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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    435

    heat pump reversing valve stuck

    I have a Goodman Heat Pump, model GSV130241BA, that I installed in my apartment last fall. I went to turn my cooling on for the first time only to find it was heating. After some digging and verifying, I found that the reversing valve is stuck in the heating position. Does anyone know of a way to attempt to break the piston loose and attempt to get it operating properly again or am I stuck with pulling it out and replacing it?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    43
    orange on...orange off... orange on.....repeat
    fixes many. hope that aint diy. i want a pro membership oneday

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Columbia, MD
    Posts
    3,830
    energizing and de energizing the valve. make sure there is pressure difference, and maybe the lines have oil in them. cant give any more info

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Puget Sound area, Wa
    Posts
    130
    If you just installed it, isn't it under warranty?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    435
    Quote Originally Posted by douglask View Post
    orange on...orange off... orange on.....repeat
    fixes many. hope that aint diy. i want a pro membership oneday
    No DIY, I am an employed service tech. I did do this about 5 times, didnt even hear it budge. I wasn't quite sure if this would have any effect, I am going to try it some more.


    The unit is under warranty, but I still have to remove all the refer, cut out the valve, put a new one in, charge it. I'm looking for the easy way

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Puget Sound area, Wa
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by HuNGRYTeCH View Post
    No DIY, I am an employed service tech. I did do this about 5 times, didnt even hear it budge. I wasn't quite sure if this would have any effect, I am going to try it some more.


    The unit is under warranty, but I still have to remove all the refer, cut out the valve, put a new one in, charge it. I'm looking for the easy way
    LOL! ok, one guy showed me you can take a chunk of wood like a 2"x4", place on one end of it and hit it with a hammer. He told me sometimes they come sticky from the factory and this can free it up. It worked
    *note, i've never done this personally and only seen it work that one time. I wouldn't hit it too hard but then again if it isn't working what harm can you cause it, LOL

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    43

    Question

    couple gentle wacks with dead blow hammer before and during orange on with syst running

    goodman will now send out rv with longer connections for a somewhat easier changeout

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    4,619
    are you hearing a clicking noise when doing orange on orange off I assume you are getting voltage to the Selinoid and the Selinoid is good as goodmans default to heat

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    43
    like last poster said or could be stat issue. goodman should energize for cooling

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    43

    Talking

    now that's getting my post count up. how many for pro membership...15? 25? getting closer.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    435
    Quote Originally Posted by johnbeck1000 View Post
    LOL! ok, one guy showed me you can take a chunk of wood like a 2"x4", place on one end of it and hit it with a hammer. He told me sometimes they come sticky from the factory and this can free it up. It worked
    *note, i've never done this personally and only seen it work that one time. I wouldn't hit it too hard but then again if it isn't working what harm can you cause it, LOL
    thats why you wanted to know about warranty, thought you were going to say to just replace it. that will be my last resort though.

    i do have 24v going to my solenoid, I honestly cant say if it is clicking, that I will check tomorow, in the sun light. it always takes so much longer working on your own equipment...

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Puget Sound area, Wa
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by HuNGRYTeCH View Post
    thats why you wanted to know about warranty, thought you were going to say to just replace it. that will be my last resort though.

    i do have 24v going to my solenoid, I honestly cant say if it is clicking, that I will check tomorow, in the sun light. it always takes so much longer working on your own equipment...
    No I was actually meaning why don't you replace it, LOL! I do know what you mean about repairs taking so long for our own systems.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    435
    Quote Originally Posted by johnbeck1000 View Post
    No I was actually meaning why don't you replace it, LOL! I do know what you mean about repairs taking so long for our own systems.
    O man, not what I wanted to hear. I most likely will but it would be nice not having to. I am thinking hitting it with a hammer will lead to replacing it. And since it is my own system it should only take 3 weeks to do it.

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