I cannot FIND THIS LEAK!!!!
Unit - WIF. Refrigerant - 404A. Remote condenser through the roof. Your typical setup.
This thing is losing 10lbs every other frikkin day. It takes 20. This %^**&%# leak should be blowing my hat off, yet I have been back on this thing with several other techs.
Dye. Electronic leak detector. Nitrogen to 200#, which holds. Evacuation to 600 microns, which holds. We've pulled off every stitch of insulation and traced every inch of piping. At one point three of us were on site - one on the roof, one under the ceiling, one in the evap.
There is no pressure relief. I've thought the leak may be coming from the high pressure control - thinking once it hits a certain pressure, it blows the charge, then resets, but we've blocked the coil and ran the head right at the tripping point and nothing.
I'm convinced someone is sneaking in there and blowing off the charge.
Last edited by Dad; 07-25-2011 at 07:59 PM.
Reason: removed cussing
Could be a hot leak. System is good when everything is cold when the condenser heats up a pinhole starts leaking. Closes when everything cools down.
just a thought.
Never give up; Never surrender!
Yep just had one like that.
Originally Posted by trouble time
Not what it use to be
Kevin... got to keep it PG rated, thx
I've had a huffer pull refrigerant until I used security caps. Drove me nuts. If you used dye then a hot leak would still show up with a UV light.
I had a leak not to long ago that would leak under vacuum but not under pressure, drove me out of my mind. Finally got lucky and the sob leaked a very small amount under pressure on the fourth attempt at a mechanical, gasketed, connection for the return oil line.
Next time it leaks out, which I guess is tomorrow...hit it with nitrogen, jack that pressure right up design max. Bring an ultrasonic detector too.
Isolate each component also.
Originally Posted by Joe Harper
Evap, lines, compressor and I am assume it has a receiver, it too if you can.
walk-in freezer? what method of defrost? if it's hot gas, that may be your answer.
OP, I think its time to jack her up to 350# ...
That sounds a big leak loosing 1/2 the charge in a day
Originally Posted by Kevin_1963
And it holds? And no dye present anywhere? Don't know what to suggest but I'll be watching the post to learn something
Originally Posted by Kevin_1963
If we evolve from the monkey then why are there still monkeys.
GOD Bless America.
Maybe your competition messing with you.
You need a good milk crate.
Next time, pressure it up and SIT on that crate for a while.
SIT a little longer.
And then SIT some more.
If that holds, then blow the nitrogen and pull your vacuum and go back to you milk crate and SIT.
Getting the picture here?
Once you're pressure test and evacuation hold (doubtful, really, with a leak of this magnitude). Go ahead and gas it up and go back to getting a case of "waffle-butt"
Check for leaks every 10 minutes with a good electronic. For cases like this, I like an H-10.
FWIW, I have yet to see one of these magical temperature or pressure sensitive leaks. I've seen leaks get bigger with pressure or temperature, but none that stop and start.
I have seen ghost leaks, checking a new line set and coil hooked to a new OD, using 200 pounds of pressure showed a leak. Showed it and we checked and checked and checked and checked.
Until I thought about something, pulled the charge from the OD unit and then found out 200lbs psig nitrogen was bleeding back through the service vales into the OD unit. Showing a "leak".
I will, if I have a question about a leak, pressurize and go run call or grab lunch. And have gotten into the habit of isolating everything. If that means I have to unsweat the ID coil, oh well. I will find the leak, even if it costs me money. (I tend to get hyper-focused and determined at times).