RTAA High Oil Temperature

[Eastcoastchiller]

Anyone know why I would get a high oil temperature latched fault if the temp is below 150? Circuit does not seem to load and unload properly either. I checked the solenoid operation while running using the toggle method and it does respond but not on the UCM. I was gearing toward a bad/faulty sensor since the superheat is running between 2.9 and 3.4 and everywhere in between.

[milkyway]

clean condenser and make sure fans are running.,

[poppop]

Yeah, what he said.....

[R123]

Anyone know why I would get a high oil temperature latched fault if the temp is below 150? Circuit does not seem to load and unload properly either. I checked the solenoid operation while running using the toggle method and it does respond but not on the UCM. I was gearing toward a bad/faulty sensor since the superheat is running between 2.9 and 3.4 and everywhere in between.

What do you mean by circuit not loading and unloading properly?

[Southern Mech]

oil temp trips most of the time come from fan's or dirty coils. and if you don't use a pressure washer, you are pissing in the wind.

and I am curious of the loading thing, start up chiller, should run unloaded for a min or so, then work itself up to 100% or so depending on load, then as evap load diminishes the compressor will unload/ step unload down to 48-50% RLA, until conditions exhist that it doesnt need that circuil to maintain LWT setpoint.

[servicetrane]

provides more data on oil temperature, complete model of the machine, you have to load the test manual compressors

[synergy]

Probably does it's trick at night when your not looking. Low load, high head, high superheat, high oil temp.

[jayguy]

Anyone know why I would get a high oil temperature latched fault if the temp is below 150? ...

the high temperature diagnostic trips at 170F...so how close do you think you are to this temperature? you say under 150F but what is it really?

what is your ambient temperature? the oil temperature is going to run about 40-60F higher than ambient IF EVERY THING IS CLEAN AND EVERY FAN IS RUNNING AND IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.

if your ambients are higher than 120F, then you may trip on high oil temperature even with a clean condenser.

of course, you could have a failing sensor.

[Eastcoastchiller]

I replaced all sensors except for leaving/entering water temp. I thoroughly cleaned all condenser coils and checked rotation and amperage on fans. Everything seems to be operating good. Circuit A oil temp gets as high as 150 Circuit B gets to 170 and runs a while and shuts down. Yes it seems to happen after we leave the site and once water temp is near setpoint. I was thinking that there might not be enough oil in there? I am going to check that on my next trip there. When I changed the 204 sensor there wasn't any trace of oil on the thermistor which made me think there was not enough oil. It will occasionally run below 150 when unloaded. But immediately goes up to 168-170 when loaded up. Head is 270 and the ambient is right around 102. Full serial and model to follow.

[R123]

Everything your describing points to a female step loader that isn't energizing. When a circuit runs fully unloaded for an extended period of time, the oil temp will keep rising and the controller will energize the female step loader to drop the oil temp. You stated the circuit doesn't load/unload properly. When the circuit starts, it should pull about 40-45% RLA, then the female loader will step the current up to about 50-55% RLA, then the male unloader valve will modulate with infanate control. If you don't see that first "step" your female unloader isn't working. Also, check for magnetism at the coil with a pocket screwdriver to check if it's working electrically but the valve could be mechanically stuck.

[Southern Mech]

Everything your describing points to a female step loader that isn't energizing. When a circuit runs fully unloaded for an extended period of time, the oil temp will keep rising and the controller will energize the female step loader to drop the oil temp. You stated the circuit doesn't load/unload properly. When the circuit starts, it should pull about 40-45% RLA, then the female loader will step the current up to about 50-55% RLA, then the male unloader valve will modulate with infanate control. If you don't see that first "step" your female unloader isn't working. Also, check for magnetism at the coil with a pocket screwdriver to check if it's working electrically but the valve could be mechanically stuck.

agree with the above 100%

[smith21]

Having a problem with a 19xrv. Thrust bearing and oil temps climb up to 180. We changed oil cooler/motor cooling filter drier but the nothing changed. Chief engineer tells me that a piece of what he was told was for sound attenuation was removed from the discharge line at at the isolation valve. It was standing up on the top of the condenser and extended thru the isolation valve in the discharge line. This was discovered when they tried to isolate the condenser to pump out the evaporator to replace sight glass o-rings. Machine was put back together but not ran as it is used mainly for winter cooling as it has hotgas bypass. Could this problem be caused by Material from the compressor finding its way into the float chamber? Motor temp is ok 56 degrees.

[R123]

Having a problem with a 19xrv. Thrust bearing and oil temps climb up to 180. We changed oil cooler/motor cooling filter drier but the nothing changed. Chief engineer tells me that a piece of what he was told was for sound attenuation was removed from the discharge line at at the isolation valve. It was standing up on the top of the condenser and extended thru the isolation valve in the discharge line. This was discovered when they tried to isolate the condenser to pump out the evaporator to replace sight glass o-rings. Machine was put back together but not ran as it is used mainly for winter cooling as it has hotgas bypass. Could this problem be caused by Material from the compressor finding its way into the float chamber? Motor temp is ok 56 degrees.

Welcome my friend.

You need to start a NEW thread by going back to the main chiller forum and clicking the "new thread" button in the upper left hand corner. You don't want to hijack eastcoastchiller's thread about a Trane RTAA.