Oil Fired Bioler install

[selfemployed]

Nice looking job. Check the savings this season.

[rich pickering]

Originally posted by hvac-tech-lane

Originally posted by rich pickering
I gotta ask, are you pumping into the scoop?

Yes I know this is not optimum but in this application it works fine, and is allowed for in the installation instructions.

I like the valves on the tank, I use a tee after the ball valve and take the tank off the side. Any crud then falls into the bottom of the tee. I put the sediment valve on the bottom of the tee.
I put a ball valve after the fill valve, makes servicing easier.

I like the idea of the tee do you then use a 90 to keep the tank inlet up or do you position the tank in a horizontal orientation?

There is a valve in the fill line just ahead of the fill assy, do you find it advantageous to have an additional one after it?

Ignore the instructions about pumping into the tank, always pump away, and keep the fill at the tank. Everything will work much better.
I use a 90 to keep the tank inlet up.
I like to have a valve after the fill valve,if you have a problem servicing the fill valve, the boiler can stay in operation.
Glycol reacts with galvanised pipe, it's generally considered bad practice to use it in heating systems.

[itsamine]

Originally posted by hvac-tech-lane

Originally posted by itsamine
Is that black pipe and glavanized pipe toghter?

Yes, some of the pipe was from the previous boiler. Is there a problem using both types in a system? I've never heard that there would be a problem, but you've got me concerned.

Black and Galvanized do not go toghter. Reason being is that they are disimliar metals. They will react faster to rusting. It will not happen right away but way way down the road it'll happen. How long who knows could be years. The fitting will last but it's the pipe threads that will go out first. But that being said good install!

[hvac-tech-lane]

Originally posted by rich pickering

Originally posted by hvac-tech-lane

Originally posted by rich pickering
I gotta ask, are you pumping into the scoop?

Yes I know this is not optimum but in this application it works fine, and is allowed for in the installation instructions.

I like the valves on the tank, I use a tee after the ball valve and take the tank off the side. Any crud then falls into the bottom of the tee. I put the sediment valve on the bottom of the tee.
I put a ball valve after the fill valve, makes servicing easier.

I like the idea of the tee do you then use a 90 to keep the tank inlet up or do you position the tank in a horizontal orientation?

There is a valve in the fill line just ahead of the fill assy, do you find it advantageous to have an additional one after it?

Ignore the instructions about pumping into the tank, always pump away, and keep the fill at the tank. Everything will work much better.
I use a 90 to keep the tank inlet up.
I like to have a valve after the fill valve,if you have a problem servicing the fill valve, the boiler can stay in operation.
Glycol reacts with galvanised pipe, it's generally considered bad practice to use it in heating systems.

Straight water in this system so I think I'm in the clear. Good point about servicing the feed water assy. I'll use that on future installs, this system has a realitivly small volume so it would be a quick trip to drain and refill, I also installed ball valves in th supply and return so the loop wouldn't need to be drained. Thanks for the follow up.

[drewby]

Looks good, Try taking a rag to that pipe dope. It does no good on the outside of the pipe but look ugly!

[oil lp man]

Are you missing a flowcheck valve in the system?
At this point I would replace that OEM taco circulator with a Taco IFC (internal check valve) circulator. Easier to do than repipe it. I believe Grundfoss makes a circulator with a check valve built in as well.

[bjd]

Nice work, I would have to agree thought about the flow check. Is there one?

Though you might have a hidden one behind the boiler.

I like the filter rack, that makes it look good.

I try to paint all of the black stuff, makes it all look the same.

good work

BJD

[hvac-tech-lane]

Originally posted by oil lp man
Are you missing a flowcheck valve in the system?
At this point I would replace that OEM taco circulator with a Taco IFC (internal check valve) circulator. Easier to do than repipe it. I believe Grundfoss makes a circulator with a check valve built in as well.

Good point, however the previous system didn't have one so I didn't add one the customer hasn't complained about over heating. The system is a single zone with fin tube and baseboard radiation on a monoflo tee loop, I'm wondering if convection is less of a problem for this system. Any input?

[hvac-tech-lane]

Originally posted by drewby
Looks good, Try taking a rag to that pipe dope. It does no good on the outside of the pipe but look ugly!

Your'e right, You must be more picky than me ( a hard thing to do I've been told " Who cares about that, the customer will never notice, and it will still work fine, only you will know about it" my response " So whats your point? Change it and do it right next time." ) Now I'm bugged about all the joints with pipe dope on them, this one will be cleaned up on my next visit, thanks for the constructive criticisim.