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Thread: SEER
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09-15-2005, 09:49 PM #1
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I know that the higher the seer the better. But by how much i kave a 9 or 10 year old unit and am going to get eather a york 12 seer or a york 14 seer the price difference is about $850 how can i tell if it is worth the extra expence. How much more efficient is a 12 seer than a 14 seer.
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09-15-2005, 10:21 PM #2
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Originally posted by arkight
I know that the higher the seer the better. But by how much i kave a 9 or 10 year old unit and am going to get eather a york 12 seer or a york 14 seer the price difference is about $850 how can i tell if it is worth the extra expence. How much more efficient is a 12 seer than a 14 seer.
So a search on this topic, there are a lot of threads here that can help you in your decision making...Happiness is the only good. The time to be happy is now. The place to be happy is here. The way to be happy is to make others so.
-Robert Green Ingersoll
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09-15-2005, 11:41 PM #3
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A lot depends on your climate conditions and price of electricty and gas as to whether a higher SEER is worthwhile. Have to do a bit of homework to figure it out. Post the area you live in and your average winter and summer temperatures.
"Go big or Go Home"
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09-16-2005, 08:04 AM #4There are a lot of factors that determine the payback time in years. An $850 difference in intitial cost is a considerable amount to make-up with a two point SEER increased.Originally posted by arkight
I know that the higher the seer the better. But by how much i have a 9 or 10 year old unit and am going to get either a york 12 seer or a york 14 seer the price difference is about $850 how can i tell if it is worth the extra expence. How much more efficient is a 12 seer than a 14 seer.
Also, in order to achieve the two point SEER increase every aspect of the system and installation has to be perfect, or there may be little or no difference in efficiency.
I would have an energy audit done on your home to locate all the areas where insulation and other work could greatly reduce the air-infiltration, duct air leaks, heat-gain and heat-loss, etc. This could have far greater payback in both heating and cooling with the use of smaller units in the future to accomplishing your comfort goals.
Whatever you do, do not oversize heat and air equipment, instead for heating have a support source of heat for the few extreme days or hours when supplemental sources may be needed. Increased air circulation (portable fans) will take care of your comfort during the few extreme summer hours.
http://www.udarrell.com/air-conditio...tent-heat.html
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09-16-2005, 08:26 AM #5
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OK i live in houston it is hot in the summer and not very cold in the winter with the exception of last christmas when it snowed. Electricity is expensive here about 12.5c per kilowatt if i remember right. My unit stays on all day and is about 9 or 10 years old and i have the thermostat set to 79 and i never see 79 until the sun goes down.
Another thing i am planning on dooing is putting a solar attic fan in my roof and adding some blow in insulation to the attic as well. Hopefull that will help as well
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09-16-2005, 10:29 AM #6
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Try this to see your savings http://www.hvacopcost.com/
In your location ,you'll save some money.
Adding insulation can reduce the size system youneed.In Florida ,going from R11 to R30 ,on a 2500 sq ft home/attic,reduces the system needed by 1/2 ton.So have a load calculation done with the new insulation.Or post the existing insulation and R value of the new ,and Desiger Dan,will tell you how much to reduce the existing equip. size.This really saves you money.
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09-16-2005, 10:48 AM #7
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Thanks
People say if it is properly installed it will work well how can i be sure to get it properly installed ohh yea the unit is 3 ton. The insulation is what was used in original construstion which was 1983. The home is about 1650sq ft and i was going to buy the blow in insulation from home depot and blow it in myself. I wasn't going to use the kind with the fiberglass beacouse it was like 4 times the cost and the people that sold it said the extra cost wan't worth it. So i could add as much as needed.
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09-16-2005, 11:38 AM #8
Summer Outdoor Design conditions in Houston, TX 95-F Dry Bulb and 77-F Wet Bulb or around 46% Relative Humidity. You have a long cooling season there and if your electricity is natural gas generated your electric rates could skyrocket.
Do more than just the insulation, have them check the air-infiltration, and do a thorough check of the duct system for leaks, sizng, and proper duct insulation.
After all the needed work is done, --have an accurate manual J for heat-gain/heat-loss, manual S for A/C equipment sizing and maual D for duct sizing to each room. (Install duct dampers.)
Then, I would get bids from several contractors, and figure how long for the payback. Getting a contractor that does exceptional quality installations is the key to an efficient low maintenance system! - DarrellAOP Forum Rules:
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09-16-2005, 02:39 PM #9
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Based on annual cooling costs of $1000 per year, the difference of a 12 and 14 SEER is about $180 to $200 a year(estimated)can vary depending on cooling costs and installation.
To achieve the rated SEER it is very dependant on correct sizing, and the duct is the correct size!
Where you will see more savings is going from a 9 or 10 SEER to a 12 or 14.


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