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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Corpus Christi, TX
    Posts
    1,773

    Payne 4Ton Gas Furnace Horizontal

    Ok Tear it up...

    Payne 4ton Horizontal Gas Furnace Inclduing Duct work, and attic insulation...
    Attached Images Attached Images       

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    214
    I like those SS1 Drain Switches. These are a must on all split systems I install. I try to use them as the clean out tee for my trap. It works well either way.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    San Clemente, CA
    Posts
    1,220
    Is that metal tape on single wall vent fittings in the attic? Do you know this tape is not approved for this use. Anyway why would you tape a fitting that has a negative pressure? Also, our AHJ does not allow single wall venting in an attic, only B-vent.

    Our AHJ also requires a secondary 3/4” overflow drain line when equipment is above occupied "finished" space. The safety pan is optional depending on what the manufacturer requires and may be equipped with an overflow switch provided you ran a secondary drain line from the coil however, this may be ok with your local codes unless the manufacturer requires it.
    Horizontal drain line needs proper supports and slope (can not tell).

    Outside:
    Location of outdoor unit would never fly around here being it is set in front of utility co. electrical equipment that has a required unobstructed service area. The outdoor unit disconnect also has this same requirement at 24” wide x 30” deep.
    Routing of refrigeration lines into attic requires a sealed penetration at building entrance for deterring rodents from entering (may or may not be done can not tell) and foam is not an approved material one needs to use 1/4” mesh.
    A line set cover would have been a nice touch if you were proud of this installation but hey, I can’t see it from my house either.
    just a question, is this installation being inspected? Why would you post this installation on wall of pride?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    La Honda, CA
    Posts
    83

    good job

    Nice clean job. However probably a good idea to have some non-combustable material in front of the furnace as per manufacturers specs.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    La Honda, CA
    Posts
    83

    negative pressure?

    Quote Originally Posted by JKopp View Post
    Is that metal tape on single wall vent fittings in the attic? Do you know this tape is not approved for this use. Anyway why would you tape a fitting that has a negative pressure? Also, our AHJ does not allow single wall venting in an attic, only B-vent.

    Our AHJ also requires a secondary 3/4” overflow drain line when equipment is above occupied "finished" space. The safety pan is optional depending on what the manufacturer requires and may be equipped with an overflow switch provided you ran a secondary drain line from the coil however, this may be ok with your local codes unless the manufacturer requires it.
    Horizontal drain line needs proper supports and slope (can not tell).

    Outside:
    Location of outdoor unit would never fly around here being it is set in front of utility co. electrical equipment that has a required unobstructed service area. The outdoor unit disconnect also has this same requirement at 24” wide x 30” deep.
    Routing of refrigeration lines into attic requires a sealed penetration at building entrance for deterring rodents from entering (may or may not be done can not tell) and foam is not an approved material one needs to use 1/4” mesh.
    A line set cover would have been a nice touch if you were proud of this installation but hey, I can’t see it from my house either.
    just a question, is this installation being inspected? Why would you post this installation on wall of pride?

    The flue is not under negative pressure, the heat exchanger maybe but not the flue.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    San Clemente, CA
    Posts
    1,220
    Quote Originally Posted by heatsolutions View Post
    The flue is not under negative pressure, the heat exchanger maybe but not the flue.
    Are you kidding? Go back to school or better yet study this attached material, you may learn a few things, this is on page 14.

    "Category I fan-assisted appliances are designed to operate
    with a non-positive vent pressure and with a flue loss of not less
    than 17%."

    I am saying "Negative pressure". This is another way of saying "non-positive vent pressure". This is provided one installed the minimum required 6' run of properly sized vertical vent pipe.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    La Honda, CA
    Posts
    83

    Thanks for the info

    Quote Originally Posted by JKopp View Post
    Are you kidding? Go back to school or better yet study this attached material, you may learn a few things, this is on page 14.

    "Category I fan-assisted appliances are designed to operate
    with a non-positive vent pressure and with a flue loss of not less
    than 17%."

    I am saying "Negative pressure". This is another way of saying "non-positive vent pressure". This is provided one installed the minimum required 6' run of properly sized vertical vent pipe.
    Thanks for the info. I'm no scholar, just a guy who scrapes his knuckles for a living but it seems to me that if we checked the pressure at where the UL tape is on this install it would be positive not negative (especially on startup)...

    But as a side note how about some positive feedback for the guy who posted pix of a job he was proud of. You can tell him what you would have done different or what would or wouldn't fly in your area but a little positive feedback couldn't hurt, right?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    San Clemente, CA
    Posts
    1,220
    Sorry it is not more positive as our inspectors around here would be all over this job for the reasons mentioned. It does look to be air tight ductwork.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Corpus Christi, TX
    Posts
    1,773
    It is B-Vent Double Wall, The float switch is tied into the secondary spot, the aux pan has a 3/4 sec drain, and a float switch as well.

    I post these here so yalll can bust my chops, they have been inspected. Im looking to improve based on yalls observations, but you crazy if Im gonna throw it in wall of shame....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    San Clemente, CA
    Posts
    1,220
    Quote Originally Posted by TCreacy View Post
    It is B-Vent Double Wall, The float switch is tied into the secondary spot, the aux pan has a 3/4 sec drain, and a float switch as well.

    I post these here so yalll can bust my chops, they have been inspected. Im looking to improve based on yalls observations, but you crazy if Im gonna throw it in wall of shame....
    Glad it's b-vent, just ditch the tape next time. If you want to improve, as a personal preference I would have elevated the 80% AFUE FAU more so that one can easily get to the bottom connections to tape them up easily and this also elevates the condensate drains for a better pitch. I designed these as they have a built in FAU pitch for better condensate drainage (for the evap coil).




  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Cal
    Posts
    1,596
    Having the condenser in front of the meter and disco will get you dinged sooner or later and the taped flue joints aren't required by the mfg or code as far as I know.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    246
    I always hang the unit with threaded rod and unistrut.

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