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Thread: cold in buffalo

  1. #1

    Angry

    I live in Buffalo NY, I live in a 45 year old ranch home, stone front cedar shingles on three sides. I have good insulation in attic, none in walls. I have 15 windows single pane with storms. My home is 1500 sq. windows total about 125 sq. Attic stays cold, basement is same size as 1st floor, 1500sq. I am looking to update my 22 yr old furnace. two estimates so far, both trane 2 stage models, one a 100,000 btu and one a 73000 btu. who has sized it correctly? What else should I be doing, I plan to have blown in insulation added to walls next year, window are way to expensive at this time, Am I heading in right direction and if not where and what should I be doing now. Thank You all for any help - Liam

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    1,996
    If the furnace was not in bad shape, I might button up the house first. DO windows/insulation first so you'll be able to get a smaller furnace. That's where real savings will come in.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Crooksville, Ohio
    Posts
    77
    Originally posted by jessicashannon
    who has sized it correctly?
    The contractor that took measurments of the rooms, door, windows and did a heat load calc. is the one who sized it correctly.
    All Seasons Heating & Cooling

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    68,090
    Weatherize first, furnace second.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Canada
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    256
    As mentioned earlier do the house "tightning" 1st.
    Look around the building thoroughly.
    Evaluate it.
    Look also at the sill plate if an older structure some of these leak air like a hurricane.
    If its an older home and renovations done like a former duplex with altered door entrances/window mods check to make sure insulation present behind redos if exterior walls and properly done.
    Saw a place awhile ago at a relatives where a former exterior door and window had been removed-converted from separate entrance(-+?) problem is NO insulation or anything behind this new drywall/changeout....its bare studding floor to ceiling for quite a ways too!
    Even electrical outlets on exterior walls can benefit from a going over to reduce infiltration on older homes.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Posts
    354
    Both seem a bit big. Won't know till a load calculation is done. As everyone stated, insulation and envelope tightness need to be addressed. I'm in the area and if I can be of assistance I'd be glad to help.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Florida's space coast
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    2,538
    Try calling a friend of mine, Adrian Summer.

    Last I knew he was with Zenner & Ritter Co Inc.

    Really good guy and very knowlegable.

    Tell him Don Eldridge said hello from Florida.
    We've been doing so much,for so long,with so little, that now we can do almost anything, with nothing at all.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    4H: Hot, Humid Houston H.O.
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    3,304

    History exists

    Surely with two such different sizes proposed so far, at least one of them is wrong. I would be concerned too.

    It would seem useful to know the size of your CURRENT furnace. If it has maintained a comfortable temperature, that would be one useful data point to estimate the size needed. This is probably a pipe dream, but if you were able to measure the percent of time that furnace runs on the peak coldest days, that could also contribute to your estimate.

    As opposed to Manual J which has estimates for all sorts of important heat loss factors, but does not take into account what is already known. The percent runtime could be acquired easily on a forced air system, using one or two Hobo data loggers on the appropriate day. Of course you need to *have* a peak winter day to measure that, and you can run Manual J anytime.

    It would seem to weatherize first, and buy the replacement furnace second, is the only way to avoid putting the cart before the horse. Manual J being a model, could easily "pretend" you had the weatherizing done, and tell you its sizing before and after.

    I'm a homeowner and not a pro, and live in S.Texas -- two reasons to double check what I say. But I do have a brother who lives close to you, in E.Aurora <g>.

    Best of luck -- P.Student

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Buffalo
    Posts
    195

    Liam,

    Definitely go for the insulation and furnace replacement; the ROI on windows is generally about 100 years even in sunny Buffalo.

    You are probably familiar with the New York State Energy Star program...it is a nice tool for savings and financing.

    The 100,000 sounds oversized...and possibly the 73,000 - a heat loss calc will help. I agree with the post from a/c don...you should call Adrian at Zenner and Ritter, Inc. Of course, I am somewhat biased on the matter!

    I'm not a Trane fan, but that is not the issue. Even the best equipment will perform poorly if not properly installed and calibrated.
    Eager to learn, willing to teach, reluctant to admit defeat.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
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    18,836
    jessica & shannon,

    Weatherize first is the best idea as it will reduce the needed size greatly!If you don't you'll be oversizedd in the future!!!

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