Oh I almost forgot, I saw somewhere in this forum the goodman HP has a default defrost cycle of 30 mins. Is it recommended to change this to 90 mins for Ohio?
I have been reading alot here and I will try to be as detailed as possible, so please don't flame the nubie if I miss something...well nevermind flame away LOL. My father is HVAC certified, but has not worked alot in the field. His friend has been doing commercial installs forever and is also certified, but neither has done a dual fuel install so I wanted to make sure I had as much information as possible. First my set up.
Location: Ohio
Manufacturer: Goodman
GMV90703BXA
CLJ3-1
CAPF036B2C
White Rogers 1F95-371
Questions:
1. My compressor has a big blue sticker that says Powered by Copeland Scroll, yet the Goodman website says the CLJ3-1 does not have a scroll compressor.
2. The White Rogers thermostat allows for 3 stage heating. The HP will, of course be stage 1, and the furnace stage 2. Should I allow the control board in the furnace control the 2nd stage of the furnace or the thermostat?
3. The CAPF036B2C has a flowrater system, how does this differ from a TXV?
I am sorry for so many questions on my first post, but from reading, the install means everything and I want to make sure we get everything right. Thanks in advance.
Oh I almost forgot, I saw somewhere in this forum the goodman HP has a default defrost cycle of 30 mins. Is it recommended to change this to 90 mins for Ohio?
That's not a heat pump and you don't know enough to even understand if we told you what to do. And this remark "is" being nice.
Training is important!
Practical Training is a must!
sorry robo cplj-30...typing too fast..and I understand...
If you can have the stat stage the backup, I sure would. My system has a 3 stage stat, my own dual fuel kit consisting of a DPDT relay. Pump is first stage, 1st stage gas is 2nd stage and 2nd stage gas is 3rd stage, the last resort!!!
90 minutes is too long for defrosts around here, 60 minutes max.
BaldLoonie thank you for the information. I was just trying to get some info for myself so I understand what is happening. There were some things I was told that conflicted with what I have read. I understand the information I am getting is coming from 2 certified HVAC techs, but I just wanted to make sure. Some of the information was not to install dual fuel. Not to worry about how level the HP was, not to worry about the water heater and furnace on the same vent and to have the termostat control all 3 stages..yes I have an outdoor stat. Thank you for your help.
Guys I really think I need some help. Robo I know you probably dont want to answer this, but could you please just give me a yes or no answer to some of my questions. So far I have been told my vents to my upstairs were a cold air return, but I stopped them from running the vents into my cold air return, they set a 21" furnace on a 17 1/2" coil and had the heat exchangers laying on the back of the coil and told me that the new style stuff looked that way, my odt was wired up backwards and they have said they do not know how to wire the system up. They also kinked the lineset then pounded it out with a hammer and said that will not hurt anything. So my questions.
1. Does a kink in the line matter or will pounding it out with a hammer giving it 2 flat sides and a small kink be ok?
2. Will the wiring diagram that came with the heap pump work with my dual fuel system? Thank you in advance for all your help.
Sir, in all due respect, you say you have two "certified HVAC techs" and you have to come here and ask those questions?? Now, say to yourself, "Self, does this make sense?". Okay, I thought so. I'd suggest you get someone over there before that install gets too out of hand and it costs you big money to fix it, or costs you big money to run it, thinking it is fixed.
Bobby
Bobbyb I 110% agree with you, but I cant do that without offending them. One is my dad and the other is his friend that has been doing HVAC work for a while. I know I should just trust what they say to be true, but I thought my questions should be no brainers for an HVAC tech and what they are saying does not make sense to me, that is why I am here. I can read a wiring diagram as good as the next person that is how I notice the backwards wiring. It doesn't make sense to me that a kinked line would be ok considering we try so hard to regulate the flow with a TXV. To me, the answers are obvious, but when an HVAC tech tells me something different or says they do not know how to do something it is up to me to find the answer. By they way if anyone needs PC help feel free to ask away.
Not being ale to see how kinked the lines are we can't tell if its too much or not.
Sounds like you have a bee's nest about to be stirred up, using your father and a friend of his, and they admit they don't know how to wire it, and you alreadt know they don't know how to install the rest of it.
Who will get over the hurt feelings first, your dad and his friend, or YOU with a poorly working heating and cooling system, and possibily endless equipment problems.
Okay, what a situation to be in.....Duel fuel is great if it is designed, installed and set up properly. If it isn't set up properly, then you will never see the benefits of it and it could cost you more money in the long run. You are correct when you say your questions should be no-brainers for a tech cause it ain't that hard. At least it shouldn't be for a "certified tech". Anyway, I can't see the kink, but just this weekend I kinked a lineset. I did straighten it out pretty good and it would have probably worked, but I still cut it out and replaced a short piece of copper to get rid of the kink. As far as the wiring, it can be done a few different ways depending on how you want the system to operate. You mention ODT, so I am assuming you are taking out the HP and firing the furnace at a certain outdoor temp. Most manufacturers have add-on heatpump kits with a diagram of how they want their equipment wired and it includes whatever relays and such you need to make it work. Some stats have a duel-fuel feature and it can all be controlled from the stat. There are just so many variables that it is hard for us to be real concise from a keyboard.
Bobby
Thanks for the info BobbyB maybe that is a good idea to just grab a fossil fuel kit and hand my dad the the wiring diagram for it, unless you know where I can find a good diagram. The white-Rodgers diagram is not that good, it also says see manufacturer for wiring and the diagram that came with the HP and outdoor stat diagram. It is currently wired in accordance with the HP diagram. I will also have him cut out the kink in the line.
Manufacturer: Goodman
GMV90703BXA
CPLJ30-1
CAPF036B2C
White Rogers 1F95-371
Not an ARI rated HP/Coil combination, if you keep the flowrator at least make sure they change it to the correct size, that coil doesnt come with the correct size for the CPLJ30, you could also ditch the White Rodgers stat in favor of a Honeywell VisionPro, it has a dual fuel capability
Thank you swampfox..I will definately tell them about that.
Hey swampfox where did you find that info....I double checked with the dealer when I bought the coil and they said it was correct, but if I went with the next step up I would have to change the size. Not that I am doubting you, it seems you guys here know much more than anyone around here.
That combo is not listed on ARI's website, http://www.ariprimenet.org you can see for yourself if you like, kind of a tricky site to navigate though, the flowrator size I know from experience, and is a commonly overlooked thing when installing the 12 SEER and up Goodman equipment where changing the flowrator is required.
Great thank you for the info swampfox
Finally everything is now installed...just need to test everything out. Thank you to everyone for your help.
Post some pictures so we can nitpick it to death
ahh man you guys would kill this install...I nitpicked it to death so I can imagine what you guys would say. It's not working anyways, so I think I may need to call someone out. The furnace turns on and runs the HP works as AC, but the HP never turns on for heat mode and the diag light lights constant, which by the book means no input from the tstat.