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  1. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    603
    Another ductwork job next week possibly. Have to go measure it all up tomorrow. I thoroughly enjoy getting rid of ductboard. Been over a year since I have used ductboard for anything. Only reason we did was to match the unit sitting next to it. They wanted them to look the same, or as close as we could come to the same.

    Custom fittings is the way to go. Got a zoned system to finish tomorrow possibly. Try and snap some pics.

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia PA
    Posts
    2,190

    Anyone who takes pride in their work can use any material and do a good job

    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyed View Post
    Another ductwork job next week possibly. Have to go measure it all up tomorrow. I thoroughly enjoy getting rid of ductboard. Been over a year since I have used ductboard for anything. Only reason we did was to match the unit sitting next to it. They wanted them to look the same, or as close as we could come to the same.

    Custom fittings is the way to go. Got a zoned system to finish tomorrow possibly. Try and snap some pics.
    With your attention to detail you could make the material yourself, provide a sealed-insulated system that has lower leakage and better acoustics for half the cost
    Try to keep an open mind
    You have got to learn from other people's mistakes! Because God knows you don't live long enough to make them all yourself !!!!!!!!

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    603
    ?? I can order the metal insulated, or insulate it before I put it together. In this situation, leakage would be pointless. All the air is going in the same room...

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    6,290
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyed View Post
    ?? I can order the metal insulated, or insulate it before I put it together. In this situation, leakage would be pointless. All the air is going in the same room...
    Sorry jimmyed but i just got to ask one question ?
    I have to turn a supply plenum 90* on a RTU. 14" x 28"
    What would be the best way to do this ?
    Thanks in advance
    VTP

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    603
    Wouldn't be difficult. Just have a transition made. Just have to know what your off sets would be, as in flat on the back and left side or just keep everything centered.
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  6. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    6,290
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyed View Post
    Wouldn't be difficult. Just have a transition made. Just have to know what your off sets would be, as in flat on the back and left side or just keep everything centered.
    Thank you jimmyed,
    That is what I had visualized in my head. What would be the shortest I could make the length ?

  7. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    603
    I don't know that, longer it is the less turbulence. That may be a question to ask the metal shop..

  8. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    6,290


    Let us know how your spiral job goes. I have one coming up as well.
    Two 5 ton Trane RTU's with open ceiling.

  9. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Litchfield,Il
    Posts
    565
    Real nice Jimmy! I myself love doing ductwork and wish I had the shop to make the 90 deg sweeps . Keep the trade up my friend!
    If your not getting the results you desire then change. People change from either desperation or inspiration.

  10. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    chicago land
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyed View Post
    I don't know that, longer it is the less turbulence. That may be a question to ask the metal shop..
    you want to keep the angle of the transition no more than a 45 deg. 30 is better and for an offset you want to keep the length of set over the amount of offset and side of the offset

  11. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    3,824
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyed View Post
    Wouldn't be difficult. Just have a transition made. Just have to know what your off sets would be, as in flat on the back and left side or just keep everything centered.
    Thats a reverse transition.
    Always here

  12. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    3,824
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyed View Post
    ridged s lock is what I know it as...

    Guy that makes our metal, I swear his 26ga is closer to 24ga and his 24 is closer to 20ga metal. The shop that made the metal also made the s'lock(as we call it) Trust me it is plenty stiff. The last ridged S we got sucks compared to the old sealtite stuff we used to get.
    it's not, it's 26 gauge. Next job you should use, standing slip or bar slip (same)
    Last edited by energy star; 07-05-2011 at 09:03 PM.
    Always here

  13. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Winston-Salem NC
    Posts
    1,133
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyed View Post
    Metal shop does it on the computer. Spits the metal out, add cross brakes,pittsburghs, snap lock, drive hooks, whatever it needs. Use a slip roll to form the radius pieces. Assemble and done. They can make about anything.

    Got an overhead spiral duct job this week. Never used the stuff before.
    Spiral is pretty simple to install, but hard to do it right.
    It has to be level and straight and the joints must be evenly matched, and if you cut it, it has to be an even cut. Just takes a 1/4" off at the start, to look back and see how you have meandered 6" or more off straight at the end of a run.

    Around here, I think that is why spiral is liked, but usually ends up getting painted black to match the ceilings in commercial buildings where it is exposed. Because while it looks good when right, every mistake is visible from the floor below.

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