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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Bemidji, Mn
    Posts
    3,573
    Never had to replace a gas flapper, did find one with the wrong thickness washer in it though, alot of CO pumpin out of that sucker...
    You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel...

    http://rapalaguy.spaces.live.com/

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
    Posts
    4,264
    I thought it would make sense to replace the flapper since I had the assembly out doing a heat exchanger pressure test, but not at that cost. I did break the O ring on one recently but used the spare that was in the pressure test kit. Guess I'd better try to find a few of them to have on hand.
    There is nothing more frightful than ignorance in action....Mark Twain

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    NW IL.
    Posts
    3,935
    Today got called on a G21. No light situation started taking bolts out of air chamber and water starts running out the bolt holes. Seems the owners 7-1/2 year old son had been busy with the garden hose trying to fill up the air intake pipe. Don't think this is covered under warranty heat exhcanger rusted, gas flapper, air flapper, spark plug, flame sensor. RIP to the early demise of a fine furnace that most likely had another 5-10 years of service.
    Aircraft Mechanical Accessories Technician. The Air Force changed the job title to Air Craft Environmental Systems Technician. But I've decided I'll always be a Mech Acc.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    burlington county n.j.
    Posts
    9,739
    have had that happen a few times. open up system and point fan at air chamber. replace air flapper it's probaby due anyway. never had to change plug or sensor for this. once dry it will be fine.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
    Posts
    4,264
    Hmmm. I have a customer with a G21 that is vertically vented through an old masonry chimney. Looked at the system for the first time last year. Every summer during the cooling season the air intake chamber fills with water. I asked the area tech rep about it and his feeling was that a natural draft was taking place pulling moist outdoor air through and it is condensing inside the chamber. He suggested putting ball valves on the intake and exhaust and closing them during summer. Have you guys ever seen this happen?

    For now, we're pulling and leaving the cover plate off during the summer. His old service company sold him a new air diaphragm assembly every year. He got tired of that expense. Besides, it wasn't the cure.
    There is nothing more frightful than ignorance in action....Mark Twain

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    St Paul, Minnesota
    Posts
    3,468
    Originally posted by MechAcc
    Today got called on a G21. No light situation started taking bolts out of air chamber and water starts running out the bolt holes. Seems the owners 7-1/2 year old son had been busy with the garden hose trying to fill up the air intake pipe. Don't think this is covered under warranty heat exhcanger rusted, gas flapper, air flapper, spark plug, flame sensor. RIP to the early demise of a fine furnace that most likely had another 5-10 years of service.

    Didn't have that much water but I was taking a reading with my water filled manometer once (and only once) and while still connected up I turned off the unit. Whooosh, the water exited the manometer and got sucked right into the gas flapper and into the heat exchanger. Since I was on a tune up call, I had to get it running like it had before I got there. So, I managed to get it started after a few tries and it ran like a wet Ford for about five minutes then ran ok.

    Those acorn shaped heat exchangers are like a tank. Outside rust shouldn't be a problem, Check the 2ndary heat exchanger for dust build up and fire it up. If water did get on the contacts I'll bet it will clear up.

    On the vertically vented unit, can you leave the exhaust go up the chimney and move the intake to another part of the building?

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
    Posts
    4,264
    Originally posted by MikeJ
    On the vertically vented unit, can you leave the exhaust go up the chimney and move the intake to another part of the building? [/B][/QUOTE]

    Probably. How do you think this will help? Think it will defeat the natural draft process? I'm just not sure how a natural draft is ever established with both the exhaust and intake terminating together above the roof. This is the only time I've seen this happen. Seems to be more to it to me.

    I'm open to suggestions. Not sure how much the HO wants to spend to correct it however. Especially if leaving the cover off works.
    There is nothing more frightful than ignorance in action....Mark Twain

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    burlington county n.j.
    Posts
    9,739
    Originally posted by HVAC Pro
    Hmmm. I have a customer with a G21 that is vertically vented through an old masonry chimney. Looked at the system for the first time last year. Every summer during the cooling season the air intake chamber fills with water. I asked the area tech rep about it and his feeling was that a natural draft was taking place pulling moist outdoor air through and it is condensing inside the chamber. He suggested putting ball valves on the intake and exhaust and closing them during summer. Have you guys ever seen this happen?

    For now, we're pulling and leaving the cover plate off during the summer. His old service company sold him a new air diaphragm assembly every year. He got tired of that expense. Besides, it wasn't the cure.

    if heater has a/c coil on it make sure there is no water dripping down on top of air box. it will enter down around pvc air inlet and back of flapper housing. had one last year full of water. owner told me utility co had found same thing the year before. ended up being pinhole leak in evap coil pan. new evap this past spring, no problem this fall.

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    burlington county n.j.
    Posts
    9,739
    [i]Originally posted by MikeJ

    On the vertically vented unit, can you leave the exhaust go up the chimney and move the intake to another part of the building? [/B]


    do NOT do this on a pulse furnace. intake and exhaust must be in same pressure area. 12" max seperation. pressure switch would cause problems

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
    Posts
    4,264
    Evaporator was replaced this spring. The original evap. was a York flat top coil pos. It's very possible there was a condensate leak as the return plenum underneath was rusted out completely. But, the air intake adapter has a gasket. Never paid much attention to how airtight the intake air diaphragm assembly is.

    You could be on to something. If so, the problem was solved when I replaced the evaporator. I'll be looking closely at things when he calls for his fall check. Thanks, t.
    There is nothing more frightful than ignorance in action....Mark Twain

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    St Paul, Minnesota
    Posts
    3,468
    Originally posted by t527ed
    [i]Originally posted by MikeJ

    On the vertically vented unit, can you leave the exhaust go up the chimney and move the intake to another part of the building?


    do NOT do this on a pulse furnace. intake and exhaust must be in same pressure area. 12" max seperation. pressure switch would cause problems [/B]

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    St Paul, Minnesota
    Posts
    3,468
    Originally posted by MikeJ
    Originally posted by t527ed
    [i]Originally posted by MikeJ

    On the vertically vented unit, can you leave the exhaust go up the chimney and move the intake to another part of the building?


    do NOT do this on a pulse furnace. intake and exhaust must be in same pressure area. 12" max seperation. pressure switch would cause problems
    [/B]

    My bad, your right. I was thinking of the condensation buildup in such a verticle intake and trying to eliminate that. Don't you mean 12" min seperation? I've seen a few Pulses having recirculation problems. They don't like eating their own gases.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Bemidji, Mn
    Posts
    3,573
    As far as the water running into the exchanger, I know on some RUUD furnaces and Munchkin boilers I put a Y and a in the intake. Not sure what you would do with the exhaust...

    [Edited by Chad711 on 10-09-2005 at 01:24 PM]
    You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel...

    http://rapalaguy.spaces.live.com/

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