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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    287
    Here's the story as brief as I can tell it

    House 1900 sq foot split level 3 levels partially below grade, at grade, and upstairs. Mechanical room located below grade adjacent to family room.

    Equipment Carrier Weathermaker SX mated to a 3 ton 10 SEER Coleman in the last 5 years or so (note lines were cut and Coleman was installed, A coil is the old one.)


    I have been battling water in the lower level (mechanical room mainly) due to non HVAC problems and finally got that straightened out.

    We just came back from vacation Saturday to be met with 85 ish temperatures and 70 percent plus humidity. I started the AC up and every bit of "trunk" duct, the hosing from the condesate pump, the humidifier in the supply duct, the outside cabinet of the air handler is sweating profusely, getting water all over the damn place.

    I had a friend of the family come out today who owns an HVAC shop and he said everything was operating as it should. He saw that I had a dehumidifier and suggested that I plug it in , he also mentioned that whomever removed the louvered door to the utility room probably exacerbated the problem since the space is no longer conditioned.

    He said that my furnace was getting old and would probably need replacement in the not too distant future, but he wasnt trying to hard sell me a new system. He said mine was more of a case where we could schedule a replacement to fit in with his slow time in order for me to get the best deal. He also hooked me up with a Honeywell media filter to stick in my non functioning Carrier EAC. I was just using the regular 16x25x1 ones and they didnt fit in there that well.

    My question is, will a completely new system solve my problems, or is this ridiculous heatwave we are having right now cause that to happen with any system.

    When we got home from vacation, the house was 80 degrees and probably had 80 percent relative humidity. The AC has been running non stop (other than me shutting it off to give it a "break" once or twice, which may have been a bad idea?) and will not achieve a setpoint of 74 degrees. Should it take 3 days to wring all that moisture out of the air before you even start cooling down? It only seems to want to get to 75 and rises 2 degrees at the hottest part of the day.

    [Edited by billb7581 on 07-19-2005 at 07:30 PM]

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    287
    Oh... one more quick question,

    Is there some kind of "catch pan" that can be installed under a new unit to catch any excess water? Like they have with washing machines.



    If there is any more info I can provide, please let me know.. thanks in advance.

  3. #3
    sounds to me like you should be calling an ac company.
    friends are friends.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    287
    Originally posted by airworx
    sounds to me like you should be calling an ac company.
    friends are friends.

    Sorry, I'm not following you.


    I guess what I'm asking is will a properly installed AC system sweat all over the place in high ambient high humidity conditions?


    Also, can a new direct vent system be routed to the existing holes in the side of my house? The dumb asses that sided the place J channeled around the vent piping so I was hoping to terminate the vent in the same place.

    [Edited by billb7581 on 07-19-2005 at 07:36 PM]

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Cincinnati
    Posts
    7,977
    If you have uninsulated metal ducts then yes it will sweat to high heaven until the a/c removes the humidity.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Portage
    Posts
    909
    what is the wet blub/dew point of area in question?
    I don’t always drink beer, but when I do I prefer Dos-Equis. I am the most interesting man in the world. Stay thirsty my friends.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    287
    Originally posted by mattm
    If you have uninsulated metal ducts then yes it will sweat to high heaven until the a/c removes the humidity.
    Thank you. The main trunk leaving the top of the airhandler is in fact uninsulated. Since it's an upflow, it runs up tight to the ceiling and the return and supply run right next to each other. Short of disassembling everything I don't believe there is any way to insulate it completely.

    Anyhow thanks for answering the question. My kids were running around being a general pain in the ass the whole time this guy was there and I didn't get a chance to pick his brain as much as I wanted to.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    287
    Originally posted by 1972torino
    what is the wet blub/dew point of area in question?

    Uhhhhhhhhh I'll have to pick up a thermometer and some muslin I guess. I have no idea.


    Running the dehumidifier seems to have made the room hotter, but the sweating has become far less profuse.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Tyler TX
    Posts
    676
    Typically an AC system does not need a break and should not get one till it has done its job.
    HVAC Contractor, Tyler Texas.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Suppy NC
    Posts
    4,516
    yes even a new system will sweat the same. all you are doing is replacing the the furnace, coil, and condenser and lineset. the duct work is still the same and is what is sweating more than likely. your best bet is the have all the duct work sealed and insulated. this way controled inviorment or not the duct will not sweat. you can put a pan under the unit if you like but it should be raised at least an inch of the floor so air can get under it and dry out any moisture. this way it wont rush so easly
    since you seem to think the unit cannot keep up have your hvac friend do a load calculation and install the correct size unit. if there is any thing that you know is wrong with the way the unit heats or cools your house talk to him about it so he can see if any thing can be done to retifi your problems. even tho you are installing a new system unless the curent problems are taking into acount and rectified you will still have them

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    287
    I'm ready to cut line with this whole thing come early spring. I just want to get it done right.

    Would putting a louvered door back in help anything?

    Oh sorry didnt see your response there, tinknocker.


    That's half the problem with this unit, it's sitting right on the floor so it's not really drying out. A new legit installation would or rather should be raised up off the floor you say?

    [Edited by billb7581 on 07-19-2005 at 08:45 PM]

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    287
    I mean I keep the blinds drawn, the house is 1960's not terribly tight construction ( I have insulated the hell out of all the rooms I've redone) with vinyl tilt windows and a light colored roof with an enormous attic fan I recently installed when I re roofed and large vents at either end of the attic.

    I believe I should be seeing better performance than I am, but will have my friend run a load calc. Although a survey of neighbors homes with the exact same floor plan all seem to have 3 ton units (which is what my friend "ballparked" it at when he was there.


    Anyhow, thanks again for the responses guys. Now I know what kind of questions to ask and things to look for when getting this thing installed.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    287
    These climatic conditions are ridiculous and about as extreme as they get right now in this area. With 85 plus temps and 70 plus relative humidity for a good two weeks. THis is probably the worse case scenario factored in to the sizing of this system. After browsing around some older threads it looks like the system running all day could be normal, no?

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