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  1. #118
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    19
    Martin 2010: you say watch the pressure drop. I suppose this is the same thing as saying be sure the static pressure is not too high? Since my static pressure is now .7, I plan to remove the Clean Effects and just rely on a MERV 13 Aprilaire 2010 5" media filter (I am now double-filtered with both).

    How low should the static pressure be in your opinion? I was told that the installer aimed for .2 or .3 and felt good about .4 and OK as long as it did not rise above .5 (of course he changed his tune after he found it was .7 and said this advanced system was designed to run as high as .9 with no ill effects. I suppose proper vent types, and correctly sized and installed ductwork also affect the static pressure.

    note: my Trane system with the problem smell: XL16i (2 ton heat pump), 2-1/2 ton coil (oversized), and XV80i (60,000 btu gas furnace). My other Trane system (which I think probably also has the DSS problem but not as bad yet): XL16i (3 ton heat pump), 3 ton coil, XV80i (80,000 btu gas furnace).

  2. #119
    I have recently had DSS on my own HVAC system, a 3 year old Nordyne P3RD. I had tried a few of the top disinfecting coil cleaners but the smell would go away for a few days and then come back. I know this is a big no no in HVAC but I was able to remove the smell by scrubbing the coil with a 10:1 ratio of water/bleach and cleaning the coil with Coil-Rite. I can assure you that the coil is undamaged and smells clean. The bleach was thoroughly rinsed off with warm water a few minutes after it was applied to ensure there was no residue left.

    The reason I did this is because the system is out of warrenty, so either I replace the coil because of DSS or I replace the coil because of corrosion if bleach would have damaged it. Thankfully, I didn't have to replace the coil at all and I have been DSS free for over 6 months.

    Be careful, I wouldn't do it if the system was under warrenty.

  3. #120
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    79
    Could it be low system airflow?
    Could the AC system be sized too large?

    Either would cause the AC system to cycle On/Off repeatedly, raising the humidity level, contributing to the smell?

  4. #121
    The filter wont have any play on what type of smells your coil may be producing. Now a cheaper filter will allow more dust/allergens/agents to coat your coil possibly increasing odors emitting from the coil. Thats why it is key to buy an efficient filter for protection. Don't ever let someone tell you to buy a cheap throw away! As far as the dirty sock syndrome goes it really happens what would seem randomly in homes. A coated coil does help this issue. Usually the smell fades after several cycles. No harm being done. All depending on the style UV light system you had installed and the radiation intensity you may be getting full benefits from the UV, or next to none. Consider the UV light like a tanning bed, you cannot have it partially tanning you and expect the same results. Full coverage is key and most UV systems out there only apply close to 40-60% coverage. if that!

    Want an efficient filter geared to last and protect your system?

    www.enviromaxfilter.com

  5. #122
    After 13 years of discomfort each summer and thousands spent!!! Thinking I had Dirty sock syndrome or a dirty coil
    Great news, the plumber found the source of stink (sewer gas) entering my house via positive pressure.
    Plumber did smoke test on sewer line today, be for any work was started. It revealed that indeed the sewer gas was not making it past condensation p-trap, but was coming from a uncapped T in the vent stack that was intended to be used to run A/C condensation line when house was built and a unit installed 30 years ago. That said stink is no more!
    “So sad, but so true “

  6. #123
    In the last year or two I have been noticing "the smell" mostly in the first of the winter. This morning it was particularly bad and I have been asthmatic all day. I have noticed some small puddles at times in the crawlspace and will look into a fix. I think my system is a Trane but am not going to go look right now, any case it is HE, this house was built in 2004 and it was built with everything HE in mind... (I can't wait to find out what probems the new lightbulb police cause). I am going to make a call and get my coils cleaned next week.. however...

    The real purpose of my post is to throw something into the mix that may help. I found this prduct when looking for something to treat the housedust problem in my parents home. I get pretty bad allergic reactions if I begin to look through anything there, they live in south GA, about 60 miles north of Tallahassee, Florida. It is very humid there, there is plenty of "old book smell" on things. My eyes swell and itch if I look through old school annuals or other books from there. I researched online and found that it is a fungus. Then I found a product that claims to treat rooms, crawlspaces, whole houses, or a container with some books in it. I ordered a pack to treat some books but have not used it yet. After wheezing and coughing all day today and figuring it has something to do with the nasty smell from the heat pump this morning I looked the stuff up again.
    The ingredient is CLO2 and it is a slow release. I would assume you wouldn't want to use it in any place with a pilotlight. I am an exterminator andam always concerned about pilotlights when dusting or fogging... but anyway... the company is OdorXit and they are here: http://www.odorxit.com/?ucatalog&prod=clo2s
    I don't know if it will work but I may try getting the correct ammount for my crawlspace when we will be away for a few days. Maybe open up the case to the crawlspace unit and let it work the whole crawl for a few days. It is supossed to kill fungus and spores.
    Has anyone tried this or does anyone know anything about it? I looks like it might work to me.
    I will try to get off my rear and treat the books next week to see hw well it works on them.

    Thanks,

    Julien in GA

  7. #124
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI/Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    6,535
    I suggest monitoring the %RH in your home and crawlspace. If the droplets of moisture are on the earthside of plastic moisture barrier, not to worry. If the droplets are on the top of the moisture barrier, close the vents and get a good dehumidifier going to reduce the dew point of the air. You should be <60%RH in the crawlspace. Plastic vapor barrier, closed vents to the outside, and some dehumidification will keep the crawlspace <50%RH.

    For the home, suggest <50%RH in the home. During high cooling loads, the a/c should be able to do this. During the shoulder season, a whole dehumidifier is ideal.
    If you heat pump has extended wet spots in the pan, expect potiential wet sack. Clean throughly and avoid extended wet spots. A whole house dehumidifier or operating the fan in the "on" mode during the heating season may help.
    Regards TB
    Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
    Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
    Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"

  8. #125
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    7

    DSS continues

    This unit was installed in Apr '09. Contractor tried cleaning and UV lights. There has been some minor mitigation, but the phenomenon persists. UV lights help some, but can't hit all surfaces. I'm now back to getting bids on an LP furnace, using the coil only in AC mode in the summer. Expensive, but little else to try now, I guess.

    Anyone know if the Trane coated coil can be coupled to a York Heat Pump. (I think the coil is actually an Aspen).

    Frustrated beyond description.

  9. #126
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    19
    I had DSS. I got coated coils (new from Trane, no charge, under ten-year warranty). Now, no DSS. But, something worse. I'll call it CCS (coated coil syndrome). There is now a musty, dusty, pungent, sickening smell accompanied by a metallic taste and irritation to the lungs. The "smell" part is not near as bad as DSS (I could live with the "smell" part of CCS); but the "effects" part is much worse. If I stay in the house for hours, my eyes sting (a little), I get a headache (slight), I get dizzy (a little), I can taste the metallic taste (slightly), and my lungs get irritated (a little). If I stay in the house all day, the smell and the effects are cumulative and I feel like the effects are making me sick.

    This effect was very strong in the beginning (a few weeks); such that I HAD TO open all the windows AND leave the house. Then, it seemed to lessen gradually over the next couple of months and I thought it would go away. It has now been about nine months and the CCS is not nearly as strong and I cope with it routinely now by opening the windows at night for about an hour (with all systems completely off) before going to bed and leaving them off all night.

    It seems to me that the coated coils are off-gassing something in the coating; and I am hoping that it eventually dissipates entirely . . . before it kills me through the cumulative effect on my lungs.

    The product was Bronz-Glow coating of new Trane coils. It was slightly tacky the day the technician installed them (two systems) and the smell was evident even before they were installed (emanating from the coils). They were coated at ASI Coatings in Semmes, Alabama. They and the parent company are pretty closed-mouth about what it might be . . . claiming that I am the only one who has ever complained and that their product is perfectly safe and effective.

    I did discover one large A/C company (Central City Air) in Houston, Texas that recognized the problem and said that in their experience it would take about two years for the off-gassing to dissipate and that they had learned to solve the problem by replacing the offending coated coils with new uncoated coils that were NOT A-coils, but WERE slab coils and that the slab coils did not need to be coated because they would not develop DSS in the first place like the A-coils would.

    Any further information or help understanding and/or solving this problem appreciated.

  10. #127
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    7

    Am going to try adding one more UV Light

    If that doesn't work, am considering a coil coating by a company called ElectroFin. I do hope it's not the same as the Bronz Glow coating process that you mention KOTM. You have me a bit worried now. I cannot imagine dealing with this new problem of eye irritation, etc. that you mention. Let me know how this works out.

    The slab coil approach is interesting. I no longer care about efficiency. Can one get a slab coil where currently an a-coil is installed? My set up is an upflow unit in the basement. Who makes a slab coil that would fit, I wonder?

    Am at my wits end with this DSS. The dealer has given up, and just wants me to go away. The LP furnace strategy is problematic due to tank placement, etc. (and very expensive).

    victor.adams@gmail if anyone wants to contact me directly.

  11. #128
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Posts
    131
    Quote Originally Posted by 96gsxr750 View Post
    If the coil cleaning does not resolve the complaint to a satisfactory level, the next thing you could try would be to clean the coil again and apply a coating of Alathene II, a special spray designed to continuously protect coils from fouling caused by airborne contaminates. Past that there is not anything you can do since it is an environmental issue that is causing the bacteria to grow and accumulate. If anyone else has any other information about this please post up.
    Is this different from what I have found here about this chemical?


    http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_...DIST_NR=040536

  12. #129
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    120
    Install an Oxy Quantum with an O3 oxidizer , should cure your problems.. EPA safe will not generate more than 0.5 ppm , have one in my home and Im a smoker, would never know

  13. #130
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Posts
    131
    The Respicare unit (DP18W9L, DP36W16L, DPL18W9L, DPL36W16L) which Nordyne uses also has a oxidizing substrate. This is the same type used in hospital. I was told though that those with bronchial problems may be irritated by it's effects.

    This may have been a ploy by the American Standard manufacturing rep to sell me their Ozone treatment product. He claimed it can be adjusted so the air smells "dewey sweet". It raised question in my mind as high Ozone exposure can cause ill effects to humans, pets, furniture, paint, wood etc.

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