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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    588

    Fixed another hacked together mess.

    Took out a 125k btu 80%, installed a 60k btu 90%. Little cracker box house.
    They had a 5 ton drive, pulling air through a 16x8 duct mounted to the BACK of the furnace...
    New indoor and outdoor equipment, still had time for a handful of service calls.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE OHIO
    Posts
    778
    Looks nice. What brand furnace is that?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    588
    Tempstar.

  4. #4
    Looks like a nice clean install.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Rome, Georgia
    Posts
    4
    Good looking job.

  6. #6
    (The wise men of modern thought) adore a god made of putty or of wax - plastic, effeminate, molluscous, with no masculine faculty about him, and no quality that entitles him to the respect of just and honest men, for a being who cannot be angry at wrongdoing is destitute of one of the essential virtues, and a moral Ruler who is not angry with the wicked, and who refuses to punish crime, is not divine. ---Spurgeon

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Cincinnati, Oh
    Posts
    4,923
    Unfortunetly, I have 2 things I'll nitpick.

    Looks like you installed a little giant condensate pump. Looks like you cut off the plug end. Unfortunetly, cutting the plug off means you also modified the pump from it's UL rating. Since it's no longer UL rated, you can't use it.
    Not saying I've never done it. I don't think it's any less safe because of it, but it is what it is :-\. They make us install a "tamper proof GFI" (because all outlets used by HVAC must be tamper proof GFI) outlet for it to be plugged into.
    I'll assume that either the electric switch is a box on the ceiling, or you've got a breaker in sight.

    Secondly, your drip leg is not on a vertical drop. I do see how it's on a vertical piece of pipe, but it's not on an actual drop. It would fail here. Also, it may be a local code, but in cincinnati your not allow to have a union in a vestibule.

    Nitpicky crap, but it's the kind of crap inspectors are picking on.


    PERSONALLY, I think it looks freaking awsome. Extremely clean, especially the return. The return transistion looks EXTREMELY clean.
    I also like the slab it's sitting on. We use furnace bricks, but I like the slab better.
    "Better tell the sandman to stay away, because we're gonna be workin on this one all night."

    "Dude, you need more than 2 wires to a condenser to run a 2 stage heatpump."

    "Just get it done son."

    Dad adjusted

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    S.E. Pa
    Posts
    6,141

    Cool few things to consider

    The gas piping would be acceptable under the IFGC and NFPA 54 because there is a gravity sediment trap with the gas having to flow above the trap. If the trap was in the horizontal section, also known as a "running trap", it would not be approved. Cinn. may have a local ordinance more restrictive but the two major codes would allow this if I'm seeing it correctly.

    Ground union should be outside of the appliance cabinet but downstream of the shutoff.

    If the plug is cut off then how do you disconnect the power to service it? That's why the plug. I always wire the emergency circuit to break 'R' if the pump's float switch fails. It's a good idea to put a wet switch in the Aux. port of the coil, too.

    I don't see any duct sealing on the return. Required for the first 10 ft. back plus any new duct work sealed with UL 181 tape or mastic.

    No cleanout tee in the condensate pipe.

    looks like an oversized 1" filter protruding out of the rack. Should be correct size with a tight fitting cover.

    Don't see insulation on the coil. Need R-6

    Did you use clear primer on the PVC? Must use purple by code.

    Rest looks nice and clean. Nice transition in return. I like sitting the unit on a condenser pad. Nice job on liquid line bend.

    Looks like half a can of Teflon pipe dope on the ground union on the water heater gas line and no overflow pan. Any pics of the WH?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Cincinnati, Oh
    Posts
    4,923
    Quote Originally Posted by hearthman View Post
    The gas piping would be acceptable under the IFGC and NFPA 54 because there is a gravity sediment trap with the gas having to flow above the trap. If the trap was in the horizontal section, also known as a "running trap", it would not be approved. Cinn. may have a local ordinance more restrictive but the two major codes would allow this if I'm seeing it correctly.
    I think you are seeing it correctly. It's probably a local code on the gas drop.

    Did you use clear primer on the PVC? Must use purple by code.
    That, is probably a local code on your end. It's not code here.
    I suggest ending the idea of local codes!!!
    "Better tell the sandman to stay away, because we're gonna be workin on this one all night."

    "Dude, you need more than 2 wires to a condenser to run a 2 stage heatpump."

    "Just get it done son."

    Dad adjusted

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    588
    Quote Originally Posted by hearthman View Post
    The gas piping would be acceptable under the IFGC and NFPA 54 because there is a gravity sediment trap with the gas having to flow above the trap. If the trap was in the horizontal section, also known as a "running trap", it would not be approved. Cinn. may have a local ordinance more restrictive but the two major codes would allow this if I'm seeing it correctly.

    Ground union should be outside of the appliance cabinet but downstream of the shutoff.

    If the plug is cut off then how do you disconnect the power to service it? That's why the plug. I always wire the emergency circuit to break 'R' if the pump's float switch fails. It's a good idea to put a wet switch in the Aux. port of the coil, too.
    Kill the power to the furnace, there is a disconnect box mounted on the wall, it was existing. The furnace is grounded, the pump is grounded to the furnace, I see nothing wrong with that, local inspectors wouldn't know the difference
    I don't see any duct sealing on the return. Required for the first 10 ft. back plus any new duct work sealed with UL 181 tape or mastic.
    Custom metal fittings, there is a foam seal between filter cab and furnace, foam seal between filter cab and B-end, little silver silicone on the corners of the transition. I do not put mastic or tape on my stuff, it looks like ****. Why do a nice job, then put tape all over it for no good reason and make it look like ****? If the inspector wants it on there then he should carry tape with him. Only been asked to tape stuff up one time. Custom metal fittings fit together very nice. Air leakage would be minimal, plus it would all be before the filter.
    No cleanout tee in the condensate pipe.

    looks like an oversized 1" filter protruding out of the rack. Should be correct size with a tight fitting cover.
    It has a 5" filter between the furnace and b-end, I don't put furnaces in with 1" filters, no body should for that matter. That should be a code but isn't.
    Don't see insulation on the coil. Need R-6
    The cabinet is insulated, that is the way cased coils come.

    Did you use clear primer on the PVC? Must use purple by code.
    There again the purple cleaner looks like ****. Why spend all that time to do a nice job then make it look like **** with purple cleaner.

    Rest looks nice and clean. Nice transition in return. I like sitting the unit on a condenser pad. Nice job on liquid line bend.
    I like to use plastic equipment pads in basements. Corner blocks are ok but with those I don't have any support under the filter cabinet/b-end.

    Looks like half a can of Teflon pipe dope on the ground union on the water heater gas line and no overflow pan. Any pics of the WH?
    No pics of WH, we didn't mess with that.

    Most codes are stupid. Funny you say that, I changed a highside at one of the local inspectors houses yesterday.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    1,339
    Nice clean install. I would be happy with it.
    Never give up; Never surrender!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Albuquerque NM
    Posts
    2,484
    No safety overflow switch on the secondary drain of the coil?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    S.E. Pa
    Posts
    6,141
    You have an interesting attitude towards codes. I hope you do understand that by codes I mean national standards that were adopted into LAW. Failure to follow the LAW is negligence. Should something go wrong, you can personally be in deep trouble.

    Glad to hear to have some form of internal insulation and sealing. Not recognized means by the codes. Soon, the local governments will require inspection and testing to verify compliance so you won't be able to go freestyle or cut corners.

    Couldn't see the media filter---looked like part of a 1" sticking up out of the drop.

    The purple is there to assure the inspector you used a proper primer before solvent welding. You can't tell that when you use clear. If a joint failed and someone got hurt, you would be hung out to dry. There is a way to be neat with purple.

    The more I look at that plastic pad indoors the more I like it.

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