Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Lexington, NC
    Posts
    64

    CVHE-020 capacitor grenade

    I have a CVHE grenading the oil pump start capacitor. Chiller has been offline for 4 years with power on to the heater oil is hot and sump is full. quoted new pump and pump motor. am I missing something?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    45th Parallel
    Posts
    954
    My first reply didn't stick so i will try again.
    After you change oil pump, I would drop brg insp cover and try to spin shaft with a large socket and BIG cheater bar. Have oil pump running while you do this to get oil circulated in journal bearing.
    If this motor sat fro 4 years and wasn't turned over every 6 months or so, the front journal bearing likely has taken a set.

    If you can't get shaft to turn using a large cheater bar, then try starting with starter, but leave the refrig out of it. Will save you a step if it trips on O.L. at startup. Cause you be looking at an overhaul then.
    “If your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.” ~Henry J. Kaiser

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    ottawa canada
    Posts
    2,064
    Have you tried replacing the capacitor and relay to get the pump to run ??
    Thats a whole lot of work and expense to pull the charge to do the pump etc when all you might need is a 20$ relay
    The 64 roars to life Whoo hoo ...shes a rolling chassis .
    You bend em" I"ll mend em" !!!!!!!
    I"m not a service tech.. I"m a thermodynamic transfer analyst & strategic system sustainability specialist
    Best Austin Healey In Show twice in 2013 .....All those hrs paid off .

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Lexington, NC
    Posts
    64

    changed capacitor

    I changed the capacitor Trane didnt have the relay in stock and they dont give the specs on this current relay. relay was not stuck closed when I checked it. the oil pump has to be tight sitting that long.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    ottawa canada
    Posts
    2,064
    the oil pump has to be tight sitting that long.


    Why????

    I would be changing the relay and capacitor first before you look like an idiot for doing a whole bunch of work that wasnt needed ??????
    The 64 roars to life Whoo hoo ...shes a rolling chassis .
    You bend em" I"ll mend em" !!!!!!!
    I"m not a service tech.. I"m a thermodynamic transfer analyst & strategic system sustainability specialist
    Best Austin Healey In Show twice in 2013 .....All those hrs paid off .

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Lexington, NC
    Posts
    64
    I replaced the capacitor. the relay is not in stock trane has to get it from the factory. the oil pump will run but the relay is holding in too long due to the high amperage of the motor. if the relay holds in too long the capacitor explodes. the relay is not stuck closed. this is a current sensing relay isint it?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Dixiana, AL
    Posts
    2,610
    I responded in the AOP section, also, so here we go again.

    That's a start capacitor. If it's blowing up, that means it's in the circuit past start up. You've probably got yourself a bad current sensing relay, or it's wired wrong.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    366
    If the motor is drawing lock rotor current and the start winding is not dropping out you need to change the relay or at least pull the wire and see what happens.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    The Hot South
    Posts
    1,317
    Quote Originally Posted by reefermadness View Post
    I replaced the capacitor. the relay is not in stock trane has to get it from the factory. the oil pump will run but the relay is holding in too long due to the high amperage of the motor. if the relay holds in too long the capacitor explodes. the relay is not stuck closed. this is a current sensing relay isint it?
    Why don't you just wait for the relay to come in? If you expedite it, they will drop ship it from the factory.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Lexington, NC
    Posts
    64
    I cant find the close and drop out amperage on the relay. any one know what it is?


    Thanks,

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Prattville, Alabama
    Posts
    2,069
    I always change both capacitor and relay together. Cheap insurance for customer. Also, does this chiller have a refrigerant pump? If so, the pump shaft could be seized. I think I remember hearing some were assembled at the factory with excess Locktite 515 and some would find its way to that shaft and seize it up. I do remember on one startup having to open that pump and spinning the shaft manually when it failed to test run. I always did that test prior to evacuation so I would save a whole lot of additional time and effort dealing with the charge. Just remove pump cover to access the nut on the end of the shaft. Of course if the chiller is charged you will need to recover it first.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Va.
    Posts
    180
    Put a hard start capacitor on it.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    A land down under
    Posts
    309
    Quote Originally Posted by reefermadness View Post
    I cant find the close and drop out amperage on the relay. any one know what it is?


    Thanks,
    Not sure on the design your working on without serial numbers but for the liquid refrigerant pump 3/4 hp motor design the relay is rated to pick-up at 24.75 amps and drop out when the motor current drops to 20.45 amps. The original oil pump 1/4 hp motor design relay was 10.8 and 9.0 amps
    Necessity is the mother of invention

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event