Flame sensor micro amps

[joker dan]

check the incoming gas pressure in the house. see what it does when the valve opens if below 4" water colume its a problem turn on other appliances also .may need the meter regulator turned up or keep changing out spark modules like everyone else does LOL. good luck

[Steve Wiggins]

Originally posted by wishful

Thanks again to the good folks with the helpful attitudes.

Yeah we have helpful attitudes alright.....we are helping the legitimate contractors you are stealing work from!

[MikeJ]

Originally posted by wishful
Hey folks, I didn't mean to tic anybody off. I have deals with contracttors in this area to help out when they are overburdened or shorthanded. Since I got cancer I can no longer work full time. But a lot of days I feel good enough to be useful, and with some of the young guys needing more experience we can all work together. On that note, I found my tech manual for the Lennox in question, and the furnace will either be fixed right or condemned. By the way-- do you think the average HO would know what flame rectification is, or microamps for that matter.
I was just using this forum to jog my memory. If you do your jobs well & charge a fair price, then you have nothing to worry about.
Thanks again to the good folks with the helpful attitudes.

Wishful, hope you are hanging in there. Seems like cancer has taken many members of my family on my mother's side. The other side goes out thru other illnesses and heart attacks. Hope you can hang in there and still be useful and productive.

If you are a homeowner and seeking advice, so what? If you get help here once, the next time you WILL probably call a contractor cause the next problem will be more difficult.

Now, with the Lennox G20, I always carry a new pilot assembly, actually several if I can. On any tune up, if I notice that the pilot hood is scorched/blackened/rusted, I suggest to the homeowner that this needs changing now. Why? Because it is a problem waiting to happen, and it will fail in the middle of the night when it is cold out.

Flame rectification cannot be proper with a rusted hood on the pilot cause that is the path (thru the flame) that makes it happen. I don't have the part number handy but it has the small orange wire leading to the pilot assy.

Depending on the model, this can be a chore to change out and I have certain tools that make it easier like a magnetized screwdriver. Any homeowner attempting this change out will end up in the looney bin if they have never done it before. Same goes with the door springs that sometimes need to be taken apart to change the pilot. I think I only removed the door twice in the last five years but I have changed many pilot assy's each year as the Whisper Heats were populare here once.

I would like to meet the design engineer and the ones who authorized this setup. Talk about Job security. The W.H. and the Pulse sure provide it.

To those bashing homeowners attempting repairs all I can say is how often do you attempt something out of your field? We all do it but in the end when the job is major we end up in the yellow pages, don't we?

PS. Wishful, use a good flashlight with a small beam and open the door carefully and look up into the heat exchanger. Many times you will see evidence of cracking at the curve even with the door on. Hard, but can be done.

[lakeman1234]

2hot2coolme
Professional Member

Registered: Apr 2004
Posts: 1460
I don't know what kind of advice you guys are giving this poor guy, but you're gonna get him hurt, it's obvious the problem lies in the time delay in the ODFM this is the first thing you want to check before goin through all that other trouble.

Good luck



This seem off in the twilight zone for advice.

[wishful]

Back in '88 I was boss over 34 technicians, both road and shop. Wish I had the good ones back, but I sure don't miss the cry-babies that thought somebody was cheating them, even though we were all in the same boat. My ligetimate contractor friends keep calling me back, that must count for something. Time to get back to work guys.

[lakeman1234]

Mike J is right. Just hang in there. They are bashing people all the time. Most are afraid some poor soul is going to steal a job from them, or they are going to give that homeowner just enough information to kill them selves. I tend to think you have asked questions that are above the DYI level. Most home owners wouldn't know what flame current is. Personally I don't think some of the "qualified techs" know that either. Good Luck

[Milk man]

Refresh my memory, isn't the G-20 the one with inshot burners and a blue ignition module.

Wish they would just name the furnaces. Everyone know what a whisper heat is.

[wishful]

This furnace has the old style burners and a motorized damper door on the primary air intake.
I changed out the pilot-sensor assy, made no difference. Then I replaced the original Robertshaw ignition module with a Honeywell S8610U. The furnace is now working great, the young man I was teaching was glad to see the whole process, the wiring change can be kind of tricky on some of those modules. Not to mention dealing with that spring loaded damper. Thanks very much for the input gentelmen.
PS; Learning to fly a remote controled helecopter is harder than the real thing--- so I've been told.

Thanks again!!

[MikeJ]

Well Lynn, I sure know what a whisper heat is as I worked for a company that sold Lennox. Learned the hard way how to repair them, at night, alone, in the cold and dark.

Also met a few pulses along the way. I like them.

But the w.h. almost always would need a new pilot burner when excessive clicking was noted or when it was going into lockout. Now with a blue module problem, the symptoms were a little different but it could also result in lockouts. We replaced a lot of them under warranty just because they were there and after warranties expired I would explain to customers why it was beneficial to replace the module AND the pilot burner. Most if not all went along with me and were saved a future service call or two. Once they were replaced, the units usually ran good and dependable unless water got to the circuit board.

However:

"I don't know what kind of advice you guys are giving this poor guy, but you're gonna get him hurt, it's obvious the problem lies in the time delay in the ODFM this is the first thing you want to check before goin through all that other trouble." by another poster may mean that:

I got my head up my whatchamacallit. Anyone got a flashlight?

[Edited by MikeJ on 10-24-2005 at 07:45 PM]

[tinknocker service tech]

th wh i dont think ever had the blue control. as i remember it was the large wr control. it was a very dependable control. wish ful lenox is now useing the honeywell control only it has a build in 30 second delay so the burners can not be shoet cycled in the event of a power flicker. would recomend getting one.
good job and good luck. god be with you

[MikeJ]

You're right about the control,

[curry]

That furnace would probably be better off replaced.

[Milk man]

Now I'm really confused. I was thinking apples where the problem was with oranges.

Does the whisper Heat have both a blue ignition module and a circuit board that hangs on the blower shelf?