Mitsubishi Ductless Split
What do you guys think on this unit we installed in a cabin up at the lake? Holes in interior wall were pre-existing, we covered the worst of them with the unit. (There is multiple more at the base of the wall, not sure why....)
3/8" drain pipe with pump or gravity drain?
Is the the electric wire going to the indoor unit rated for outdoor exposure to weather and sun? Are your line sets insulated separately.
I know the wire that is specifically designed for FUJITSU units, which we use, is rated for it.
Originally Posted by tlj000
So it's possible that is also.
"Better tell the sandman to stay away, because we're gonna be workin on this one all night."
"Dude, you need more than 2 wires to a condenser to run a 2 stage heatpump."
"Just get it done son."
Why is the 240 volt line between the disconnect and unit in conduit and not the 240 between the 2 units? Where is the drain? Did you reduce it from 5/8" that that little line seen in picture? I thought code said you can't reduce? Why are both refrigerant lines insulated together? Line hide covers would make install look better.
According to the locol inspector, the 110 feeding the OD comfortstar has to be in conduit, etc etc, but the power wires and control wire, feeding the ID unit do not.
He explained it, but don't know if he was right or wrong. Minisplit line sets are both insulated, don't know if it is for increased SEER/efficiency or what.
My original reply has gone somewhere but anyway.
Insulating both lines separately is allready said but it is important because the metering device is in the OD unit so the lineset is part of the ID unit.
The OD unit will freeze up in the winter because the condensate in heating mode will block the drain hole.
I always use rubber pads to absorbe vibrations under the OD unit. And line cover is always neat.
ID condensate line appears to be that small tube tied to the stand? Will it work? Dunno. At least it too close to the building.
And finally the deflector or whatever it is in front of the OD fan. Can't it go?
I don't know your electrical codes but here that would be fine.
The deflector thing you are advising him to remove, looks like a manufacturer piece. Do you care to list your engineering degree showing how you "know" it is bad for the install, in light of the manufacturer?
Originally Posted by -MAKE-
Don't install Mitisu, but all of the high efficiency HP I have installed or investigated, pretty much state they do not make ice like a traditional HP. They make a light frost and modulate into cooling for a tiny amount of time to take it off, hence their ability to provide 4k btu of heat (in a 9k btu cooling head) at 17 degrees OD ambient.
If that condensate line is like the one used by an EC-400 little giant condensate pump, it is a 5/32 ID tube, under pressure and is pumped, not gravity drained.
Rubber pads are a good idea, if the manufacturer of them allows you to drill holes through them and then securely fasten bolts through the unit, the pads and the mounting bracket.
I think the technical term for the defector thing is a wind baffle.
I will bow down to the superior knowledge of the guy with a monkey cake as an avatar.
Originally Posted by dudeabides
Deflector thingee is now officially known as a wind baffle.
(and the cake is pure awesome sauce.)
The deflector or whatever it is, I have never seen in Mitsus papers. I think it will obstruct the airflow. Just like here people want to have some kind of cover on their OD units because they look ugly. Never recommend them. If it really is a part of the unit and supposed to be there then off course it should remain there.
What comes to ice. I myself have two minis and they are about 4 feet above the ground and I still have to remove ice two or three times in a winter just to not letting the ice reach the bottom of the unit. When the thing goes into defrost it drops like heavily leaking tap.
We don't know if there's a pump on the ID condensate line but why would there be? The condensate line on those things usually comes from the same place the refrig lines goes out. If you make sure the condensate line is bottom of the bunch it will drain outside. In this case the line appears to be restricted a lot. I is 16mm diam, dunno in inches, 5/8? And it will pour all the water right on the house.
The rubber pads I use have bolts on both ends. You just put nuts on them.
I just installed two comfortstars and found out they go into defrost when sensing a frost build up. According to their tech guy, at least he had a canned response for this question, the amount of water the produced when going into defrost is absorbed by the atmosphere. There is no water build up nor ice build up.
Wind baffle? It looks OEM. I am not aware of many OEM manufacturers making stuff that comes with the unit, that will cause it to malfunction if correctly installed.
The rubber things you talk of, are they ones used to isolate hanging stuff? Never thought of using them in a bolt down configuration. Good idea.
Reason I am assuming pump rather than drain is size of line. Most of them have 1/2 drain lines. Unless the installer is totally brain dead, he ain't going to reduce a 1/2" line to one the size in the picture. However, the condensate drain lines are that small, the hook up to the 1/2" then go through the pump and come out at 5/32 or so. Plus the pumps act as secondary drain safety devices if wired correctly, shutting off if the unit stops draining properly.
Might be in warm climates. OP said up at the lake. I assumed climate where it gets cold. Here at winter we usually see temperatures below 0F. Sometimes below -20F. Around 0F the unit pisses real good.
the amount of water the produced when going into defrost is absorbed by the atmosphere. There is no water build up nor ice build up.
At -10F or so mitsus like other best HPs lose their effectiness but until then let 'em rip.