Anybody with any well knowledge?

[timdrag]

So they just drilled my well at my new house.

The good news...It's putting out 50gpm.
The bad... its 300ft deep.

I need to select a pump to get it up to the house. Any thoughts?

[madhat]

That's a nice depth, mines 300 ft. The pump sets at 286 Ft. I have a Goulds 13 stage, with a Franklin motor. Make sure they match the voltage to your power. If you have 200V a 230V won't last long. I run 238 to 245V, so my motor is in that range. I run 65 to 56 psi on my system. Get the biggest Extrol tank you can afford, or put two tanks in that can be isolated. It's no fun loose power and not having enough water to quickly finish your shower.

[meplumber]

Have your plumber size the pump. Several factors come into play.

Static level, lateral carry, height of the structure, well recovery...etc..

Your plumber or his pump supplier will know how to match the pump curve to your exact application and can provide you with the proper pump and wire size that will provide you with many years of quality service.

Agree with the largest tank you can afford suggestion.

[craig1]

whatever pump you choose, make sure to put a manual reset pressure switch on it. It only costs a couple bucks more than the standard switch and will save your pump if your well somehow goes dry.

If the pressure drops below 20 PSI, the safety switch activates and shuts down the pump.

[tbirdtbird]

agree with craig1, and would also suggest a check valve at the top of the well

[karsthuntr]

Top and bottom or just top?

I've always just had one at the bottom.

[madhat]

Franklin Electric also has Constant Pressure Controllers. It's like having a Frequency drive on your well pump. The pump should have a foot valve at the bottom of the pump. I've heard of inline checks, burning out the pump after the pump becomes air bound. Just about everyone I know that has a pump above ground has had them struck by lightening. My neighbor got hit twice when he had a Jet pump on a 90 Ft hand dug well.

[tbirdtbird]

my Franklin had no foot valve; the water in the vertical section of pipe would drain back occasionally and the pump would end up pumping air thru the house piping, very annoying; it would not work properly until a check valve was installed at the top of the well, never had any problems with it. As usual there is more than one way to solve a problem. Not sure how a submersible pump becomes air bound. A low limit pressure switch set to 20 as stated above, or something equivalent, would prevent any burnout, for any low water or low pressure reason and is strongly suggested also

[Midlyph]

If you go with a submersible pump there will be a motor starter in a small control box at the top of the well, they run about ~$50-$75. Always keep a spare on on hand. When you use your spare restock it, they burn out from time to time. Life without running water is not any fun, if you are married life without running water is even less fun.

[John Culpepper]

We've got one 360' foot deep and a check valve at about 200' foot. 15 hp pump and it hasn't gone dry yet. If the motor exceeds the need the rest dumped back down the well shaft. we just use it for irrigation. The thing that was bad was the three hundred and and sixty feet of three phase #8 wire to run the pump.

[tbirdtbird]

"If you go with a submersible pump there will be a motor starter in a small control box at the top of the well, they run about ~$50-$75. Always keep a spare on on hand. When you use your spare restock it, they burn out from time to time. Life without running water is not any fun, if you are married life without running water is even less fun. "

totally agree; that control box has the cap or caps