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  1. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    6,564
    Like mojo said they run warmer than -14˚F
    This thing is never shutting off
    Either the set point is too cold or the condensing unit relay is stuck but he said it is defrosting fine.
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    DFW, TX
    Posts
    645
    Your initial complaint was the evaporator was frozen. Let me ask you this: Was the coil itself frozen? Or, was there ice everywhere AROUND the coil like in the air ducts, but the coil itself was clear? I've seen both on Traulsens. Air duct icing I usually find on boxes with hardware issues, doors stay cracked open, gaskets torn, or even customer stacking food too high blocking ducts, or box not level and won't drain properly. As far as the actual evaporator coil itself icing up, this should be taken care of by the electric defrost.

    Considering that you said the box was at -14*F and like the mojo said, factory default is only -4*F, you may want to start looking at all your settings in the IntelaTraul. I've seen several of them fail, and it could explain the coil freezing up and the box pulling down so cold (unless somebody just adjusted the settings incorrectly.) The Traulsen manual has all the default settings, and there is a link of it online, you can do a quick search if you don't have a printed manual.

    I can also tell you from experience that you have to be careful adjusting the TXV on the Traulsen. I personally had a single door reach in freezer that was pulling down a little slow, superheat was about 40. Condenser clean, everything else looked normal. Pressures were like 350 / 20# (R404a). Box was at about 30*F. I opened up the TXV a couple of turns to lower the superheat, and pressures went to like 450 / 30#. Superheat came down some but I didn't feel safe with the pressures that high. The Traulsen's I have seen do not have a receiver and this one didn't either. I think the main issue may have been that the hot gas condensate loop had been cut out and replaced with electric heater. It seems that hot gas loop really helps on hot defrost pull-downs, but I haven't compared two boxes to see how much of a difference it actually makes.

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    wedged in freezer shelf
    Posts
    6,564
    They actually tell you to replace them not to adjust them like the do with ice makers.
    I may have adjusted a few though
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    West of DFW
    Posts
    240
    I guess that's why the txv was opened up all the by another tech to try and get the SH to lower

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    DFW, TX
    Posts
    645
    OK I just re-read the info you posted and two things look wrong to me.

    First your pressures are 220/10#? That seems low. I would expect to see more like 17-20# suction and 270-300# head. It may be possible the TXV is acting up and restricting, causing low suction and therefore low head. Or it may be possible the charge is incorrect, (I do realize you weighed in virgin charge, I'm just saying....) Or if the box is really pulling to -14 then maybe the TXV is just doing its job and closing down a lot due to suction line being so cold. But I've never seen a Traulsen working correctly with pressures that low (I am fairly green so take this for what its worth!)

    Second, you state your IntelaTraul settings are all great.

    Defrost cut in/out -10 to 9 F
    Termination temp. 45 F
    This doesn't even make sense because there is no such thing as a "defrost cut-in" setting. Defrost is time initiated by the IBD setting, (interval between defrost) which should be 4 hours (= 6 defrosts per day). DDC (failsafe defrost time) should be 20 minutes. CDE (defrost termination temperature) should be 75*F, NOT 45.

    And if your IntelaTraul really says the cabinet is at -14*F, confirm it with a thermometer, if it really is, then as another person said, you may have a relay sticking (*edit or mis-programmed controller). If it's not, you may have a failed cabinet sensor probe.

    Good luck!

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