ReplyHow old is this unit,cause factory eng.default is supposed to be -4 °F.
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Ya I took that from post #3 after he had charged the unit. For the record you did ask him if the coil was iced up & in his first post he reported that.Originally Posted by markettech
I'm a little hesitant to correct you since were getting along so well and everything.......but I think at last report the temp was actually -14F.
10 psig fits ok in my mind with a -14F box temp (making an R404A assumption of course).
That said, if the +21F was measured near the compressor - I would simply think it's a matter of dialing in the SH a touch. But, we just don't know.....
Professional Member
How old is this unit,cause factory eng.default is supposed to be -4 °F.
FEN
Global Moderator
NO Thread in will increase spring tension. Thread out will decrease spring tension. In less refrigerant. Out more refrigerant. In more SH. Out less SH.
Professional Member*
Dammit!!Ya I took that from post #3 after he had charged the unit. For the record you did ask him if the coil was iced up & in his first post he reported that.
Well, to be honest he never said the coil was froze up.......he said he thawed it.
Maybe it was just cold
"The problem is the average person isn’t tuned in to lifelong learning, or going to seminars and so forth. If the information is not on television, and it’s not in the movies they watch, and it’s not in the few books that they buy, they don’t get it" - Jack Canfield
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9 yrs old.
Professional Member*
Well that is indeed the problem. You should have slapped the sh!t out of the tech and told him to fix his own problems!
My rule of thumb is to not eff with something unless you have a thorough understanding of what is going on with the system. It's easier to hunt for the true issue before wide sweeping adjustments have been made.
Depending upon how the coil was froze up, I would have been looking more at a defrost issue, defrost termination issue - or even door gaskets. I'd get a little history on this thing and find out what kind of product they are putting in it, and what incoming temp of the product was......long before ever throttling the TXV and/or pulling the charge.
You've got it exactly backwards. To increase superheat, you want to throttle back the flow of refrigerant through the coil. To do this you will turn the adjustment stem in (clockwise). To decrease superheat, you want to open up the flood gates - so to speak - and allow more refrigerant to flow through the coil. To do this you will back the adjustment stem out (counter clockwise).
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by 'ambient temp or environment was out of the norm.......so I'm going to leave that alone for right now.
"The problem is the average person isn’t tuned in to lifelong learning, or going to seminars and so forth. If the information is not on television, and it’s not in the movies they watch, and it’s not in the few books that they buy, they don’t get it" - Jack Canfield
Professional Member
Like mojo said they run warmer than -14˚F
This thing is never shutting off
Either the set point is too cold or the condensing unit relay is stuck but he said it is defrosting fine.
“If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”
Professional Member
Your initial complaint was the evaporator was frozen. Let me ask you this: Was the coil itself frozen? Or, was there ice everywhere AROUND the coil like in the air ducts, but the coil itself was clear? I've seen both on Traulsens. Air duct icing I usually find on boxes with hardware issues, doors stay cracked open, gaskets torn, or even customer stacking food too high blocking ducts, or box not level and won't drain properly. As far as the actual evaporator coil itself icing up, this should be taken care of by the electric defrost.
Considering that you said the box was at -14*F and like the mojo said, factory default is only -4*F, you may want to start looking at all your settings in the IntelaTraul. I've seen several of them fail, and it could explain the coil freezing up and the box pulling down so cold (unless somebody just adjusted the settings incorrectly.) The Traulsen manual has all the default settings, and there is a link of it online, you can do a quick search if you don't have a printed manual.
I can also tell you from experience that you have to be careful adjusting the TXV on the Traulsen. I personally had a single door reach in freezer that was pulling down a little slow, superheat was about 40. Condenser clean, everything else looked normal. Pressures were like 350 / 20# (R404a). Box was at about 30*F. I opened up the TXV a couple of turns to lower the superheat, and pressures went to like 450 / 30#. Superheat came down some but I didn't feel safe with the pressures that high. The Traulsen's I have seen do not have a receiver and this one didn't either. I think the main issue may have been that the hot gas condensate loop had been cut out and replaced with electric heater. It seems that hot gas loop really helps on hot defrost pull-downs, but I haven't compared two boxes to see how much of a difference it actually makes.
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They actually tell you to replace them not to adjust them like the do with ice makers.
I may have adjusted a few though
“If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”
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I guess that's why the txv was opened up all the by another tech to try and get the SH to lower
Professional Member
OK I just re-read the info you posted and two things look wrong to me.
First your pressures are 220/10#? That seems low. I would expect to see more like 17-20# suction and 270-300# head. It may be possible the TXV is acting up and restricting, causing low suction and therefore low head. Or it may be possible the charge is incorrect, (I do realize you weighed in virgin charge, I'm just saying....) Or if the box is really pulling to -14 then maybe the TXV is just doing its job and closing down a lot due to suction line being so cold. But I've never seen a Traulsen working correctly with pressures that low (I am fairly green so take this for what its worth!)
Second, you state your IntelaTraul settings are all great.
This doesn't even make sense because there is no such thing as a "defrost cut-in" setting. Defrost is time initiated by the IBD setting, (interval between defrost) which should be 4 hours (= 6 defrosts per day). DDC (failsafe defrost time) should be 20 minutes. CDE (defrost termination temperature) should be 75*F, NOT 45.Defrost cut in/out -10 to 9 F
Termination temp. 45 F
And if your IntelaTraul really says the cabinet is at -14*F, confirm it with a thermometer, if it really is, then as another person said, you may have a relay sticking (*edit or mis-programmed controller). If it's not, you may have a failed cabinet sensor probe.
Good luck!
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