Best way to charge or adjust split system.

[Jultzya]

Did you get it?


[Edited by jultzya on 07-05-2005 at 10:01 PM]

[pliscon]

Ok I re-checked it was 45 inside and 43 outside. Maybe I didnt have probe on tightly before.

[Jultzya]

That's more like the correct temps... but is telling you of the same problem!

[pliscon]

Yeah I sent something did you get it?

[Shophound]

Originally posted by pliscon
The little overflow or balancing line on the Txv is what I am talking about being brazed.

That "balancing line" on a TXV is actually called an equalizing line. It is so the power head on the TXV will read the pressure of the evaporator at the evap outlet vs. what the pressure would be if the power head used the pressure at the evap inlet. This accounts for pressure drop through the evap coil and also allows the pressure being exerted on the power head to correspond with the superheat at the evap outlet.

By all means braze this line into place using material you're most comfy with. Better yet, use a tee with the proper size fittings. Sure beats punching or drilling a hole in the suction line, hoping to God any debris doesn't enter the system, and then hoping to God even more you don't burn the equalizer line in two when you braze it up. Oh yeah, and flow nitrogen when you braze.

Sorry about prodiyer going south on you. I kinda suspected with a handle like "prodiyer" and from his posts said we weren't dealing with a seasoned pro.

Also, I think the other guys are trying to say that if you're getting a lower suction line temp at the compressor than at the evap, you might have a suction line restriction. Rare, but it can happen. I would double check how I take the readings and ensure there's not something you're overlooking. If you're just two degrees off with the suction line being the one that is warmer, we're back to an overcharge situation.

[Jultzya]

No not yet... try again.

[prodiyer]

I know carrier on their high efficency units have required subcooling right on the nameplate at the outdoor unit. How do you determine what the required subcooling should be?

[Jultzya]

Originally posted by prodiyer
I know carrier on their high efficency units have required subcooling right on the nameplate at the outdoor unit. How do you determine what the required subcooling should be?

First you come here and try to act like a professional...

And now, you are asking basic refrigeration questions!

This can only get better...LOL

[Jultzya]

prodiyer...

Yesterday, he was a "pro"...

Today, he's just a "diy'er"

LMAO

[acnewbie]

Are you adding freon for the lineset length over 15' plus freon for the evaporator coil? Doesn't the condenser come precharged for 15' of lineset and the coil?. In other words if you just had exactly 15' of lineset, you would not need to add any freon. That is the way I was taught.

[pliscon]

I add freon for the Linset over the 15'. As for the coil I used a 5 ton coil and a 4 ton condenser. The larger coil requires additional freon.

This is straight out of the manual tells you correct piston oriface and additional charge for each combination of Coil/Condenser

[Jultzya]

Evac and let the charge go... NO MATTER WHAT!
Then set the charge by SH or SC.

Never add refrigerant till you know (for sure) it's low on charge!

BTW, how is your unit running tonight? Do you have any new data for us to look at?

[prodiyer]

First of all jultz, you said required subcooling is never found on the nameplate and you are wrong! I asked how do you determine what the required subcooling should be? If this is basic then you shouldnt have a problem answering it.