06-14-2013, 10:59 PM
Yes that is true.... But if it is 0.5 ppm or below that is safe levels according to the EPA which is 0.8 ppm,.. the product that im talking about also has settings.. Think about it after a Lightning storm it is much higher, but Nature takes care of that... This product can be turned ( ON ) and ( OFF ) and it will clean out the Duct System, It will take care of his problem ... I specialize in IAQ...
06-14-2013, 11:24 PM
Not questioning what you have suggested and thanks for the additional information.
Originally Posted by bob Juliano
I do know there are manufacturers which produce portable equipment that are placed in a closed room to bombard it with ozone to kill off mildew, mold etc. That is part of where my concerns are from. From what you have said I understand there will be will no high amounts of ozone (above the EPA limits you have mentioned) pushed out into the living space.
06-14-2013, 11:39 PM
Thank you Monakre4 Mostly after Fires and water damage... but you are right to much 03 is dangerous.. you want clean out the system... not dry clean your Lungs...
06-29-2013, 01:10 AM
I know it's been awhile since you posted, but have you resolved your CCS? We have a new system but our coils are not coated but have the exact same problem you are describing! We had DSS and replaced our system so I know the difference in smells. I get a tight tingling in my chest and it smells like wet dust/metal and I get a metallic taste in my mouth. The problem actually got worse when my husband sprayed coil cleaner on the coils. I agree with you, I'd almost rather have DSS back than this smell and feeling.
Originally Posted by KOTM
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06-29-2013, 07:05 AM
I have had an issue with a couple customers and the off gassing of epoxy coated coils (replaced because DSS).
Originally Posted by 2HotinTexas
What we have done is submerged each coil in dawn dish washing detergent. Let them soak for several hours, rinse, dry and reinstall. This seemed to help the smell from the epoxy coating.
07-22-2013, 01:02 PM
UV lights are not a waste, I have seen them benifit customers equipment. If you are getting that sock odor, it sounds like there may be to much moisture in the air handler. You best bet would be to have your fan speed and refrigerant charge adjusted to factory specs and have your air volume measured to ensure proper CFM. Once that is good have your ducts sanitied. They have oxine based cleaners that do not have fragrances.
08-14-2013, 07:32 PM
I find the prospect of problems from coated coils very alarming. When we had a Rheem installed a few years ago we didn't have any problem. Now we need to replace our other unit, and are considering a Trane. Does Trane have uncoated aluminum coils?
08-17-2013, 05:08 PM
Here are some fun facts:
It is generally accepted that Dirty Sock Syndrome is caused by a bacteria formed on the evaporator coil and then blown into the air.
Many manufacturers have replaced copper/aluminum coils with all aluminum coils.
Copper in HVAC systems limited bacteria growth to levels 99.99% lower than the levels on aluminum. So says a report "Characterization and Control of the Microbial Community Affiliated with Copper or Aluminum Heat Exchangers of HVAC Systems" by M.G. Schmidt, et. al., published on line at Springerlink.com in 2012. The report gives the results of a study done at the University of South Carolina. http://www.antimicrobialcopper.com/m...hmidt-2012.pdf
While manufacturers may save a few dollars by using aluminum instead of copper, it may not be the best for your health.
08-17-2013, 05:22 PM
I thought aluminum coils were better because they don't corrode, causing leaks, which cause standing water and mold.
Originally Posted by rabbitdog
08-17-2013, 11:50 PM
I would love to have my old copper/aluminum coil back; it lasted 15 years and didn't smell. My new all aluminum coil started smelling in the first year. I am in the process of trying to get a new coated coil under warranty. Supposedly coating the coil is the only full proof way to fix Dirty Sock Syndrome. Just my experience, I hear Dirty Sock Syndrome is relatively rare, so I guess I was just one of the unlucky ones. I think they went to all aluminum to save money. If 2% of them develop dirty sock syndrome, they just replace the coil with a new coated coil; that's cheaper than coating all of them from the beginning or using copper.
Originally Posted by Angelique
08-22-2013, 02:37 PM
My Trane heat pump system was installed in a new build earlier this year.
After a recent week of nice weather where we didn't have humidity & the AC ran zero times, this week was different & back came the AC automatically.
@ first I thought it was just me but the stale musty smell became stronger as though the AC didn't run at all in our master bedroom.
With my house being certified as being 50% tighter than the avg build, I am afraid this is going to hang around awhile.
I have another posts out there currently that provides some equipment background. Since naturally, I thought it was a setting or system issue.
Speaking to the installer today. Stay tuned.
Thanks all in advance for providing this insightful thread.
08-23-2013, 05:18 AM
Over the years, I have worked on several homes with bacteria in them that when mixed with water and some organic material in the air, and allowed to stagnate, generate forms of dirty sock odors. The water will get slimy have the odor. Once the space gets contaminated, enough bacteria spores are in the air and will contaminate water on coiling coils or evaporating pads in humidifiers. It takes a couple days for the water to develop the odor and slimy feel.
Originally Posted by Ben44
An part of the a/c or humidifier that remains wet is for days is capable of having this problem once contaminated.
I have fixed this problem by avoiding stagnate water and drying all surfaces for several hours every day. Cooling coil self clean themselves by condensate flowing off the coil and down the drain. Drain pans can not have wet spots that do not dry completely everyday. Any wet spots under legs/feet in the drain pan must be eliminated.
Fan "on" for several hours without wetting the coil/pan will dry most equipment enough to avoid bacterial growth. Of course the space must be <50%RH to providing a drying source for the air handling equipment. In addition, I suggest that all occupied space needs a fresh air change every 4-5 hours to purge indoor pollutants and renew oxygen. At a minimum, fresh air ventilation is required when occupied. In green grass climates, supplemental dehumidification is required to maintain <50%RH during low/no cooling loads and +55^F outdoor dew points.
These are just a few things I have noticed. Most people are not sensitive to these issues. A few sensitized occupants become very ill when exposed to this problem.
Operating the fan in the "on" mode for several hours when the a/c is not needed may the first thing to try. Inspecting the pan/coil area of the a/c for wet spots is next. Maintain <50%RH and fresh air ventilation is next.
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
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10-14-2013, 06:34 PM
commercial building odor problem
The comments on this site have really been helpful and interesting.
I have a commercial building with a built up system and a big trane compressor and a wall of coils etc.
my hvac guys have cleaned the coils several times with blue eagle clean solution but the odor keeps returning.
we are going to give it a shot with bleach next. not sure how much to cut the bleach with water, will ask my contractor but i am interested if anyone here has tried this and has had any luck with bleach. [we will do it at night so the bleach odor doesn't circulate through the building with tenants inside.