one amp battery charging may be too much for the battery. That is why I use the OEM charger for charging and a separate one for usage.
I took a small motorcycle battery and a small inverter and made a power source in a bag for my H10G.
Used it for two years or more until the battery went bad and haven't made another one yet.
Was great to have the portable power.
I have a Johnson Controls RLD-H10PM with the optional 120V Power Supply Adapter (P/N RLD-H10PM-101) which allows for operation on 120V.
The adapter is rated at 13.5V / 1700ma and I use it for both charging and operation if the battery is low. I don't know if the charging switches off when you turn on the unit, but that really doesn't matter to me as I've had no issues using the adapter for either mode.
does the H10pm from Johnson controls work good with 410a refrigerant
also, Id like to ask how high can I pressure up the high side of the system with the scroll compressor in the circuit?
Some of you may remember a thread I started a few weeks ago... I was changing the battery in my H10-PM (usually do every 2 years)... and hooked it up backwards... let out the magic smoke... whoops. The unit was only 16 (sixteen) years old, and still sharp as a tack for R-22 (not so good with 410 though... probably age).
Bought a new H10-PM from the lowest price folks I found from a Google search, I think it was $395 with free shipping... It was supposed to be a Yokogama, but I received a Bacharach... not complaining.
So now I have an extra battery, an old dead H10PM, an extra charger, and a new H10PM that works GREAT! And yes, it does smell 410, albeit only in the most sensitive mode.
Since I only do resi, this is a GREAT unit! VERY rugged, and very forgiving.
IMO the key to battery maintenance is to not let it run down too much. It is a sealed lead-acid battery (similar to an auto battery), these prefer to be kept charged and not let run down. My short-coming with the battery was to ignore it for 5-6 mos during off season. If I had brought it inside and charged it once a month... I probably would get better battery life.
On the charger... I have on many occasions (with the old unit and old charger) plugged it in to chase a leak. Usually I would let it sit for 5-10 min on the charger before turning on the H-10... this seemed to work best. Never a problem justifying my hunch of a bad coil (screaming at me), or bad service valves or schraders (chirping merrily), or it takes a little longer to find a leak in a condenser coil.
While I am at it, here is a tip for finding a leak inside a wall (nail in lineset): Grab the lineset at the top, and rattle it... then stick your leak detector into the hole at the bottom where the lineset comes out of the wall... It will take a few minutes, but the freon is heavier than air... so it drifts down. Works for me every time. Then the fun part is to decide where to cut the hole in the wall first. Hint: Usually it is the SL, so look for oil on the outside of the SL, then go up until you find the leak. Hope this helps.
Galatians 2:20-21; Colossians 1: 21-22 & 26-27; 3:1-4; Romans Ch's 5-6-7-8
2 Chronicles 7:14
Quality work at a fair price with excellent customer service.
Yes, thanks Ga-HVAC for taking the time for your post and tips.
Got myself a bacharach also. Used mostly on r22 and r134. Havent tried 410 yet. good to know that it does work on 410.
Where do u guys buy ur reference bottle? Preferably some where in the gta. Mine is still full but the openning was gummed up by the pad under the bottle cap. so nothings coming out.