That's my plan!
I may have to jump over to Kenmore next time around, if they don't have the exclusions FD is now putting on years 2-5, or making us pay beyond 1 year, ala Lowes.
You would think they understand how much shoddy product costs them.. unless, of course, they don't really give you another one. Much on amazon.com about FD not honoring warranty.
I've had a small protable goldstar cheapo unit ofmr Walmart that's lasted 5 years now. Fortuantely my basement isn't that damp so it does cycle off now and then. The home is built in 1925, but fortunately was a poured concrete foundation, and probably overbuilt since it was relatively new technology. There's only 1 major crack... probably since there was a buried oil tank near it and it likely wasn't filled in properly afterwards and created uneven wall loading.
I looked into a whole house or larger dehuidifier, but they seem cost prohibitive. In a old house, I have bigger fish to fry you could say.
I still might get one eventually for my upstairs. In hte summer I think the cool air leaks outside the downstairs windows, and humid air comes in from the attic and upstairs windows. It's always 4-5% higher RH upstairs than downstairs.
Actually, I think I'll make a post for that.
Update Ugh on Efficiency... .60 Liters per kwh, just 33% of EEV Sticker!
I have been running my replacement 70 pint Frigidaire at 55% RH in my 1200 SF unfinished basement... Poured concrete floor, block and mortar walls.... earth on one side... under hot and humid conditions in Atlanta for approx. five days. only 1.27 pints per KWH = .60 Liter per kWh. The EEV rating on the unit is 1.8.... and they apparently intentionally left the (liter) units off the sticker/plate. Could that have been an accident? I doubt it. I had to find the quoted 1.8 liters per kwh buried in the factory specs somewhere online. That was apparently so the user might mistake the number for pints per kwh.
I am taking this back to Lowes for a refund and will try another brand.
The Danby 70 pint sounds like a good unit... but runs the fan all the time.... and I cannot find their EEV rating posted anywhere online. That's not a good sign either.
Just a bad consumer experience all the way around.
The rated efficiency is not at 55%RH and 70 degrees. Its' at something like 75F and 80%RH. All units are rated and what I consider "non typical" conditions.
It's a cheap protable unit, what did you expect? The cheap units serve their purpose and cost about 1/5th (or less) what a larger more effecient units cost.
Persoanlly I'd shoot for 60% RH. Trying to maintain 55% in a basement is a bit optimstic without a full vapor barrier all around.
Thanks for input.
Originally Posted by motoguy128
I am concerned about mold and mildew at 60%, though.
Most sources say 50%... and I am already cheating that at 55% to save my wallet. ;-(
I will research the standards... why am I not surprised that the standards are at useless levels. The sad issue also is that from what I can tell, the bigger professional models aren't that much more efficient...at 5 times the cost.
With ratings vs. real world, it can get worse. An example is my Soleus which is rated at 40 pints/day... until you read this number is at non-standard conditions. At the standard conditions used by EPA and the more straightforward manufacturers, the capacity is rated 28 pints/day.
I have two, each bought as remanufactured. One I use seldom, going for weeks at a time idle, and after (as I remember) 3-4 years it has stopped working. The other is used about daily, for an hour or so each time and is still working. They are plastic cased and a little quieter than the usual cheap dehu.
In addition I have a Thermastor which was bought used about 4-5 years ago. It usually runs many hours a day when Mother Nature and the AC don't do the job, has not missed a beat the entire time I owned it.
If all you cared about was the dollar expense, a person would never buy coffee outside the home, would never buy lunch at a restaurant because the job could be done cheaper at home. Your car would end up being the $500 near-junker because you could always replace it for less than most repair costs. The fact that it might suck gas at 10 mpg, could be offset by the minimal depreciation expense. I would be surprised if people were that frugal and consistent with the dollars they spend.
The quality of the results is something worth paying extra for. I have measured the running wattage of each, and the KWH of the Thermastor, but I really judge them by how well they do the job. To me having low humidity, low noise and infrequent repairs, is a luxury that I pay for.
Best of luck -- Pstu
Thanks you so much!
Originally Posted by pstu
Bear Rules: Keep our home <50% RH summer, controls mites/mold and very comfortable.
Provide 60-100 cfm of fresh air when occupied to purge indoor pollutants and keep window dry during cold weather. T-stat setup/setback +8 hrs. saves energy
Use +Merv 10 air filter. -Don't forget the "Golden Rule"
Originally Posted by motoguy128
Current AHAM rating standards for all dehumidifiers (portable and whole house) are at 80°F and 60%RH.
I maintain 71° 41% in my 1890's stone foundation basement in SE WI using a 65 pint Perfect Aire portable dehumidifier from Ace Hardware. It draws 570w while running, and removes 2.65 pints/kwh - 35 pints/day under those conditions. (I did have higher numbers when I first started it up at 68° 57%RH)
Looking at the spec sheet for the Hi-E Dry 100 which Teddy Bear posted a few weeks ago, at those conditions the the Hi-E is rated for the exact same capacity that I am experiencing with the cheapie portable unit that is 1/8 as expensive. The Hi-E Dry 100 will perform better at higher temperatures/humidity though.
Granted the longevity might not be there, but that's still up in the air. I have 2 old portable dehumidifiers from the early 80's that still work great (might not quite hold true for current models though).