Fryer kicking off

[sugarshack60931]

I have a Pitco Frialator E/12 that heats up once then pops the high limit switch. Is it the thermostat or is it the high limit switch?

[marter]

replace them both. its what i do, there is no reason not to do both at the same time.
it'll take you longer to figure out which one it is, then to just replace them

[chrldwlf]

What Marter says....

[sugarshack60931]

Thanks will do!

[bernardc]

Measure the oil temperature. If it goes over 400ºF before popping, the high limit is doing its job. Many Bob Shaw operating stats fail open because of condensed grease gumming up its push rod. The high-limit stat is more robust.

NEVER jumper out the high limit or you're sure to have a fire because then BOTH stats are failed and the temperature will quickly reach autoignition. Kitchen staff are tempted to jumper out to high limit to get through a rush time. Always check for a correctly wired high limit whenever you service these fryers. Sometimes they just short the "blue bird" connector under the thermopile ferrule nut, and you can't tell by just looking.

[jeep6275]

or it could be the gas valve sticking open. ive had both honneywell and robertshaw valves stick open.

[VTP99]

Well now you might as well go buy a new deep fryer

[EjBreeze]

Measure the oil temperature. If it goes over 400ºF before popping, the high limit is doing its job. Many Bob Shaw operating stats fail open because of condensed grease gumming up its push rod. The high-limit stat is more robust.

X2, But if you want replace the thermostat, high limit, and gas valve

[Trublshter]

That made sense to me that the thermostat could fail open. I've only worked on a couple of fryers in the past. Don't most do a warm up when starting, to cycle the heat to gradually heat up the oil or is that only on certain types of fryers?

[tech-e]

replace them both. its what i do, there is no reason not to do both at the same time.
it'll take you longer to figure out which one it is, then to just replace them

X2

[dfelt]

By the date I see probably resolved one way or another but I was going to say that sometimes the high limit capillary tube can touch against the element and of course would overheat.Does this model have the element interlock switch that opens to keep fr.energising when elements are up?If does maybe check for phantom issues.

[newbeetech]

just bypass in see wheb unit turned on while checking temp.

[kim]

Anybody that says change without testing is not right.

Your job is to inform the costumer, then follow their instructions
1st find out what is not doing its job.
2nd jump out a part if possible to test another part
3rd tell the costumer how much it cost to fix the problem
4th advise the costumer about potential problem that might cause the repair to get more expensive (if possible)

If the limit cuts out at 400F it is doing its job.
If the fryer is getting above 400F, is the thermostat closed. It could be a gas valve.
If the limit cuts out below 400F, jump it while you test the t'stat.
When you have a good understanding of the problem, talk to the costumer.
Stop studying the fryer when the cost to repair start getting close to the cost to replace. A new fryer cost $750. A gas valve costs nearly that much.

Problem comes in when it acts normal during your test. Hard to diagnose intermittant problems.