the installers completed installing most everything except the condensate pump, liner and humidifier. They are coming back tomorrow to complete these and also to properly setup the heatpump. He has set it to operate on Aux heat (furnace).
The situation is the thermostat had to be installed in a different location.
Former location: In the hallway to the 3 bedrooms
New location: Living room (with slanting vaulted ceilings) near a high return.
The problem now is the bedrooms are much cooler than the living room and the thermostat needs to be set at 75 to get 68 in the bed rooms.
Should I get them to relocate the t-stat back to the hallway - but this would mean running th ewires through the attic and outside and then back into the basement. he said that might mean the wires wear out faster and may need replacement every 4-5 years.
Not really sure what my options are now. should I just relocate the t-stat. What is the ideal location for at-stat anyway?
Any suggestions/help appreciated.
Raised ranch, with 3 bedrooms to one side of the main floor and living area with vaulted ceilings (1500 sq.ft) and a fourth bed room and living area in the basement (750 sq.ft).
the furnace is in the basement on the opposite side of the house near the outside wall chimney.
Freedom 80% single stage 100k furnace: AUD1B100A9451A
Heritage 12SEER 3 ton heat pump: 2A6H2036A1000A (not programmed yet)
High efficiency coil: TXCO36S3HPD
Fossil fuel kit: TAYPLUS103A
ACONT802 (7-Day Digitial Programmable 3 Heat / 2 Cool)
Yet to be installed:
Aluminum Chimney Liner kit : they are finding it hard to pull the liner through the chminey since it has an offset and the terracota lining isn't smooth because of the excess cement mortar in bettween the terracota tiles.
He suggest going back to the Bayvent (to pass code) or do 2 smaller liners - or do neither and see if it passes inspection (since that was what the other installer was going to do). any thoughts here?
Condensate pump and Humidifier (AHUMD300)
He suggests draining the humidifier into the french drain instead of through the condensate pump to prevent it from freezing during winter.
sorry for the long post.. but I'm not sure what I've gotten myself into... but my installer seems very knowlegeable and was the best I could find and he wasn't the most expensive or the cheapest.
I have my before and after pictures ready and am not sure where to post them.
thanks again everyone...you all are simply awesome!!
another question: the outdoor unit is not level at all
the outdoor unit is not level slanted to one direction..
when I asked the installer about it..
he siad it shouldn't be level to prevent water collection...
slanting it to one direction helps the water to drain off...
does this make any sense?
Do you have a laundry tub in the basement near the furnace?
If yes then have them run the tubing from the pump to the tub.
What size liner are they trying to pull?
What is the btu's on your water heater i.d. tag?
What was wrong with the old stat wires?
laundry tub is on the other side of the house
the liner looks like its 6" or 7" diameter - Zflex
I now have a heat-pump and furnace - dual fuel setup - so they said they had to pull new wires.
the water heater is a Ruud - RP40-30S-1 - 36,000 btu
Call the company and ask the boss to come to your house,because his installers should find a new career.
Yes the outside unit should be level and if you look down inside the unit you will see drain holes at the bottom on all sides so why should it be pitched.
Did they set your a/c on the old pad or a new pad?
To size a liner you must ad the total btu's of your furnace 100'000+36,000 for your w.h.=136,000,Then you must check the height of your chimney height from the top to the top of your furnace. approx is ok for now.With a raised ranch it's probably about 30'
I'm checking my chart and 136,000 btus they should install a 5" liner
Where do you live?I'm in chicago
a/c is set on a new pad
well the installer is the owner - its a small 3 employee company...
the guy seems very professional and reliable - all the equipment is here exactly as promised and even a couple of free upgrades
to a better furnace AUD1B100A9451A (from AUD100C936K)
and a better humidifier AHUMD300 (from AHUMD200)
he used to work for the biggest and most reputed and most expensive local company for a long time... but he seems fairly young.
but apart from the t-stat possibly not being in the right location and outdoor unit not being level...
i'm not sure what else a BETTER Professional would catch.
thanks for the reply..i'm in Delaware
yes. looks like the liner is either 5" or 6" - I'll check tomorrow. you are right the chimney is about 30' give or take a few.
any ideas on how to get the liner in through a bend?
there seems to be a bend in the terracota lined flue - apart from the mortar jutting out at joints.
he is probably going to want to do a Bayvent kit instead - but that is not what I want because of the loss in efficiency.
any ideas on what a good location should be for the t-stat?
What are you talking about with this "Bayvent kit" are you talking about a Chimney adapter kit?....
There is a way of pulling a cone thru the chimney to remove some of the extra mortar and to get through a slight bend, but I don't know what your situation with the chimney looks like from here.
Is the turn hard?
Also, is this chimney on the outside wall of your home or does it run through the inside?
Is he using a proving cone to pull the liner or is he just trying to work it from the top?
I have had the same problem with to much mortar and I will put 10' pieces of 1"blk pipe together and put it down the chimney and break the mortar apart.If he sold you a 80% with a liner thats what you should get and at his loss not yours.
can you run the wire through the in side of a closet and then out the wall?
Bayvent kit: yes its the chimney adapter kit
this supposedly grabs more air from the furnace to pass through to the chimney to prevent condensation. (pros.. how far am I off on this simplistic explanation)
they said the bend in the chimey is almost an elbow. Its an outside wall chimney.
I suggested that they narrow down the edge of the liner to form a cone - but they said -they still would have a hard time getting through the bend and they don't want to kink the liner - and that apparently can cause a bigger problem with exhaust not getting out properly.
"There is a way of pulling a cone thru the chimney to remove some of the extra mortar and to get through a slight bend"
Could you pl. describe a bit more on how you could accomplish this...
I'll post exact dimensions of the chimney and the terracota lining and the Z-flez lining tomorrow.
as far as your drain problem he should have looked at that when he sold you the pump and the humidifier.You said your ldry tub is at the other end of your basement,is your ceiling drop or dry wall?
whats your address so I can bill you? Just kidding
A proving cone is a metal cone...one end gets screwed to the liner and the other end you connect a rope,at the other end of the rope you tie a 3/4" or 1" blk. union and drop it down the chimney. one man pulls from the bottom while the other twists and pushes the liner from the top.