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  1. #1
    Kenmore model c8mpto75f14a1

    M/B ST9162A
    gAS VALVE sv9541

    Not getting draft fan motor to come on.
    Light showing steady green on honeywell smart valve

    I think its the fan timer board
    This a two stage unit w1 w2

    jumped induced motor it started.

    so, I beleave its at the fan timer.

    Are there any international confort products experts out there?

    regards,
    Kelvin

    \

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Gaylord, Michigan
    Posts
    729
    Are you getting a call for heat from the thermostat? Just wondering, cause the inducer would be the first thing to power up after the call for heat. I know it is a silly thing to ask, but that is what I would check first, before changing out the board.

  3. #3
    Of course ... I jumped r and w1 .. I can hear the board click. The light is green on gas valve, but no draft motor.

    I have proved that the motor does work, by jumping it.

    even after the motor ran for a while still nothing. Not familar with this unit. Thats why I need a second opinion.

    rgards,
    Kelvin

  4. #4
    The light should be a continually heatbeat.

    You need to check the Hi/Lo pressure switches. One of them are closed. Locking the unit from operation.

    Make sure they are properly located for your installation.

    Do you have the serial of the unit. There was an issue with some of the pressure switches from a certain time frame if my memory serves me correctly.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    The "Burgh"
    Posts
    1,255
    Originally posted by jultzya
    The light should be a continually heatbeat.

    You need to check the Hi/Lo pressure switches. One of them are closed. Locking the unit from operation.

    Make sure they are properly located for your installation.

    Do you have the serial of the unit. There was an issue with some of the pressure switches from a certain time frame if my memory serves me correctly.
    Your memory does serve you correctly, verify High pressure switch is closing, we already know the lo pressure switch is closing when you jumped R and W1.

    Is one of the switches metal? (the hi fire one should be.)

    Serial number would be an indicator.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Gaylord, Michigan
    Posts
    729
    How can the low pressure switch be closing, when the inducer motor won't even start? You need that to start before the switch will close. Unless the switch is closed before startup, which would cause it to fault.

  7. #7

    help

    serial number is A033100704

    I would think that the draft fan needs
    to come on before the preasure switch
    would close. I would think if the preasure switch was stuck in an
    open or close position I would get a code for it. The draft
    motor is one of the first things that come on regardless
    of a code.
    I am thinking fan controller. It so many wires on the
    smart valve. I had to study the schematic.

    regards,
    Kelvin




  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Gaylord, Michigan
    Posts
    729
    That is where my thinking takes me as Klyons. That the board controlling the inducer is not switching it on in a call for heat. Therefore the pressure switches are not getting a chance to close. Unless there is something I am missing.

  9. #9

    Re: help

    Originally posted by klyons20
    serial number is A033100704

    I would think that the draft fan needs
    to come on before the preasure switch
    would close. I would think if the preasure switch was stuck in an
    open or close position I would get a code for it. The draft
    motor is one of the first things that come on regardless
    of a code.
    First, the pressure switch SHOULD be open on a call for heat (unless it is faulty).

    Second, forget the damn light! Use it as an aid in diagnostics, but don't RELY on it!

    Third, you need to test the switches. One could be faulty and closed not allowing the unit to start its operation. They have to open in order for the unit to come on. Otherwise the switch could fail (closed) and then it would not be protecting the unit from a major malfunction!

  10. #10

    fan timer board

    You guys are scaring me.. This is 2 stage furnace with a honeywell smart valve. and a fan timer control board.
    This unit is not a simple setup. It has wires every where.

    If you start the unit and no draft motor comes on. Then that the first place you start would be is to figure out If the motor faulty or is it not being trigured to come on. This is a two stage draft motor. I proved that the motor does work by jumping it.

    The little fan timer board run this system and controls all fans on the unit. So, after research it has to be the fan timer board. The honeywell gas valve has about 15 wires on it. So, its a little difficult than normal to trouble shoot this system with out a little reading of the wire diagram.

    This is a Kenmore system made by icp.
    Sears want 93.00 for a service call! plus labor, but the board might be covered under warrity. Since the unit is less than two years old.

    I will go directly to icp for a warrity replacement.

    regards,
    kelvin

  11. #11
    Originally posted by klyons20
    You guys are scaring me.. This is 2 stage furnace with a honeywell smart valve. and a fan timer control board.
    This unit is not a simple setup. It has wires every where.

    If you start the unit and no draft motor comes on. Then that the first place you start would be is to figure out If the motor faulty or is it not being trigured to come on. This is a two stage draft motor. I proved that the motor does work by jumping it.

    The little fan timer board run this system and controls all fans on the unit. So, after research it has to be the fan timer board. The honeywell gas valve has about 15 wires on it. So, its a little difficult than normal to trouble shoot this system with out a little reading of the wire diagram.

    This is a Kenmore system made by icp.
    Don't start preaching to the quire just yet!

    So of us know this unit a little better than you do, as we are not the ones asking the questions on it! I know this system like the back of my hand. And you stated; "Not familar with this unit. Thats why I need a second opinion".

    You didn't have to tell ME what brand this unit is, as I know them numbers. (c8mpto75f14a1)

    # C8MPT075F14A1 your "o" after the "t" is actually a "0" as in a number.

    C = Comfortmaker (brand)
    8 = 80 percent
    MP = Multi-Positional
    075 = Input btu
    F = 19" Cabinet Width
    14 = 1400 CFM Blower
    A = Marketing Change
    1 = Engineering Change

    # A033100704

    Manufactured 31 week of 03.

    Going off the data that you supplied, we knew:

    1) there were no fault codes
    2) that inducer ran when wired direct
    3) that on a call for heat the inducer doesn't run
    4) that you eliminated the stat by jumping R to W1 at board
    5) that there has been issues with the hi fire switches in some of the two stage units

    By your second post, we can assume you didn't measure the vacuum that the inducer was pulling.

    We know that the switches HAVE to open after the heat cycle or the units WILL NOT START UP AGAIN!

    Not being there, we gave you the best advice we could by going off of your limited data!


    Sears want 93.00 for a service call! plus labor, but the board might be covered under warrity. Since the unit is less than two years old.
    Now by this comment you get:



    Servicemen don't worry about what others charge. Servicemen FIX the problem that exists in front of them!

    DIY'ers on the other hand try to foul pros to get by cheap.

    Which are you; a serviceman or DIY'er?

    (we can't help DIY, due to site rules )

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    996
    lol balloons!!!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    The "Burgh"
    Posts
    1,255
    Let me rephrase my post a little bit, I probably did not word it right. Christheheatingdude, I can see where that could be misinterpreted.

    My concern is this, This is a 2-stage, which means on a call for heat, the vent motor will start on high speed and high fire. it does not go to lo fire until after the system has started. Are you reading hi fire amps or lo fire amps on the vent motor when you jumped R and W1 ?

    Both switches should be open on a call and then close when proved when vent motor comes on. If the switch did not close after the previous cycle, the vent motor will not start. However you should be getting a fault code if this is the case. I would look for continuity in the vent motor plug in the smartvalve, since this is your ignition control.

    I may not be totally correct, but just some things I am taking from the information given. Please correct me if I am wrong. Its been a long last 7 days or so and I think the brain (or what little is left of it !) is about to explode.

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