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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by sprmktrefertech View Post
    if you are to do it as mentioned above....then remember that you are taking 230v from the LOADside of the contactor and removing 24 to the coil will not allow the control to be powered....instead do one or the other:

    -remove the cap tube going to the pump. press connection and don't forget to cap it or,put your oil gauge on... unless you want an oil bath....w/the cover in place(as temp. affects the heater inside) start it up and the contacts should open in the predetermined time of aprox.2 mins.

    the other way is to use a thin blade screw driver into the slot under the trip arm to simulate no oil press diff. and energizing the heater circuit and opening the L and M...Good luck!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by sprmktrefertech View Post
    to clarify....if you keep the relay then you can leave the jumper and wire 230v to the 230 term and to the one side of the relay coil the other side to M on the ofc.

    then...break your 24v control cicuit thru the N.O. contacts of your relay...or remove the relay and remove the jumper in the new oil control...and follow the directions as given by Ascj.

    what happened to the wiring diagram that came w/ the control?
    This is it I appreciate your patients: if I had a 230v control i would leave jumper in between 2 and m wire one leg on load side of contactor to 230v terminal on ofc take it to the relay then run m to other side of relay..... I am missing something again. Sorry I just want to know this inside and out.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    366
    Quote Originally Posted by BatesTech View Post
    This is it I appreciate your patients: if I had a 230v control i would leave jumper in between 2 and m wire one leg on load side of contactor to 230v terminal on ofc take it to the relay then run m to other side of relay..... I am missing something again. Sorry I just want to know this inside and out.
    If you mean 230v control circuit....yea, leave the jumper 'cause that will bring the power from t-2 to M and continue the circuit to one side of the contactor coil..the other side to 230-term and L to the load side....I really think what is tripping you up is the wording...uh if you would just look on the pdf I sent or google copeland OFC wiring bullitin to see it it is much easyr....or check the diagram that came w/ the control...once you see it,you'll understand.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    77
    Not comfortable taking cap tube off pump their is no schrader. I need to test it because I tried wiring it everyway possible except the right way make sure I did not damage the heater. What would happen if I put on ofc 230 and T to line v instead of load could I test it by removing my 24v control to contactor and test voltage at wire after 120 seconds?

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    366
    Quote Originally Posted by BatesTech View Post
    Not comfortable taking cap tube off pump their is no schrader. I need to test it because I tried wiring it everyway possible except the right way make sure I did not damage the heater. What would happen if I put on ofc 230 and T to line v instead of load could I test it by removing my 24v control to contactor and test voltage at wire after 120 seconds?
    No!!!then remove the crank case cap tube and check it that way.and... there is never a schrader in the oil connection,only in the top where your gauge goes.

    Here this should clear up any problems you are having...

    http://www.hvacrinfo.com/cope_ae_bulletins/TAE1095.PDF

    ....this also will show you how to "test" the control properly.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    25,930
    I've read through this thread and I still don't know what he root problem is.

    Why do you suspect a problem with the OFC?
    Last edited by jpsmith1cm; 05-01-2011 at 02:00 PM. Reason: Stupid touchscreen

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    I've read through this thread and I still don't know what he root problem is.

    Why do you suspect a problem with the OFC?
    Originally I wired ofc: 230 to L1, left jumper in between T and M, L on ofc to T2 of contactor and M to my relay 230v coil making or breaking my 24v other side of relay on my T3. Thought I could test it taking control voltage of contactor to compresser and 120 seconds lose my signal. Diddnt work so from there tried wiring threw trial and error replaced ofc thinking I wired it right.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    77

    How to wire p45 oil pressure switch with 120v coils HELP

    How to wire the johnson p45 oil pressure switch with 120 volt controls and is the jumper used. I am using a 480 to 120 volt transformer.

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