How do I remove cartridge from taco pump.
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    66
    I just installed a Dunkirk boiler in my home last winter, the cir. pump is starting to make noise. It's a taco pump and I've never taken one of these apart. How do I remove the cartridge from this cir. pump so I can check it?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    654
    Noise from a cartridge circulator means usually 2 things....it has an air pocket in it, or there is a debris stuck in the impeller. Try purging the system free of air, make sure the boiler has system pressure on it too (>10 psi). If it still makes noise, drain off the pressure, and unscrew the 4 bolts that hold the motor on the housing. Real easy.


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    347
    make sure to drain it well or you will get wet. i always expect some water spilage. be prepaired.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Suppy NC
    Posts
    4,513
    no matter what turn the power off to the unit at the switch and the breaker
    i have seen water come out when you pull the cartrige and fall on the switch not a pleasant sight

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Henderson, NV
    Posts
    209
    When you did the install did you put isolation valves on either side of the circulating pump, if not you did yourself and any future Techs operating on the equipment a disservice, makes changing out any pump hassle free, just close the valves and perform the changeout, otherwise the system will have to be drained , which involves more wasted time on the job.

    As far as Taco pumps, the cartridge is a piece of cake to change out , loosen the 4 5/16" screws, make sure you observe the way the original cartridge comes out and put the new one in exactly the same, (meaning the gasket and gasket plate),if ya take it apart your better off just replacing it, especially if ya have to drain the system, doesnt pay to take it out to look at it and put it backtogether and hope it works, only to find it doesnt and you have to go through the process again.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    654
    Originally posted by steamer
    When you did the install did you put isolation valves on either side of the circulating pump, if not you did yourself and any future Techs operating on the equipment a disservice, makes changing out any pump hassle free, just close the valves and perform the changeout, otherwise the system will have to be drained , which involves more wasted time on the job.

    Here's a tip for changing out just about anything in a 'closed' system and having no isolation valves....drain off system pressure then do not allow any air to get into the system, open up the system to quickly change whatever (circ, vent, etc) and you'll hardly make a mess. It's commonly called "pulling a vacuum" and it works extremely well. We don't install isolation valves on heating systems, extra cost and just another source for a leak.


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    66
    I purged the system again and the noise from the pump got alittle bit quieter. You can still hear noise running through the baseboard though. I checked the pressure in the boiler and it was running at 20lbs. I dropped the pressure back down to 10lbs and it went back up to 20lbs again. I tried to adjust the fast fill valve by turning in and out the screw on top, but I can't get it to do anything. No matter which way I turn the screw, nothing happens, the pressure going right back to 20lbs. Do you think there is something wrong with the fast fill, maybe being at 20lbs pressure, its the water I hear in the baseboard, not the pump vibration. You should be able to adjust the pressure on the fast fill, right?

  8. #8
    oil-2-4-6-gas is offline Professional Member b&M _email server rejected
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    294
    what is the static fill pressure for your house supposed to be --how high is it from the boiler to the highest emitter--baseboard,radiator,or coil + ? you most likely are not turning the adjustement on the fill valve--fill pressure is specific-dependant on your homes' requirement- you installed a Dunkirk -- the circ. should have come with isolation valves---Btw you need to bleed the system----if your pump is installed --pumping away and your fill valve is tied in to the Point Of No pressure change --purge valves in the correct places this should be a piece of cake ----if you didn't follow accepted piping practices or Manufactures recommended piping --this may be a bear of a job

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    66
    Yes everything is correct, shut offs on each side of the cir.,purge valves, and we are pumping away. I have my fill valve tied into my return side of the boiler. It was on the return side on my old boiler and I had no problems with it, always ran at around 12lbs. I have to go to a second story, about 8-9 ft above the boiler. Everyone tells me to run my pressure around 10-12 lbs. There is a screw with a nut on it on top of the fill valve. This screw I can turn in or out and there is no diffrance in my pressure.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    697
    Is your circulator positioned with the shaft horizontal?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    66
    Yes the shaft is horizonal.

  12. #12
    oil-2-4-6-gas is offline Professional Member b&M _email server rejected
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    294
    what is the make and model of your fill valve-sounds like a taco -and typically all manufacturors like to see 12 psi as a minimum

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    67,595
    What type of expansion tank do you have.

    If its a bladder tank, was it air charged for 20 psi.
    If so, then youo can adjust the autofill all youo want, and it won't lower the pressure.

    Where is the purge valve located, in reference to the autofill.
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