Payne 4Ton Gas Furnace Horizontal

[TCreacy]

Ok Tear it up...

Payne 4ton Horizontal Gas Furnace Inclduing Duct work, and attic insulation...

[AC Shop]

I like those SS1 Drain Switches. These are a must on all split systems I install. I try to use them as the clean out tee for my trap. It works well either way.

[JKopp]

Is that metal tape on single wall vent fittings in the attic? Do you know this tape is not approved for this use. Anyway why would you tape a fitting that has a negative pressure? Also, our AHJ does not allow single wall venting in an attic, only B-vent.

Our AHJ also requires a secondary 3/4” overflow drain line when equipment is above occupied "finished" space. The safety pan is optional depending on what the manufacturer requires and may be equipped with an overflow switch provided you ran a secondary drain line from the coil however, this may be ok with your local codes unless the manufacturer requires it.
Horizontal drain line needs proper supports and slope (can not tell).

Outside:
Location of outdoor unit would never fly around here being it is set in front of utility co. electrical equipment that has a required unobstructed service area. The outdoor unit disconnect also has this same requirement at 24” wide x 30” deep.
Routing of refrigeration lines into attic requires a sealed penetration at building entrance for deterring rodents from entering (may or may not be done can not tell) and foam is not an approved material one needs to use 1/4” mesh.
A line set cover would have been a nice touch if you were proud of this installation but hey, I can’t see it from my house either.
just a question, is this installation being inspected? Why would you post this installation on wall of pride?

[heatsolutions]

Nice clean job. However probably a good idea to have some non-combustable material in front of the furnace as per manufacturers specs.

[heatsolutions]

Is that metal tape on single wall vent fittings in the attic? Do you know this tape is not approved for this use. Anyway why would you tape a fitting that has a negative pressure? Also, our AHJ does not allow single wall venting in an attic, only B-vent.

Our AHJ also requires a secondary 3/4” overflow drain line when equipment is above occupied "finished" space. The safety pan is optional depending on what the manufacturer requires and may be equipped with an overflow switch provided you ran a secondary drain line from the coil however, this may be ok with your local codes unless the manufacturer requires it.
Horizontal drain line needs proper supports and slope (can not tell).

Outside:
Location of outdoor unit would never fly around here being it is set in front of utility co. electrical equipment that has a required unobstructed service area. The outdoor unit disconnect also has this same requirement at 24” wide x 30” deep.
Routing of refrigeration lines into attic requires a sealed penetration at building entrance for deterring rodents from entering (may or may not be done can not tell) and foam is not an approved material one needs to use 1/4” mesh.
A line set cover would have been a nice touch if you were proud of this installation but hey, I can’t see it from my house either.
just a question, is this installation being inspected? Why would you post this installation on wall of pride?

The flue is not under negative pressure, the heat exchanger maybe but not the flue.

[JKopp]

The flue is not under negative pressure, the heat exchanger maybe but not the flue.

Are you kidding? Go back to school or better yet study this attached material, you may learn a few things, this is on page 14.

"Category I fan-assisted appliances are designed to operate
with a non-positive vent pressure and with a flue loss of not less
than 17%."

I am saying "Negative pressure". This is another way of saying "non-positive vent pressure". This is provided one installed the minimum required 6' run of properly sized vertical vent pipe.

[heatsolutions]

Are you kidding? Go back to school or better yet study this attached material, you may learn a few things, this is on page 14.

"Category I fan-assisted appliances are designed to operate
with a non-positive vent pressure and with a flue loss of not less
than 17%."

I am saying "Negative pressure". This is another way of saying "non-positive vent pressure". This is provided one installed the minimum required 6' run of properly sized vertical vent pipe.

Thanks for the info. I'm no scholar, just a guy who scrapes his knuckles for a living but it seems to me that if we checked the pressure at where the UL tape is on this install it would be positive not negative (especially on startup)...

But as a side note how about some positive feedback for the guy who posted pix of a job he was proud of. You can tell him what you would have done different or what would or wouldn't fly in your area but a little positive feedback couldn't hurt, right?

[JKopp]

Sorry it is not more positive as our inspectors around here would be all over this job for the reasons mentioned. It does look to be air tight ductwork.

[seatonheating]

Sorry it is not more positive as our inspectors around here would be all over this job for the reasons mentioned. It does look to be air tight ductwork.

I agree. That is mediocre HVAC installation at best. Not worthy of the wall of pride.

Not bashing, just stating my opinion. Tons of things wrong and ugly with this install.

[hearthman]

Induced draft is just that--induced. When the unit fires, the inducer draws air through the combustion chamber at a low positive pressure in the vent until draft is established. Typically, the pressure is positive in the vent for less than one minute, which is well within the 10 minutes allowed by ANSI. If this appliance was rated positive vent pressure, it would not be listed CAT I for B-vent.

Foil tape is listed under UL 181 for ducts--not venting. It is technically considered a combustible material and has no place on venting pipe. If the vent is sized and configured properly, there would be no need to 'seal' the venting anyway.

B-vent required in unconditioned spaces per the code. Note, your AHJ is not allowed to minimize the code. Whether he calls it out or not, it is still required and you are still held responsible for it.
HTH,

[TCreacy]

It is B-Vent Double Wall, The float switch is tied into the secondary spot, the aux pan has a 3/4 sec drain, and a float switch as well.

I post these here so yalll can bust my chops, they have been inspected. Im looking to improve based on yalls observations, but you crazy if Im gonna throw it in wall of shame....

[JKopp]

It is B-Vent Double Wall, The float switch is tied into the secondary spot, the aux pan has a 3/4 sec drain, and a float switch as well.

I post these here so yalll can bust my chops, they have been inspected. Im looking to improve based on yalls observations, but you crazy if Im gonna throw it in wall of shame....

Glad it's b-vent, just ditch the tape next time. If you want to improve, as a personal preference I would have elevated the 80% AFUE FAU more so that one can easily get to the bottom connections to tape them up easily and this also elevates the condensate drains for a better pitch. I designed these as they have a built in FAU pitch for better condensate drainage (for the evap coil).

[btuhack]

Having the condenser in front of the meter and disco will get you dinged sooner or later and the taped flue joints aren't required by the mfg or code as far as I know.