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  1. #1
    My 2-story home in central Minnesota currently has a Ruud HR-125JD gas furnace. Does anyone have any idea what kind of efficiency this model has? I've owned the home for 9 years, but I've no idea when the furnace was put in, though I doubt it is an original 1958 model.

    It's rating is 125000 BTU/hr with 100000 BTU bonnet capacity. Can I use that as a wild guestimate for proper sizing of a new unit? Also, I intend on replacing the current junk US Steel windows as part of the entire project. Is it safe to assume my BTU needs should be less with energy star windows? I've got calls to set up estimates with the local Bryant, Trane, and Rheem dealers but haven't heard back yet. Given the approaching cold and rising NG prices, if they get back in the next few days I'll be pleased. I'm thinking I want to go 90+ efficiency on the furnace and replace my 3 ton(?) AC unit at the same time. I have a Trion electronic air cleaner and a Skuttle humidifier that I would like to be able to keep using as they are under 3 years old. Is this realistic or a pipe dream?

    Anything you could assist with would be greatly appreciated. This forum is a great resource!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    146
    fill in some information about you in your profile. We don't like diy's trolls here. you will have to call a professional.

  3. #3
    Sorry. A *troll* I am not, and resent the implication, actually. While I like to consider myself a DIYer, I know better than to tackle a project like this, or the windows for that matter. But I do like to go into a project with *some* knowledge, which is why I'm here. I'll answer any question you'd like to ask me, and I'll go put some info in my profile as well.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
    Posts
    18,836
    1000,000 divided by 125,000 is 80% ,that's your current efficiency.

    Changing windows will likely lower the size needed,maybe for cooling as well.If insulation can be added ,it's a good time for that as it helps lower the size needed as well.

    A manual J load calc, or based on manual J, is needed to size the heating and the cooling.

    The red tab above will allow you to do your own calculation for a small fee.

    See http://www.acca.org as well,for info. only.

    Tell all contractors that you insist on this before setting any appointment.


    Keeping the air cleaner and humidifier should be no problem,some here will knock the Electronic ,but if you clean it often ,they work just fine.

    Ask the Bryant guy about the Evolution furnace and Controler.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
    Posts
    18,836
    Originally posted by uncleblaine
    Sorry. A *troll* I am not, and resent the implication, actually. While I like to consider myself a DIYer, I know better than to tackle a project like this, or the windows for that matter. But I do like to go into a project with *some* knowledge, which is why I'm here. I'll answer any question you'd like to ask me, and I'll go put some info in my profile as well.
    Just ignore his post,some just want to start a fued.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    3,157
    Although you have a furnace in your home now , there are to many variables to answer the questions you have asked . Given the fact that you are installing new windows you really should have a load calculation done and any /all of the contractors that give you an estimate should do a manual j to determine what your needs really are

    http://hphaa.com/services/installation/installation.htm

    go to this website and read read read....

    you will find many answers there

  7. #7
    Hey thanks dash! I checked out that j-calc thing last night but didn't download it as I wasn't sure if it was worthwhile when I'm not entirely sure of the insulation, for example, in the house. If nothing else, for fifty bucks it would be interesting to compare the numbers with different window materials. These steel things are so worthless I could just as well leave them open in the winter, or buy stock in 3M window coverings.

    I'm at work now (yep a very slow day,) but I'm going to do the calculator tonight.

    The Bryant Evolution is actually the first unit I glommed onto, so I'm glad to hear it recommended.

    Thanks again!
    Blaine

  8. #8
    dash and ct2,

    If I do this load calc thing from the tab above, am I best to keep that information to myself and ask the contractors to do one? Or should I share it and perhaps let them make adjustments as needed. When they do a load calculation is it done in a similar manner as this program does it, or do they have measuring equipment or somesuch that does a more accurate job?

    Thanks again guys!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Concord, CA
    Posts
    2,635
    Originally posted by dash
    some here will knock the Electronic ,but if you clean it often ,they work just fine.
    I couldn't have said it better myself. I do indeed knock electronics because so few customers are willing to put in the work necessary. :^)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Concord, CA
    Posts
    2,635
    Originally posted by uncleblaine
    The Bryant Evolution is actually the first unit I glommed onto, so I'm glad to hear it recommended.
    You don't know Dash. He'd recommend pet porcupines if Carrier branded them.

    But seriously- It's a very good product IF you have an exceptionally well trained contractor and the right application. The zoning and humidity control aspects of the system are excellent. But if you're not installing zoning and if controlling humidity isn't a major issue (I don't know your climate.) then it's not worth the expense and complexity in my opinion.

    Let the contractors do their own calcs and then compare the results. Don't be surprised if the results vary tremendously from your own. Fearful contractors are wont to throw in fudge factors.

  11. #11
    Do the load calc so you will have an idea as to the sizing.

    Keep it to yourself at first. Try choosing the best contractor you can possibly find.

    If the load calc is way off, ask why. But let them tell you their size of equipment first! That way you will have an idea if they are GUESSING! They need to measure windows, doors, ceiling height, insulation, etc..

    One last comment, the best equipment install wrong is going to be the biggest POS you ever owned. So get the BEST installer you can find and have them install the equipment brand that he recommends.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
    Posts
    18,836
    You can make mistakes doing your own calculation,but so can the contractor.

    I keep it to myself ,until after they size it,and ask them to show you why theirs is different,if they don't match.

    I'd do it and run different windows that you might buy as well as different R values for areas that insulation can easily be added.this can help dtermone what to add to best reduce the load to maybe a 90,000 but furnace and a 2.5 ton system.Reducing the system size saves operating cost and If your duct system is too small ,can make it the correct size.


    Now ,Infinity/Evolution,check out "All" the features,and it may be what "You" want.

    It really is easier than most to install,wiring ,configuration ,no dip switches to set,etc.,etc..I say the systems that come close it in features ,require more training ,than Infinity/Evolution,including the Carrier/Bryant Thermidistat.IMHO.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Gaylord, Michigan
    Posts
    729
    Originally posted by anonymous
    fill in some information about you in your profile. We don't like diy's trolls here. you will have to call a professional.
    Is this who I think it is?


    Anyway on to the topic.

    Uncleblaine, can't really add anymore than dash told you. Follow his recomendations and you should be golden.

    Happy Heating


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