If you want to distribute to the entire house, hooking to the duct is best. Just have to make sure to have control to the indoor blower.
Trying to learn about the install I have coming up. RNC, house on slab, I am assuming the intake from outside will have to be a roof vent and the same for the exhaust.
Ive read that some hook into the duct system and others just dump into living space ?
Anybody ?
If you want to distribute to the entire house, hooking to the duct is best. Just have to make sure to have control to the indoor blower.
Yes, it has a crossover filter and most ERV's have 6" hookup. There have been instances when I just installed 2- 6" B-Vents out the roof to hook to.
I try to stay away from penetrating roofs whenever possible. Is it possible for you?
Are you using this for fresh air only or an exhaust system? With FA only, all you need is to pipe it in the Return Air, with an exhaust system you would need to vent from pick up points like bathrooms, kitchen and laundry locations etc...
You can duct it into the heating/cooling system duct with either type.
The whole idea of using a ERV system is to recieve fresh air exchange without losing too much heating or cooling. (Energy Recovery Ventilator) It is designed to pull undesirable air from a space (return) and mix and filter fresh air (outside). The air coming in through the mixer can then be fed into your supply duct and the bad air exhausted outside.
I plan on keeping it seperate from the supply or return. I read some research where they tested 8 houses in Raleigh, and they determined this was the best way to install
Honeywell ERV should be here next week.
I typically exhaust the bathrooms and duct the fresh air to the return side of the duct system. If you duct fresh air directly into the living space you can sometime get cool draft complaints. If bathroom fans are in or ducting the bathrooms isn't easy now, you can also install a central return for the stale air exhaust. We usually vent the intake and exhaust out the side wall and not the roof.
Joseph, I am doing a 12 x 12 central return to exaust the stale air. And I will tie in the incoming fresh air to the return.
I am planning on just doing the fan interlock for control. This would just involve two wires from the furnace to the ERV ( green and common ) correct ?
Are you doing the central air system also? If so, you can install a honeywell thermostat with ventilation controls built in. It makes for a nicer installation and honeywell has some great control options.
I usually involve three wires. Some ERV come with the terminals ready and some do not and you will be required to figured it out yourself. But you don't want to power the "G" terminal other then the stat otherwise AC unit will turn on!
Like Joseph said, there are stats that have built in ventilation terminals, but cost more.
Yes, this is the rough in for new resi. construction that I am doing. I would think it would be best to have the erv run only when the cetral air is running that way the incoming outdoor air will get conditioned thru the indoor air handler and coil or furnace depending on the season.
ERV model : honeywell ER150C2004
What does a honeywell iaq do diff. than a fan interlock ?
[QUOTE=arc8;10378172]I usually involve three wires. Some ERV come with the terminals ready and some do not and you will be required to figured it out yourself. But you don't want to power the "G" terminal other then the stat otherwise AC unit will turn on!
Like Joseph said, there are stats that have built in ventilation terminals, but cost more.[/QUOTE
honeywell ER150, installation manual, Figure 15, shows a fan interlock diagram tied into G on furnace and G on the stat. Wouldn't that work ok in heat and cool?
Yes interlock to "G" for continuous fan. And yes, you primarily need during heating and cooling seasons when house is all closed up.
Question
Say its 95 outside and 75 inside. 50% RH outside.
What temp. would the incoming fresh air be ?
If you have a erv central controller or a tstat that controls the erv you can control how you want the unit to run. If it is hot and humid out and cool and dry inside the heat will transfer from the incoming air to the out going air. If its 95 outside and 75 inside you'll prob get 80 degree incoming air. I'd suggest downloading the installation manual and reading it end to end. You really need to understand how it works so you dont sound foolish discussing the entire system with the owners when you are done.
The ERV should run independently of the air handler/A/C, otherwise the amount of ventilation would be determined by how hot or cold it is outdoors.
A desired ventilation rate can be accomplished by the manufacturer's timer control or a thermostat ventilation setting.
The vents should not be routed to the roof, otherwise hot air radiating off the roof and shingle offgassing would be brought inside through the intake.
Most ERVs will have some type of filter, but only the air handler/A/C filter will address air already inside the house as well as fresh air being brought in.
A misconception is that ERVs mix stale air with fresh air to transfer heat or cooling energy. In better ERVs, there is nearly a complete air stream separation. Sensible (heat) transfer generally takes place by conduction, while moisture is transferred by various means.
HVI (Home Ventilating Institute) provides the only independent rating for ERVs, which can range from @ 55-85% Apparent Sensible Effectiveness (HVI term). Latent (moisture) transfer varies from @ 30-60%.