tear aluminum.check cost differance between liner and b-vent and consider the appearance of B-vent on outside of home.Also depending on codes your tile chimney may be ok the way it is , as long as its not too large in diameter for 100k furnace plus water heater , if there is one.i dont have size tables in front of me but if tile is around 30 sq in it should be ok for furn. and w/h.at close to 140 btus. The condensate drain ,since theres a humidifier, avoid a pump, but if you have to use one, pump it to a main pvc drain using a 3/8 od barb to threaded end and seal it , the heat pump could slant away from home slightly to prevent condensate from outdoor unit from building up ice, but it should work fine level,it would look much better.
    Just when I thought i knew something,I came to this site and realized , I KNOW NOTHING....

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    burlington county n.j.
    Posts
    9,642
    not sure about american standard but lennox recomends 2degree pitch on outdoor unit slabs right in install sheets. as far as chimney liner if he can not do it let him hire a chimney guy who can. another motor to blow air up chimney is just something else to go bad, besides extra air sucked from house.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    1,996
    I'd double cyheck that chimney height. A single story building should be about 20' not 30'. A good liner job should not try to make the last 90 bend to go horizontal.
    Proper way is to cut a hole in the side of the flex liner and come into the liner with rigid vent piping. Don't understand why he already cemented the flue pipe from the inside of the house. Isn't the base of the liner going to tie into anything?

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