A few questions for those in the know

[uncleblaine]

My 2-story home in central Minnesota currently has a Ruud HR-125JD gas furnace. Does anyone have any idea what kind of efficiency this model has? I've owned the home for 9 years, but I've no idea when the furnace was put in, though I doubt it is an original 1958 model.

It's rating is 125000 BTU/hr with 100000 BTU bonnet capacity. Can I use that as a wild guestimate for proper sizing of a new unit? Also, I intend on replacing the current junk US Steel windows as part of the entire project. Is it safe to assume my BTU needs should be less with energy star windows? I've got calls to set up estimates with the local Bryant, Trane, and Rheem dealers but haven't heard back yet. Given the approaching cold and rising NG prices, if they get back in the next few days I'll be pleased. I'm thinking I want to go 90+ efficiency on the furnace and replace my 3 ton(?) AC unit at the same time. I have a Trion electronic air cleaner and a Skuttle humidifier that I would like to be able to keep using as they are under 3 years old. Is this realistic or a pipe dream?

Anything you could assist with would be greatly appreciated. This forum is a great resource!

[anonymous]

fill in some information about you in your profile. We don't like diy's trolls here. you will have to call a professional.

[uncleblaine]

Sorry. A *troll* I am not, and resent the implication, actually. While I like to consider myself a DIYer, I know better than to tackle a project like this, or the windows for that matter. But I do like to go into a project with *some* knowledge, which is why I'm here. I'll answer any question you'd like to ask me, and I'll go put some info in my profile as well.

[dash]

1000,000 divided by 125,000 is 80% ,that's your current efficiency.

Changing windows will likely lower the size needed,maybe for cooling as well.If insulation can be added ,it's a good time for that as it helps lower the size needed as well.

A manual J load calc, or based on manual J, is needed to size the heating and the cooling.

The red tab above will allow you to do your own calculation for a small fee.

See http://www.acca.org as well,for info. only.

Tell all contractors that you insist on this before setting any appointment.


Keeping the air cleaner and humidifier should be no problem,some here will knock the Electronic ,but if you clean it often ,they work just fine.

Ask the Bryant guy about the Evolution furnace and Controler.

[dash]

Originally posted by uncleblaine
Sorry. A *troll* I am not, and resent the implication, actually. While I like to consider myself a DIYer, I know better than to tackle a project like this, or the windows for that matter. But I do like to go into a project with *some* knowledge, which is why I'm here. I'll answer any question you'd like to ask me, and I'll go put some info in my profile as well.

Just ignore his post,some just want to start a fued.

[ct2]

Although you have a furnace in your home now , there are to many variables to answer the questions you have asked . Given the fact that you are installing new windows you really should have a load calculation done and any /all of the contractors that give you an estimate should do a manual j to determine what your needs really are

http://hphaa.com/services/installation/installation.htm

go to this website and read read read....

you will find many answers there

[uncleblaine]

Hey thanks dash! I checked out that j-calc thing last night but didn't download it as I wasn't sure if it was worthwhile when I'm not entirely sure of the insulation, for example, in the house. If nothing else, for fifty bucks it would be interesting to compare the numbers with different window materials. These steel things are so worthless I could just as well leave them open in the winter, or buy stock in 3M window coverings.

I'm at work now (yep a very slow day,) but I'm going to do the calculator tonight.

The Bryant Evolution is actually the first unit I glommed onto, so I'm glad to hear it recommended.

Thanks again!
Blaine

[uncleblaine]

dash and ct2,

If I do this load calc thing from the tab above, am I best to keep that information to myself and ask the contractors to do one? Or should I share it and perhaps let them make adjustments as needed. When they do a load calculation is it done in a similar manner as this program does it, or do they have measuring equipment or somesuch that does a more accurate job?

Thanks again guys!

[Irascible]

Originally posted by dash
some here will knock the Electronic ,but if you clean it often ,they work just fine.

I couldn't have said it better myself. I do indeed knock electronics because so few customers are willing to put in the work necessary. :^)

[Irascible]

Originally posted by uncleblaine
The Bryant Evolution is actually the first unit I glommed onto, so I'm glad to hear it recommended.

You don't know Dash. He'd recommend pet porcupines if Carrier branded them.

But seriously- It's a very good product IF you have an exceptionally well trained contractor and the right application. The zoning and humidity control aspects of the system are excellent. But if you're not installing zoning and if controlling humidity isn't a major issue (I don't know your climate.) then it's not worth the expense and complexity in my opinion.

Let the contractors do their own calcs and then compare the results. Don't be surprised if the results vary tremendously from your own. Fearful contractors are wont to throw in fudge factors.

[Jultzya]

Do the load calc so you will have an idea as to the sizing.

Keep it to yourself at first. Try choosing the best contractor you can possibly find.

If the load calc is way off, ask why. But let them tell you their size of equipment first! That way you will have an idea if they are GUESSING! They need to measure windows, doors, ceiling height, insulation, etc..

One last comment, the best equipment install wrong is going to be the biggest POS you ever owned. So get the BEST installer you can find and have them install the equipment brand that he recommends.

[dash]

You can make mistakes doing your own calculation,but so can the contractor.

I keep it to myself ,until after they size it,and ask them to show you why theirs is different,if they don't match.

I'd do it and run different windows that you might buy as well as different R values for areas that insulation can easily be added.this can help dtermone what to add to best reduce the load to maybe a 90,000 but furnace and a 2.5 ton system.Reducing the system size saves operating cost and If your duct system is too small ,can make it the correct size.


Now ,Infinity/Evolution,check out "All" the features,and it may be what "You" want.

It really is easier than most to install,wiring ,configuration ,no dip switches to set,etc.,etc..I say the systems that come close it in features ,require more training ,than Infinity/Evolution,including the Carrier/Bryant Thermidistat.IMHO.

[Christheheatingdude]

Originally posted by anonymous
fill in some information about you in your profile. We don't like diy's trolls here. you will have to call a professional.

Is this who I think it is?


Anyway on to the topic.

Uncleblaine, can't really add anymore than dash told you. Follow his recomendations and you should be golden.

Happy Heating

[uncleblaine]

Originally posted by Christheheatingdude

Originally posted by anonymous
fill in some information about you in your profile. We don't like diy's trolls here. you will have to call a professional.

Is this who I think it is?

Well my weblogs say the first visitor after putting my url in the profile was from Florida, if that helps. But several more have visted from Georgia, California and Connecticut. I'll refrain from offering anything more specific. Statcounter is a wonderful thing for those of you who have websites... and it's free.

Anyway, I appreciate all the input you guys have offered. I'll be spending some time reading up on those sites, and will download the calculator tonight. My wife recently did an excercise appraisal on our house so I'll have many of the measurements handy.

Of the folks I've called, the Bryant contractor and the Carrier/Trane (yep, that's what they carry) contractors both have sterling and long reputations in the area. The Rheem guy is less well known, but will try to check things out further if he seems a likely candidate.

I'll keep you posted and if I can get through the calculator tonight I'll post my results.

Thanks again!
Blaine

[mlbussert]

Sorry, I can't help you as I am a HO myself in the process of buyin a new AC/Furnace, and I have found the people in this site very helpful and knowledgeable so that I can make a decision as to which contractor to go with.

However, I have to comment that I could not stop laughing since I find it highly ironic that someone with the username "anonymous" would ask you fill out your profile.

[uncleblaine]

Ain't that the truth!

If you're still looking for info, check out the hphaa.com link ct2 posted. Incredible information!

I many times will highlight a line of text to use as a page mark when I'm called away from the computer. Was taken aback when it wouldn't work. Then I thought about it a bit more. VERY smart call!



[Edited by uncleblaine on 10-08-2005 at 06:18 PM]

[uncleblaine]

Okay, I've done the manual J, and here's the whole house results if anyone is interested.

With current windows:
S/Gain L/Gain T/Gain T/Loss
15596 3417 19013 53612

With new windows, patio door and front door:
14659 3417 18076 47427

That's just shy of 6200 BTU less heat loss. To me that seems quite substantial, but I'm a laymen. And in all actuality, the only changes made in the program were to lowE glass, and vinyl frame. The old windows leak like seives so the real difference may be greater.

Back to studying recommended links...

[Irascible]

Originally posted by uncleblaine
I many times will highlight a line of text to use as a page mark when I'm called away from the computer. Was taken aback when it wouldn't work. Then I thought about it a bit more. VERY smart call!

Well... not really. I was trying to protect my content. But you have no idea how easy it is to circumvent the no highlight/no right click feature. I'll let you figure it out on your own. ;^)

[uncleblaine]

Originally posted by Irascible Well... not really. I was trying to protect my content. But you have no idea how easy it is to circumvent the no highlight/no right click feature. I'll let you figure it out on your own. ;^)

LOL Actually, I do, but at least it keeps most honest people honest. I've been through that a bit myself. I'm just happy to read the info, I don't want to "borrow" it.

I imagine there's at least a few less than upstanding contractors who aren't pleased with your truth-speaking. Kudos to you for doing it. Excellent information!

[dash]

Originally posted by uncleblaine
Okay, I've done the manual J, and here's the whole house results if anyone is interested.

With current windows:
S/Gain L/Gain T/Gain T/Loss
15596 3417 19013 53612

With new windows, patio door and front door:
14659 3417 18076 47427

That's just shy of 6200 BTU less heat loss. To me that seems quite substantial, but I'm a laymen. And in all actuality, the only changes made in the program were to lowE glass, and vinyl frame. The old windows leak like seives so the real difference may be greater.

Back to studying recommended links...

Imporovements saving 5% on cooling,and 11% on heating.

That's like buying a half of SEER more ,and going from an 80 to a 90 % furnace.