I always cut them off at the A/H and sweat them in there. The condensers I don't mind so much, but pulling a wall mount down to fix a flare is retarded. The flare fittings are different though and should be done with an R-410A designed flaring kit.
I have done alot of these and they fill a gap for alot of customers.
But why in the #### do they put those dang flair fittings on them, is it because no one knows how to sweat lines anymore?? Maybe I need a different flairing tool?? I had to flair one today 3 times to get the proper crush and seal.I hate those things
I always cut them off at the A/H and sweat them in there. The condensers I don't mind so much, but pulling a wall mount down to fix a flare is retarded. The flare fittings are different though and should be done with an R-410A designed flaring kit.
Get the Ridgid 45* flare tool model# 458
Never saw a r410a flare kit?
or just use the flares that come with the lineset. Fujitsu/mitubishi linesets come with them, and your not supposed to use any flare other than factory flare.
"Better tell the sandman to stay away, because we're gonna be workin on this one all night."
"Dude, you need more than 2 wires to a condenser to run a 2 stage heatpump."
"Just get it done son."
Dad adjusted
I was told at a Mitsubishi school that they use flares because there is no filter dryer (no room due to how it's piped inside the unit) and by not cutting and brazing you eliminate possible chips and burs and there will be no copper oxides from brazing without nitrogen.
We used Samsung and Sanyo at first but have since switched to Comfort
Star which I actually prefer. Never used a factory line set from anyone. Most of our installs aren't as simple as "going through the wall" so they aren't very practical for us. I saw some neoprene flare gaskets the other day at Johnstone which may reduce your nuisance leaks but I haven't used them yet.
i'm sure you are cutting your pipe squarely and cleanly like your suppose to.
Trade secret: Put a little oil on the flare contacts before joining together. dont go crazy with it, just a little vac oil on the brass fitting. I do this with all my mini-splits and gas lines and i have never ever had a flare leak.
of course it doesnt work with dirty burred flares.
or...WHY CANT THEY MAKE THE LOWER FRONT COVER removable to acess
drain line...ya gotta pull the freaking thing off the wall to do it..
a freaking design issue...
Japan has been building these things for years before they were known in the US. Since most everything in Japan is flamable the Japanese try not to use fire in any method outside of cooking or heating where the flame can be controlled.
So on mechanical things they use flare nuts in place of brazing to eliminate the torch flame.
The new R410a flare nuts used on these things typically will only work with the new R410a flare nut kit. And you have to use the flare nuts on the mini split and not on the line sets.
I tried to not buy one of those R410a flare nut kits to save money on my last 3 mini-split installs. I already have two or three flare kits and who needs another tool. I've installed systems before with my old flare kit and never had a problem.
The counter guy put one on the and said I'd better buy it and use it. No way. A few days later I found that over half of my flares leaked under the pressure test. So I had to return to get the kid and undo a lot of my work to reflare every flair nut. No leaks from that point on. And the drop of vauccum pump oil is wise advice.
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers it can bribe the public with the public's own money.
- Alexis de Toqueville, 1835
I have flared the pipe many times with the same old flaring. I use spittle leaklock. Never had a problem.you need to ream the pipe carefully.
i cut all the flares off and braze. Mitsubishi wants a 45o flare. once and a while we get a leaker at condeser flare connection, thats operator error. I love these mini-splits. If they made a flush mount for residential, i wouldnt install ductwork ever again! I put a Mitsubishi Hyper heat unit in my 24 x24 garage.heats it to 70 at 5o. sweet.
"Better tell the sandman to stay away, because we're gonna be workin on this one all night."
"Dude, you need more than 2 wires to a condenser to run a 2 stage heatpump."
"Just get it done son."
Dad adjusted
Agreed that the evaporators are a PITA but the flare's are not a problem.
Start with a good flare tool (I use and like YJ 60278), a clean cut, deburr ends, clean & oil cone, oil back side of flare, use flair wrenches (I'm not good about that) you will have perfect flairs that are leak free. Don't forget that damn nut first and don't overtorque it.
My distrubutor says there is a recommended flare nut torque wrench now on the market for these units but he could not find any in stock. I'm told they are now easy to find under the Fuj accessories or something like that.
Next system I'm doing I'm going to get that torque wrench.
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers it can bribe the public with the public's own money.
- Alexis de Toqueville, 1835
We've had leaks too. right now I'm the only one at co that owns the special flare kit. skipped getting the torque wrench since thought could get crows feet and use my torque wrench at home.
seems the flare nuts I took w/ me to get right size didn't fit any of the crows feet at store. Another $80 for kit just to torque flare nuts on minisplits?
Col 3:23
questions asked, answers received, ignorance abated